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Bad sensor or bad ECU?

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mike96

15+ Year Contributor
1,010
22
May 6, 2008
Phoenix, Arizona
Just got my car running again after a full rebuild and now the check engine light keeps coming on. my car came with a palm and a cable so i have been using obdgauge to check and clear the code and this is what i have so far. first code was a "1400", clear code then two days later "engine not getting warm enough to enter close loop" sorry i don't remember the code for that one, cleared code next day "505", clear then next day "1400", would not clear, disconnected battery to do something else, code cleared two days later code "505 and 170". so i started looking into the wiring to see if ma-by there was a short some where but so far nothing major, just a couple of connectors that have very small amounts of bare wire showing right at the back of the connector.

so my question is could the ECU be going bad or do i just have one or two bad senors? i know for a fact that the ISC motor is bad so that causes the 505, but the random codes are just throwing me for loops.

any ideas as to what it might be would help

Thanks
 
so far i have only gotten that once but i did have a question regarding where the needle should sit. any way that was once and it was about a week and a half ago and i haven't seen it again.
 
....could be knock sensor doing its thing to you as well ... do you also have a temp sensor on the EGR valve, or did you have that all removed?

don't really see how the knock sensor can cause codes like i am having. a temp sensor on the EGR valve??? not on this car, don't even see one on the wiring diagram.
 
my 97 eclipse gs-t will not start

when i go to turn my car on in the morning it fires right up 2 seconds later dies then when i try to start just keeps cranking and the it kinda comes back to life and it dies again

it just keeps cranking my fuel pump is working i am getting spark idk what is wrong please help

thank you in advance
 
Sorry to hijack but I have similar problems though not as severe. Installed new pump/FPR the car now takes a couple tries to start. I read the solenoid between the mani vacuum to FPR is supposed to keep fuel pressure up to prevent bogging during start. With my new FPR hooked back up to this solenoid it still bogs initially. Once started its fine. More annoying than problematic.
 
Thanx alot (live4my4g63) i got the ignition coil and my transistor out and the connector for the transistor was a lil loose il get that shecked out i will keep you posted thanx alot for your help.




210 gst power
 
Hey live4my4g63 do you think its a good idea to by a new ignition transistor because today i connected the ignition transistor and i made sure that it was in all the way and i went to start my car just keeps cranking and no start? do you think that the ignition transistor went out?


Thanx alot live4my4g63 in advance
 
thanx luv2rallye but i dont have a fuel pressure regulator stock fuel system setup.

any idea to what it might be i checked every thing and i ordered a new ignition power transistor.

thanx in advance
 
my care did the same thing it was mentioned already but i put in a new ect sensor and it fires rite up.
 
I got the new Ignition Power Transistor and put it in hooked every thing up and still no start getting power to one of the terminals on the ignition coil but no spark ........any idea

Thanx in advance
 
When i got back home from work today me and my dad wanted to see if we could start the car the car is in the air my dad goes underneath the car and pries on the harmonic balancer from frame to the balancer and the crankshaft moved about and 1/8 of an inch both ways and i think this may cause my car not to start because the crankshaft position sensor is hitting the teeth on the crank it self

Do DSM cars require the input from the crank sensor to fire of the coils?

is this some thing i should be worried about?


some one please help thanx in advance
 
... the crankshaft moved about and 1/8 of an inch both ways and i think this may cause my car not to start because the crankshaft position sensor is hitting the teeth on the crank it self

Do DSM cars require the input from the crank sensor to fire of the coils?

is this some thing i should be worried about?
For the 2g, absolutely.

Sorry to tell you this but with that much crank travel you better check for crankwalk: Check your FWD for crankwalk
 
Thanx alot that would explain alot of things and i heard fast tiking by the timing belt when the clutch is depressed.

that was before the car broke down

isnt the maximum tolerance .007 ?
 
Thanx alot that would explain alot of things and i heard fast tiking by the timing belt when the clutch is depressed.

that was before the car broke down

isnt the maximum tolerance .007 ?

Damn.. Sorry to say, but you have just experienced crankwalk... 6 bolt swap ftw!!!!!
 
Yeah i was thinking of doing that before i did the engine rebuild a year ago but i decided to rebuild it since it had a chiped valve before i got the car.

I read about crank walk before but i would never think it would happen to freshly built engine?

but now that i know what is wrong with the car i can fix and hopefully i would not have to rebuild the whole bottom end.

So the car is not starting because the crnk moved so far out of spec it screwed up the crank sensor?

thanx alot for all of your help in advance
 
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