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Nervous about fuel and 50trm install, help?

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eclipse93b

20+ Year Contributor
129
0
Oct 7, 2002
Edina, Minnesota
Okay, so I am installing my TO4E 50trim as we speak, though, I am somewhat nervous about the entire deal because I absolutely need this car (dd) and I dont want anything bad to happen from not enough fuel, to much boost, etc. not to mention this is my 3rd DSM but I have never done an extensive upgrade like this.

I have a SAFCII with Evo MR 560cc denso injectors (I've heard they flow ~600cc's). I also have a 190 Walbro (rewired) with a new fuel filter and ... (I know, I know) a shitty B&M FPR. I only plan to initially run 16-18psi no more. I will be having the Talon dyno'd/wideband tuned within the next 3 weeks so until then I plan on taking it really light on boost. Btw I have the pocketlogger software and it was on a palm m100 though the batteries died and the computer I had a serial port on took a crap so I dont have a logger at this moment. Is it possible to use a serial to usb adapter to reload the software to the palm?

Thanks for (hopefully) reassurance.

Kyle
 
I would just keep the boost down. Until your tune. It would suck if you just got that and something messed up. If you had a wideband on your car you would know. FYI A Wideband is the Best investment for your car.
 
Kyle I have a similar setup with you. I have PTE 50 trim with t04e compressor. I use to run it with just a walboro 190 and STOCK injectors. I kept it at 15lbs, but never had a problem. Hit fuel cut a few times when it was cold OMG

I then got my denso 660s and obviously never had a problem since.

I even have the B&M fpr MODIFIER that you have which only raises fuel pressure. I had used it in conjunction with the fuel pump only before the injectors when I had a big16g. I ran it to 20+ lbs, obviously not recommended, but indeed worked. Now with the injectors its set back to stock fuel pressure.
 
Red, Thank you very much for your reassurance with a very similar setup, it is much appreciated.

DSMmatt, like I said I plan on using a wideband to tune, though, I wont be able to utilize that setup for the next few weeks, so I have to use what means are available.

Thanks for the fast replies, the setup will be done by around 6 so I'll post back the results.
 
Okay, so I have an update, I didn't get it finished last night because we ran into excessive rust among bolts breaking and such. So, after all of that drama I have another dilema, I bought this...

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(with the red filter instead of the black) from forced performance and I cant seem to figure out how the thing fits on... I know, newb. I know the 90* should screw into the filter housing ....shoot! There is no 90* fitting, just a banjo connection... Do I need to run to Napa/autozone to pick up a 90* fitting like this...

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INSTEAD of the banjo so I can screw the 90* into the filter housing and run the flare to the turbo?? Anybody?
 

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Okay so after a few weeks of hell and not having access to the talon for that long due to incorrect parts, rust, and other issues I just got the talon back/running tonight. There is a LARGE problem that I really need help with and I have searched for similar issues in the problem diagnosis forum, but to no avail I have come up empty handed.

My buddy who was doing the install noticed while putting the radiator back in that there was a wiring harness that was sticking out of the loom under the radiator. The wires were slightly exposed to the elements so he decided to wrap them in electrical tape and put them back in the loom... Well it turns out he didn't disconnect the battery and when he was wrapping the wires two of them sparked and the headlights turned on and stayed on (even when the switch was off), the horn also turned on and stayed on. He checked the relays and fuses (quickly) and he even changed the relay for the lights and it didnt seem to do anything. After pulling the fuses for each respectively they both went off. However, when I picked up the car this afternoon he said the issues were fixed so I tested the lights and they worked fine, then I tested the horn and the horn stayed on continuously and the lights turned on and stayed on as well. The car drives great however... SAFC dash lights everything worked great for the most part. Then when I got home (because I had to have the car for work) I went to lock the doors with my fob and nothing happened. I checked the batteries and they were fine, so I tried to lock the doors via the switch and they didnt work at all, I have to manually lock each door. The odd thing is that the windows work (along with the sunroof). After that I decided to check what else was not working right and I know they all must be connected. The HVAC system doesnt work, the radio doesnt work (ie no power)... I need to get this problem solved sooner rather than later and I dont want the car to be gone for another month in the process. If anybody could give me an idea as to what could be causing the issue with all of these components (recap)

- horn stays on continously (only when hitting the button)
- headlights stay on (regardless of switch position) only after the horn is going, though if they are on and you turn the switch off the taillights turn off but the headlights still stay on...
- HVAC doesnt work
- Radio doesnt work
- Key fob doesnt work
- interior map lights dont work
- door switches (to turn on map light/door ajar) dont work
- lock switch on doors dont work (though the windows do)

Any help is needed and appreciated.

Kyle

BTW the car really pulls with this new setup. Untuned the car reads ~2550hz on the SAFCII with a -26% correction at full boost, this is about 1100hz more than on the T25
 
Kdub, the system is already installed so we already have that issue taken care of. I now have this other residual issue that I posted right before yours that is of concern at this time. Any help on this electrical issue?
 
To OP:

I'll be in the same boat as you as soon as I get all my parts in. Hopefully my install goes smooth.

Good luck with your build.
 
Kdub, the system is already installed so we already have that issue taken care of. I now have this other residual issue that I posted right before yours that is of concern at this time. Any help on this electrical issue?

I wish i knew but im terrible with electrical issues.
 
The electrical issue has been resolved, it turned out to be a blown fusable link. I had checked that before and it did look fine at the time, however, upon rechecking each of the fuses I had noticed that it was blown at the very base of the fuse on the inside of the plastic (non transparent) cap which made it especially difficult to see.

As for the install and an update on my setup, I must say that even though it was a horrible install experience (due to rust and other issues) the power was very much worth it. I am currently running 21lbs on the internal gate (minimum boost I can run due to the actuator) with zero boost creep/spike/leaks and am also not hitting fuel cut.

On the T25 at 14lbs I was seeing about 14xx-1500 hz of air on the SAFCII and am now seeing full spool at 3800rpm and about 24xx-25xx hz of airflow... converting this I have approximated ~600CFM which I estimate to be around 420bhp. This is on a completely untuned setup. I am going to have it wideband tuned within the month and I am shooting for 350-400 AWHP. Here is a pic of the current install, I will upload a few more later in the week, and I will update again after the tune along with my dyno numbers.

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Reminds me of my setup, although I wish I had that pretty FP exhaust mani. :) You will eventually need to upgrade that intake pipe, the restriction will start to show itself once you start pushing past 21psi (which is also the exact boost I'm running, directly off the wastegate).

And how did you manage to keep your stock fan?! Mine was close, but I didn't want to risk the motor hitting it when it shifts around during accel/decel so I switched to slim. You might want to keep an eye on it to make sure the wastegate isn't hitting.
 
The stock fan we had to trim the housing due to clearance issues with the wastegate. As for the completely untuned comment... I have a logger and an SAFCII and it is set at -26 correction for my Evo 560's. I have a minimal tune across the board and I do watch my timing on the logger though it is very basic in contrast to what I am going to have for tuning when I get my wideband in and most likely DSMlink... and fully dyno'd and adjusted. I hope that clarifies the prior confusion.
 
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