Walbro 190lph Installation 190 Install ( pre rewire )

[Freerevving]

Earlier today I finished installing my 190lph Walbro...

but I planned ahead for a relay... On the housing, I machined the epoxy from the positive lead. Then, I drilled a hole for the positive wire off the pump. I stuck the wire through, and using a toothpick, I jb-welded the hole very well. BTW I let it set 22 hours before installation

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I also went a step further and drilled another hole, just so I'd have some extra slack

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BTW the twist-on connector makes better contact than a butt connector.. the way I have it twisted on (requires pliers), the threads grind the copper strands into each other.... this also allows me to solder in the relay, later on.

What a lot of people don't realize is that a connector/ connection is a power drop.... Although you may not see but .1 volts difference, the amperage is greatly affected.

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Now instead of 4 connections, there are only 2 with the current setup. With the relay, there will be only 6 high current connections between the battery and the pump (counting 2 for the fuse and 2 for the relay)
Not counting the fuse and relay, it will be only 2 connections between the battery and pump

 

[JDMath]

newbie question here... where the pump is located???

 

[93_tsi_fwd]

newbie question here... where the pump is located???

inside the fuel tank.

 

[Essential_DSM]

newbie question here... where the pump is located???

The fuel pump is located in the trunk where I have circled in black. But inside the fuel tank.

 

[93_tsi_fwd]

The fwd is different. Its not in the trunk like the AWD.

 

[Freerevving]

1g FWD it's located on the side of the tank facing the back (underneath the car).

 

[JDMath]

1g FWD it's located on the side of the tank facing the back (underneath the car).

ok thanks thats why i need to know , so its a harder job to change than a awd and a 2g??

 

[Freerevving]

Well... it's a little harder. You have to get under the car and you have less elbow room

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Sorry they only thing I see in your picture is an orange wire nut. Solder and heat shrink that thing man!! You won't ever have to worry about it coming loose... EVER!!! Unless the wire breaks.

Oh, not to bring you down from your bubble or anything but the connector doesn't make a difference. All the black and white wire does is give a signal to the relay to turn on. So that power loss doesn't matter. Then you take a direct line from the battery to the relay then to the pump from the relay soldered to your red wire. No power drop.

 

[Freerevving]

Sorry they only thing I see in your picture is an orange wire nut. Solder and heat shrink that thing man!! You won't ever have to worry about it coming loose... EVER!!! Unless the wire breaks.

Oh, not to bring you down from your bubble or anything but the connector doesn't make a difference. All the black and white wire does is give a signal to the relay to turn on. So that power loss doesn't matter. Then you take a direct line from the battery to the relay then to the pump from the relay soldered to your red wire. No power drop.

I'm sorry to point out that you're wrong...

that black/white wire is giving direct power to the fuel pump.

It's possible that you missed the point. The reason that connector is there is so that I can eventually solder in a wire off a relay... which I won't be ready to do until I get some other things in order. For now, the wire is hooked up like that because there is no relay.

You'd be suprised how much better the contact is compared to a butt connector. I twist them on with a pair of pliers and there is no way it's coming loose or going to short. I've done so much electrical work to cars over the years and the wire nut (as ghetto as it looks) is a very dependable connector if sized and used right. I have also done quite a few relayed systems (pumps, headlights, aux lights, starters) so it's nothing new to me.

99% of the time, I solder wires unless they're too close to the exhauast manifold, but I sometimes use a wire nut temporarily.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

I do understand that you are currently using the black/white wire to power the pump just like stock. But, you said in the future you were going to use a relay. In the future that black/white wire will be used just to turn the relay on. In the future you will either A) directly solder the wires to the relay (highly doubt since it would make replacing a bad relay a royal pain in the ass!!) or B) Solder a spade connector to the wire and connect that to the relay. Why not save yourself some time and solder a female spade connector to your black/white wire and a male one to your red wire? If you are worried about voltage drop then you can always find audio grade gold plated terminals. Then when you are ready for that relay you can just unplug it that connection, plug the signal (black/white) into the relay, wire up the ground for the relay, the power from the battery, and then an extension wire from the relay to your male spade terminal, and mount the relay really nice on the driver's side metal bracketry. Then your done.

Then again I guess we have different philosophies on how to wire things.

BTW, I like how the top of your sending unit isn't all rusted up like most of them I see.

 

[Freerevving]

Why not save yourself some time and solder a female spade connector to your black/white wire and a male one to your red wire?

because 1. I always use a standard relay harness (which has clip-in spade connectors already inside it) and I use solder on all the wires... 2. the fuel pump wire will also be female (with a built-in clip)... and 3. there's no need to jump the gun. This will do just fine until then. I like having a temporary connector until I'm ready to solder it in permanently.

relay harness available for $2.50 at electronics outlets:

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I usually remove the two power wire connectors from the harness and carefully disect them, so that I can directly solder thicker wires to those two connectors.

BTW, I like how the top of your sending unit isn't all rusted up like most of them I see.

thanks! I sold my perfect running 325hp Talon because it was hacked in so many ways (by previous owners) and it bothered me how many things I wanted to fix... I purchased this car because under the paint it's very very nice. It had mechanical issues, which are less of a problem to me, but I fixed them.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Cool, I like what I see now...

 

[thewombis]

Hrm.. please dear God tell me that wire nut (ya know the ones they use one 120 lines in a HOUSE) is temporary.. no matter what you say, pliers, twisted on tight, whatever.. That is a terrible hack way to finish a nice install. Heat shrink and soldier is the only way to go.. If the connection is outside, or in the engine bay, I even take the extra step to cover the connection in dielectric grease, then put the shrink over that to keep moisture out. Please fix that and dont put another hacked DSM on the road..

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

^^^^ Ummm... did you read the whole thread. I already questioned him on that and got my ass handed to me!! Although Freerevving, more info about what you were doing in the future could have helped your original post. Around here we expect the worst of hack jobs.

 

[Freerevving]

Hrm.. please dear God tell me that wire nut (ya know the ones they use one 120 lines in a HOUSE) is temporary..

Although Freerevving, more info about what you were doing in the future could have helped your original post. Around here we expect the worst of hack jobs.

maybe I wasn't very clear. Let's see how many times I mentioned it...

Very first post:

Earlier today I finished installing my 190lph Walbro...

but I planned ahead for a relay...

BTW the twist-on connector makes better contact than a butt connector.. the way I have it twisted on (requires pliers), the threads grind the copper strands into each other.... this also allows me to solder in the relay, later on.

and all the others

The reason that connector is there is so that I can eventually solder in a wire off a relay... which I won't be ready to do until I get some other things in order.

99% of the time, I solder wires unless they're too close to the exhauast manifold, but I sometimes use a wire nut temporarily.

because 1. I always use a standard relay harness (which has clip-in spade connectors already inside it) and I use solder on all the wires... 2. the fuel pump wire will also be female (with a built-in clip)... and 3. there's no need to jump the gun. This will do just fine until then. I like having a temporary connector until I'm ready to solder it in permanently.


I usually remove the two power wire connectors from the harness and carefully disect them, so that I can directly solder thicker wires to those two connectors.

how many times do I have to say it?

The reason I didn't just wire in the relay right then and there (believe me, it was tempting) is because I'm a little bit of a perfectionist... the relay will probably be mounted at the fuse panel with the other relays and fuses, and I need to be sure about the final configuration before I go "hacking" things up... I just have to intercept the fuel pump 12v power source at the fuse panel and mount the harness OEM-style (that means with the other fuses)

So be frickin patient. This thread will eventually show an under-dash install of the relay, but I have other things going on right now

--Mac

^^^^ Ummm... did you read the whole thread. I already questioned him on that and got my ass handed to me!!

haha .... not sure about handing it to you, but thank you for being supportive

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

I think you misinterpreted my last statement. I was just trying to say that you could have included more info on your full intentions in your first post. That's why when we see a post about someone doing an FP install and see a wire nut without any new and different material noted. First thing that comes to mind is "hack job." With the only promising info as being that there will be a relay soldered in later on. It leaves a lot left to be desired. Once I got the full info I backed off and agreed that it was a nice project.

Maybe a course outline such as:

I did this.
I plan to do this.
This is how I'm going to do it.
This is why.
These are the parts I'm using.

I'm not trying to argue I'm just saying your Original Post could offer more info on your project.

 

[Freerevving]

nobody would have said anything if I used a butt connector... and I explained why I didn't in the first post.... Thank you for being civil

You know, come to think of it... I think I'm going to skip the relay. Partly because I don't want to hack it up (adding shit, that doesn't come with the car, to something crucial) but mostly because the gain is too small for what I'm trying to acheive. I might change my mind if the noise drives me nuts. So looks like I'll be soldering it in how it is, after all.