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Do you use a 7-bolt engine?

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interex

15+ Year Contributor
1,039
1
Apr 28, 2008
Centralia, Illinois
This thread is only seeking those who have built 7 bolt engines. I dont care weather it is a 1G or 2G 7 bolt engine. I just want to make sure everyone knows that this thread isnt about a debate on weather a 6 bolt is the best and that all 7 bolts crankwalk. Dont even go there with the "crankwalk" crap.

Have YOU built, or bought a 7 bolt custom/race engine, and how does it run today.

Lets hear it.
 
I rebuilt my 7bolt engine that spun a rod bearing. I put a new crankshaft, pistons, rods, oil pump and rings, in it and I have about 6,000 miles on the block right now after a year.
 
I built my 7 bolt 2,000 miles ago and have no problems with the bottom end. I had a head stud come loose but thats the only real hardware problem. One issue I'm having though is keeping my oil pressure down because I plugged the squirters. I'm planning on re-porting my oil relief valve to fix that.

Other than the few minor issues it runs amazingly, had a little bit of piston slap but nothing out of the ordinary. It runs much differently than my stock block even on low boost. I love my 7 bolt setup and would definitely build another if I had the chance.
 
I am building a 7 bolt stroker with eagle 102mm forged crank, Arias Stroker .040 9.1:1 pistons, eagle h-beam rods, .040 7 bolt block, Garrett GT37R turbo, 1000cc injectors, complete engine stud kit, high flow fuel rail, custom made (for me) SMIM... list goes on.
 
It would also be worth noting which year block you used on your build, as they are not all the same.


I, too, stuck with a 7-bolt after hooking the stock rods. Mine is a '99 block. Decked and bored .020" over. Unfortunately, I've only put about 2 miles on it so far since it was rebuilt 12 months ago, so I don't have any 'durability' info to share thus far.
 
I'm having a hard time finding out what year the block is! I have the serial number that is stamped into the block on the smooth area where it says 4g63 but no one can tell me the year of the block based on it. It reads. 4G63 / XJ1852
 
I have a built 99 7 bolt with Eagle rods, Wiseco 9:1 pistons. .020 over, balanced to 8k RPM, decked/hot tanked, ARP everything, ACL bearings. Looks hopeful to say the least :cool: can't wait to run it.
 
I found out that my 1995 GSX had a remanufactured (junkyard) engine when it was sold to me used. With this engine, the head gasket failed all the time due to grooves in the head and the block. My 7-bolt engine rebuild has 1800 miles on it. My profile shows all the new parts of my build (in brief, 9:1 wiseco pistons, eagle rods, balance shafts intact, bc head parts). The rebuild runs great. Now, my turbo, my injectors, and my s-afcII are my limiting factors (future changes).
 
After 183,000 reliable miles on on my 98 TSI I succumbed to the ModMe bug and put the Talon through a stroker upgrade. All mods were selected for low end/mid range torque and the HP goal was only 320 AWHP to keep it reliable.

Now with the 2.3L stroker and high stall converter it gets under the green light as expected by an old phart who grew up driving V8's. I'm happy with the car; between me and my wife that's one of us.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have a 95 talon tsi 7bolt with 143k on it. it runs ok but its beat. since i am new to these cars i have a question about the 7bolts. i was told that they cant handle more then 400hp. becuase the blocks are junk. is this true? and would a stock rebuild make my motor more reliable ? not try to jack the thread just wondering what is so bad about the 7bolts besides crankwalk? ty
 
Some might already know... I'm building a 7bolt 4g64 engine. The block is from either a 98, or 99, Galant, not too sure which because the receipt says 98, the ad for the block when I bought it said 99.

Anyway, Wiseco .020 (87mm), 4g64 crank, eagle rods, SBR Stage 6 1G Head, Manley valve train, crower 280s, holset hx50, yada yada.
 
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