2 questions. Lifters and Head Torque

[DanThMan1983]

My question is I have the revised lifters but still get the tick is that normal?

Also a friend of mine was telling me after I break in my engine I should pop the valve cover and torque the head studs to 100 ft lbs? I torqued them to mitsu spec.

 

[DSMunknown]

With revised lifters you should no longer experience ticking. Are you positive you have the revised lifters installed? How exactly did you install them?

 

[haioku-rocket]

Generally not needed to re-torque headstuds. However its always safe insurance. Ohh and miles/break in has nothing to do with when you should do it. It has to do with heat cylcing.

As far as torque goes. If you use oil to lubricate your headstuds I would not torque them above 90 foot pounds. That should be plenty. I know evil eagle torques his 90-95 and he runs 40PSI+. If you overtorque too much it can damage the head.

 

[MidShipCivic]

Actually it's been found that bolts stretch differently when torqued so they must be loosed up and torqued in steps (ie 20-40-60-80 ft lbs)

Do you even know what head studs he is using ? I wouldn't compare setups there is a big difference in power being made and you don't have to heat cycle as far as I understand.

 

[DanThMan1983]

With revised lifters you should no longer experience ticking. Are you positive you have the revised lifters installed? How exactly did you install them?

Well I just popped out the old ones and dropped the new ones in. I later found that there is a bleed procedure for the lifters before installing them which I did not do. is that my problem?

I have ARP head studs just so you guys know. This is the 3rd time the head has been on and hopefully the last... in a good way.

 

[rarson]

ARPs should not be torqued to anything but ARP specs. And make sure you use the lubricant that ARP says to use.

I think you already know the gist of this, but if you torque using a lubricant, the clamping force will be increased with less torque. So if you are using ARP lube, it's important to make sure you're torquing to the right specs. ARP lube is going to require different torque values than other lube.

 

[DSMunknown]

Well I just popped out the old ones and dropped the new ones in. I later found that there is a bleed procedure for the lifters before installing them which I did not do. is that my problem?

I definitely recommend bleeding the new lash adjusters before installing them. Did you even collapse them before installing them, or did you just take them out of the box and plug them in? I would recommend reading through the threads below for some extra help.


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...g-bout-new-lifters-parts-compatibility-q.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/265060-how-replace-lash-adjusters-lifters.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/264533-lifter-replacement-qs-those-who-have-done.html

 

[1992awdlaser]

Actually it's been found that bolts stretch differently when torqued so they must be loosed up and torqued in steps (ie 20-40-60-80 ft lbs)

Do you even know what head studs he is using ? I wouldn't compare setups there is a big difference in power being made and you don't have to heat cycle as far as I understand.

They don't get loosened up when re-torqued. If you do that (many don't) it is only done on the initial install of the studs.

Heat cycles are what loosens the studs and what makes retorqueing a good idea. I generally do it after 100 miles because this will give me plenty of heat cycles. And I will only hit boost during the first heat cycle. Retorque when the engine cools down. Set ups don't matter just do what ARP says or slightly over.

 

[DanThMan1983]

I definitely recommend bleeding the new lash adjusters before installing them. Did you even collapse them before installing them, or did you just take them out of the box and plug them in? I would recommend reading through the threads below for some extra help.


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...g-bout-new-lifters-parts-compatibility-q.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/265060-how-replace-lash-adjusters-lifters.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/264533-lifter-replacement-qs-those-who-have-done.html

I did not collapse them or anything. I understand how to do it now because I installed them on my buddies 2g and I took better attention to the instructions on this website about how to install them. Maybe thats why mine are ticking??

ARPs should not be torqued to anything but ARP specs. And make sure you use the lubricant that ARP says to use.

I think you already know the gist of this, but if you torque using a lubricant, the clamping force will be increased with less torque. So if you are using ARP lube, it's important to make sure you're torquing to the right specs. ARP lube is going to require different torque values than other lube.

So what are ARPs specs?

 

[1992awdlaser]

So what are ARPs specs?

I am pretty sure it is 85 if you use the arp moly lube and 95 if you use oil.

 

[DSMunknown]

I did not collapse them or anything. I understand how to do it now because I installed them on my buddies 2g and I took better attention to the instructions on this website about how to install them. Maybe thats why mine are ticking??

Take them out (all of them), clean them out properly,prep them properly, install them properly, and see if the ticking persists. If it does, replace the problem children and go on with your day.

Next time take the effort to know what you're doing before jumping in the pool. Will save you loads of trouble.

 

[DanThMan1983]

Take them out (all of them), clean them out properly,prep them properly, install them properly, and see if the ticking persists. If it does, replace the problem children and go on with your day.

Next time take the effort to know what you're doing before jumping in the pool. Will save you loads of trouble.

Well when I originally made a thread on lifter tick, everyone was like "yeah get the 3g lifters and throw those in that will fix the noise" nobody every told me about the bleed procedure. Oh well it could be worse.

 

[DSMunknown]

Well when I originally made a thread on lifter tick, everyone was like "yeah get the 3g lifters and throw those in that will fix the noise" nobody every told me about the bleed procedure. Oh well it could be worse.

Well, I quickly skimmed through both of your threads linked below that discussed lash adjusters (aka lifters).


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/240751-knock-knock-whos-there.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/242696-revised-lifters.html


As far as I read, no one just told you to install them and your problem would be solved. In the second link post #16 actually hints at this process. If you were unsure of this process it was your job to ask (although, a solid post would give you a couple of links to help you out).

Follow some of my suggestions and you should be okay. If you have any more concerns, come on back for more.

 

[91PRdsm]

I have the APR's and I torque them to 85 with normal oil it was like a month ago should I re-torque to 95 I'm having some white smoke problems could it be lack of torque?