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Newbie Forum Beginner/newbie/general DSM questions. first mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. New Members must limit their tech posts to this section.

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Old 05-11-2008, 02:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Boost is there but not workin

I punch the gas and the gauge reads 0 untill about 4000RPM then it starts to build boost but none of it is applied. I have done boost leaks before and after this problem and they have not changed. Could my MAF be bad or something worse?
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Old 05-11-2008, 02:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
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are you reading the stock gauge? or do you have an aftermarket gauge?
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Old 05-11-2008, 02:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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well I bet your waste gate is stuck. Also the stock gauge is a mathematical calc. not an actual reading.
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Old 05-11-2008, 02:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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after market gauge and I have tried to even unplug the wastegate
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Old 05-11-2008, 02:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Well if it is stuck open it wouldn't matter if you unplugged it.
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Old 05-11-2008, 02:50 PM   #6 (permalink)
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you're right. it is stuck open a little bit.
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Old 05-11-2008, 02:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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what would I do about the boost being there but not applied
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Old 05-11-2008, 03:12 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Get your wastegate to seal
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Old 05-11-2008, 03:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Its not that I just rigged it so it stayed shut and it still did the same thing
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Old 05-11-2008, 03:34 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Start looking over your turbo. Do another BLT. There's gotta be somethin leaking. Check your compressor housing, and all that good stuff
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Old 05-11-2008, 03:53 PM   #11 (permalink)
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yes there is leaks but they werent effecting the car for the last month

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Old 05-11-2008, 06:28 PM   #12 (permalink)
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so anyone have an answer
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Old 05-11-2008, 07:55 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Fix the leaks


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Old 05-11-2008, 08:09 PM   #14 (permalink)
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bump
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Old 05-11-2008, 09:31 PM   #15 (permalink)
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So your saying after a months time the leaks are finally catching up with everything else? That makes no sense. I was doing another BLT and put it to 20 psi and about 30seconds later the tester blew clean off the compressor housing inlet. The only 2 places its leaking is the throttle body shaft and the compressor housing where that snap ring goes
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Old 05-11-2008, 09:39 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I know I have a boost leak and as soon as it stops raining here, I'll fix it. But I'm having the same sort of problem. I hit the gas, but the boost doesn't throw me back in the seat like it used to. I used a logger and noticed that I'm reading wayyyy more air with the MAF than I used to, that was my give away.

Are you using any type of logger?


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Old 05-11-2008, 09:40 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruisintalonawd View Post
So your saying after a months time the leaks are finally catching up with everything else? That makes no sense. I was doing another BLT and put it to 20 psi and about 30seconds later the tester blew clean off the compressor housing inlet. The only 2 places its leaking is the throttle body shaft and the compressor housing where that snap ring goes
Find out why your WG wasn't staying closed and fix it.

Check your turbo for excessive shaft play.

When you applied 20psi, you stopped applying pressure and it held for 30 seconds and then popped? Or did you hold 20psi from a compressor with the regulator set to 20psi and it popped after 30 seconds? You need to apply 20psi and then stop. Then you see how fast the boost gauge pressure drops from 20psi. My car drops 1psi every 4-5 seconds from 20psi initial pressure. If you leak down too fast, fix the leaks. VFAQ has the how-to for fixing TB shaft seals. If your compressor o-ring is leaking badly, I don't know if you have to fully rebuild it or just replace the o-ring (ask someone or search).

Do you have a logger? If so, anything look weird (knock, low O2v, etc)? If not, they're cheap for you lucky 1g owners.


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Old 05-11-2008, 11:00 PM   #18 (permalink)
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You could have a plugged cat, take off your downpipe and drive around the block see if it changes. If not put back together. It seems like a turbo leak problem but if you have minimal leakage you won't notice it much and thats true. You MAFS could be a problem.Check your airfilter, stuff like that.
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Old 05-12-2008, 05:57 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I have the palm M100 that it is actually reading only about 1100 whatever at 5000 rpm. The turbo has minimal shaft play and spins freely. I don't have a cat and I've tried driving around without the air filter and that didn't help. I'm not try not trying to me ignorant or anything but I don't think its the boost leaks because they have been the for a while with the car running good
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Old 05-12-2008, 09:08 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruisintalonawd View Post
I have the palm M100 that it is actually reading only about 1100 whatever at 5000 rpm. The turbo has minimal shaft play and spins freely. I don't have a cat and I've tried driving around without the air filter and that didn't help. I'm not try not trying to me ignorant or anything but I don't think its the boost leaks because they have been the for a while with the car running good
1100 whatever? Please explain what value that is. A log would be nice.

Please explain what you did for your BLT. I'm not trying to offend you, but folks often misunderstand the test procedure and I just wanna make sure you're doing it right. Also, new boost leaks can develop, so if you haven't tested (correctly) since the problems started, I'd re-test.

Did you figure out why the WG wasn't staying closed?

Are there any diagnostic trouble codes stored?


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Old 05-12-2008, 09:49 AM   #21 (permalink)
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By 1100 I'm guessing he means Hz.
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Old 05-12-2008, 10:02 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Possibly a terrible exhaust leak before the turbo? I had a blown turbo gasket and it seemed to not want to build boost at all.
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