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Old 04-20-2008, 02:19 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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2G-specific

PO300 code, car undriveable, need advice


I have been dealing with this problem now for a little over 2 months. We have had a thread going on this same thing as well for a while, but i still can't figure out what has gone wrong on my gst. It also hasn't been driveably since this all happened. 2 months ago when all this started i was sitting in the car with it idling. I was messing around with the BC and as soon as i put the car in reverse and started backing up the bottom fell out of it. It's kind of hard to explain the symptoms. The car now idles at 100 rpm's or less, but it will stay running, it will not die while idling or any other time. The engine also shakes horribly bad, like i've got 1 or 2 dead cylinders. After this happened i just shut the car back off. The next day i went back out and cranked it up and it was just fine. I drove it for 3 days with no problems at all. Then i was about 15 miles from home and cruising down the road and it started again. I barely made it back home. The car took forever to get to 60 mph. It will only rev up to about 3k, and it's really slow about getting to that. Also the boost will only go up to 5-6 psi.

I ran a diagnostic check on the car and it threw a PO300B code. It also gave me a PO141B and a P1104 code. The 141 code says 02 sensor bank 1 - S2- Htr. malfunction. I assumed this was from eliminating the cat with my downpipe. The 1104 is a manufacturer controlled fuel/air metering. I looked that one up though and it said turbocharger wastegate solenoid malfunction. I dont know if that could cause the PO300 or not. Also, the scanner said this too. Fuel system Status - Bank 1 - OPDC, Bank 2 - Disabled. I dont know if that has anything to do with this problem either.

These are the things i have done so far, and these were all brand new oem mitsubishi parts. CAS, ignition coil pack, NGK BPR6ES plugs, NGK plug wires, coolant temp. sensor and i was told an alternator could cause this so i put a new alternator on as well. I have also tested the IAC motor and TPS, both were good. I just pulled the battery out of the car to make sure i hadn't broken any wires or ground anything accidentally, couldn't find anything. What do i do next guys, i really need this car back going. 2 months is a long time to just have the thing sitting here doing nothing. I'm open to any and all suggestions if it will just get it fixed. thanks a lot.

Blake


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Old 04-20-2008, 02:29 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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So on cold start it runs fine, but when its warm it idles low?
Do you have any surging idle?
Have you done a boost leak test? I don't know what BC means sorry,


Its good that you got some new parts, I can't believe you bought a new OEM CAS sheesh!



For your OEM boost controller malfunction, is the bcs hooked up electrically and the wastegate hose?
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Old 04-20-2008, 04:51 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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So on cold start it runs fine, but when its warm it idles low?
Do you have any surging idle?
Have you done a boost leak test? I don't know what BC means sorry,


Its good that you got some new parts, I can't believe you bought a new OEM CAS sheesh!



For your OEM boost controller malfunction, is the bcs hooked up electrically and the wastegate hose?
No, i never said anything about ambient air temperature making any difference. since the last time this happened 2 months ago the car runs on 2 cylinders at all times. And no, no idle surge. Boost leak test was done in the first run of diagnosis. BC means boost controller. The CAS really wasn't anywhere near as high as i thought it would be. it was 65 bucks, i also bought a new CPS and knock sensor. they were all under 80 each. I just haven't installed the CPS and knock sensor yet.

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Old 04-20-2008, 08:28 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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Hey Blake! [I finally know your name now haha]

First of all, thanks for posting and sharing in my thread. It's so crazy how you've described your situation - the 100 rpm bogging, 3k, 5-6psi, 2-3 cylinders - all the same EXACT symptoms I was going through! We've replaced pretty much the same parts, except I actually had some wire damage. That's my only suggestion; to check out the wires underneath the battery. Just as another member had posted [voodoogsx], the wires rubbed into the battery mount long enough to cut and touch.

I was reading one of your other threads about holding boost. It made me wonder if a bad turbo with extreme shaft play could be causing my current problem w/ the 3k+ acceleration and tugging/choking.


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Old 04-21-2008, 05:35 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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i went back to some old threads and looked up what voodoogsx was talking about on his po300. he ended up having a wire rubbed down and grounded itself underneath the battery on the main harness. that is the exact thing i did yesterday. i pulled the battery out and i looked and felt of every damn wire in there, nothing. what made me think it could be a wire grounding out there is right before all this happened i took the battery out. and i put a new fuel filter on and replaced the fuel line from the fuel filter up to the fuel rail with SS braided -6an line. but i couldn't find anything anywhere.

bboyalan, did the ecu swap help your situation at all?? i've just gotta find something else that can cause this that i can check.

also, just thought i would mention, when this po300 started it was intermittent. My air/fuel ratio is running really lean, dont really know why though. it only started doing this after i got the po300. i'm to the point i dont really care if i've got a serious internal problem, i just want to know what the actual cause of this problem is so i can fix it. I just called the local mechanic and i'm gonna try to get my car to his shop in the next couple days, so maybe he'll be able to figure something out on it.

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Old 04-21-2008, 08:59 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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Hey. Just to throw in my 2 cents. The ECU swap did not help me P0300. But after I swapped the ECU I got a new error P1105 (Fuel Pressure Solenoid malfunction). My car is also running lean so it makes me think it could be a fuel issue. Anyways, new FP solenoid is on the way. When I install it I'll let you all know what effect it had.

Tom


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Old 04-21-2008, 09:26 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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Have you checked vacuum connections to the Fuel Pressure Regulator? This could be a cause of some of your symptoms.

Also, the PTM (Power Transistor Module/Unit). Failure of this could cause the engine to run on two cylinders. The method of testing this is in the Hayne's manual.

The only thing that I can think of that would cause all of the aforementioned symptoms would be a stuck EGR valve. This would explain the poor idle quality and inability to build significant boost pressure.

If all else fails, try eliminating your boost controller. Just run a hose straight from the compressor outlet nipple to the wastegate. You could just have a massive boost leak somewhere in that area of the system.

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Old 04-21-2008, 11:24 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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Have you checked vacuum connections to the Fuel Pressure Regulator? This could be a cause of some of your symptoms.

Also, the PTM (Power Transistor Module/Unit). Failure of this could cause the engine to run on two cylinders. The method of testing this is in the Hayne's manual.

The only thing that I can think of that would cause all of the aforementioned symptoms would be a stuck EGR valve. This would explain the poor idle quality and inability to build significant boost pressure.

If all else fails, try eliminating your boost controller. Just run a hose straight from the compressor outlet nipple to the wastegate. You could just have a massive boost leak somewhere in that area of the system.
all vaccuum connections and transistor are good, already checked. i was wondering if the egr system could cause any of this. i haven't checked any of it though. how do i check the egr valve?? remember that my problem was at first intermittent, so it couldn't be a vaccuum hose popped off or anything. i also had already thought about just eliminating the boost controller to see if it might be a problem there. i will check that tonight. thanks for posting.

Tom, i was wondering about that on the ecu. i thought the way you and bboyalan talked it hadn't made much of a difference. also, i had thought about maybe some type of a mechanical fuel problem causing this. is it possible the pump of regulator could go down, or at least partially go out and the car still run?? however extremely shitty?? i tested all of the injectors yesterday, they all tested 3.2- 3.5 ohms, so the problem is not there.

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Old 04-21-2008, 03:58 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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Hey Blake!

Yes!! The ECU for my situation in particular DID help tremendously. PRIOR to the swap, my car would barely idle at 600 for its highest and still had the terrible timing that showed in a low, low, low shift point of 1500. Also, I haven't had a CEL for 1 week and 3 days. I want to check my EGR system as well, so if anyone could chime in on this that would be great!


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Old 04-21-2008, 06:27 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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maybe i do need an ecu. with the exception of just swapping it out, is there any way to test the ecu to find out if it's functioning properly??

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Old 04-21-2008, 07:51 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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It is possible that the valve was slowly binding due to carbon build up, eventually causing it to fail in the open position. This is only a theory though.

There's probably a write-up on how to check the EGR, but this is my method.

This is for a 1g, but I'm sure it's comparable. I'm pretty sure that the manifold pressure sensor on a 2g plays a part in the EGR operation, so I can't help in that regard, but I think that the mechanics are pretty much the same.
First, locate the vacuum hose that the top nipple on the EGR valve is attached to. Then apply vacuum to that hose with the car running. If the engine's idle drops signifcantly or stalls then the EGR is working properly.

Just to be absolutely sure that the valve isn't stuck you can remove it from the intake manifold and clean it thoroughly with break cleaner and test its operation by again applying vacuum to that top nipple. Reinstall with a new gasket or RTV and torque to spec.

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Old 04-21-2008, 08:28 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #12 (permalink)
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Ok just out of curiosity (and I don't know for sure because I haven't changed mine yet but...) did you put the Fuel filter in the right direction? I've heard on some of them they are directional and the fuel will only flow at the correct rate in one direction and be seriously restricted in the opposite direction. I know it may sound stupid but if all this started after you changed it , I'd at least double check....
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Old 04-21-2008, 08:44 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #13 (permalink)
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Ok just out of curiosity (and I don't know for sure because I haven't changed mine yet but...) did you put the Fuel filter in the right direction? I've heard on some of them they are directional and the fuel will only flow at the correct rate in one direction and be seriously restricted in the opposite direction. I know it may sound stupid but if all this started after you changed it , I'd at least double check....
The car threw the po300 code approximately 3 weeks after the fuel filter/ SS -6 AN fuel feed line install. That has nothing to do with this po300 problem, that's one thing i'm actually sure of. I mean no offense, and you'll see what I'm talking about when you change yours, anyone that knows anything at all about mechanic's work is a complete dumb ass if they put the fuel filter on a 2G on upside down. Like I said you will see what I mean when you change yours. Now on my chevrolet truck, it's very easy to put it on backwards. Both ends look identical. Thanks for the post though, I appreciate everyone's input. Didn't I just post on a thread of yours about kind of the same problem??

As for the EGR valve test, I would be better off taking it off the IM. Since the car has a really hard time running, plus it's running extremely lean. I will just take it off the car and test it. I will post back results tomorrow if I can get it done then.

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Old 04-22-2008, 05:49 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #14 (permalink)
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Does anyone know how to get the EGR valve off the car?? I need to pull it to be able to check whether the valve is stuck open from carbon deposits or not.

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Old 04-22-2008, 06:03 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #15 (permalink)
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I have the same symptoms you guys.. i have change just about everything. coils packs, injectors, iac, ecu, wires, plug, tps and alternator, check valve springs, timming and still no cigar. let me know if ya find the fix.

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Old 04-22-2008, 07:12 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #16 (permalink)
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Next thing on my list is Fuel Pressure Solenoid (I have a P1105 code) and then EGR block off. I'll post back if I get any results.


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Old 04-23-2008, 04:50 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #17 (permalink)
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Next thing on my list is Fuel Pressure Solenoid (I have a P1105 code) and then EGR block off. I'll post back if I get any results.
I was thinking the same thing. I think I'm gonna just go over Taboo's diagram and eliminate all the emissions. If the EGR is causing some of this I can just eliminate it all. I'm gonna try to take my boost controller off and put it back to stock today if i get a chance. This started while I was messing with my boost controller so maybe it has something to do with it. doubtful though, I'll post back with results.

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Old 04-23-2008, 03:23 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #18 (permalink)
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Ok, I now know why I am getting at least one of the codes. The p1104, which is the turbocharger wastegate solenoid. Apparently when I installed my Greddy boost controller I for some odd reason took the BCS off the car.. I absolutely would have sworn that I left it there and plugged in. Anyways, I'm sure that's the reason that code is being thrown. I was going to bypass the boost controller this afternoon and see if that was possibly causing this problem. I guess I'm gonna have to get a BCS and put it on the car before I can fix this code. Does anybody know a way to test the boost control valve for a Greddy boost controller??

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Old 04-25-2008, 10:54 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #19 (permalink)
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What's the update on your situation? Also, I was thinking about your boost controller situation. Since you're not sure if your EBC is functioning properly and you don't have your BCS, have you considered momentarily connecting the wastegate's hose straight to the housing?


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Old 04-25-2008, 04:26 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #20 (permalink)
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What's the update on your situation? Also, I was thinking about your boost controller situation. Since you're not sure if your EBC is functioning properly and you don't have your BCS, have you considered momentarily connecting the wastegate's hose straight to the housing?
Well, no I haven't considered that. Would that work though?? I've got a 97 ECU and BCS on the way right now. Should have it all here and in the car by middle of next week. Like Tom and I were talking about on your thread, I noticed this when the PO300 first showed up. For example, I went out and cranked the car today and sat in it for maybe, 2-3 minutes. When I shut it off and went up to look at something on the engine the exhaust manifold was red hot. Nothing else was, just the exh. mani. I already knew I was running extremely lean, my a/f guage tells me that. I just don't know what is causing it. Also, and I have no idea if this has anything to do with it, but before I the car started running like shit and the PO300 came up I was having some weird cooling issues. When driving at cruising speeds the water temps were normal. But when I would come to a stop or a slow roll the temps would plummet. I just assumed I had a thermostat stuck open, but before I could get it swapped out all this happened. Like I said, I have no idea if that has anything to do with this PO300 or not. What do you think?? I wonder if it's possible the fuel pump could start could be going out, but still pumping a little. That would make it run lean. It's something that's not letting the engine get enough fuel. I just don't know what that something is.

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