17psi on 16g actuator...coolant blowover?

[evo9mrtt]

I dont know why but my cars 16g actuator is making my car push 17psi+ at times. It holds true to 10/11psi until about 4800rpms then starts to creep up to 17/18 psi. I have no boost controller and i took the vacume lines off the stock bcs and just tied them together with a T. My friends have done this and their 16g's only would push 7psi after doing so. What could be causing this? I'v heard that when you do upgrades to the exhaust and intercooler and intake setup that this will raise you boost, but raise it to 17psi? It seems high. I do have the whole fuel system upgraded and have DSM link but still. Also my coolant keeps overfilling my catch tank and then flows out quite often. I just got home from work and looked to see if it still was doing so and it was almost a constant flow coming threw the overflow hose. It would stop at times and then start again. Then after the car turns off it lets out a good splash and my upper radiator hose feels like its full of air. I was told to replace the radiator cap and see what that did and to have my car compression tested to see if i have a blown head gasket. So i did and my cars compression was 135 acrossed the board and the cap didn't do anything. I also checked for coolant leaks and didnt find any. I'v done everything i can think of. Any ideas to what it could be?

 

[super97gst]

do you have a full exhaust?? sometimes a 3" exhaust without a large 02 sensor housing will cause small increments of boost creep in the high rpm range. the best remedy would be to just buy a 2.5" 02 sensor housing and some type of boost controller so you can get the boost exactly where you want it.

as for the coolant overflow, your compression looks good. so it's most likely not a headgasket. if it was you would usually see coolant in your oil, or vice versa. the problem could be in the radiator itself or possibly the water pump causing enough pressure to blowback. have you checked the water pump lately?? it wouldn't hurt to drain the coolant from your radiator and do a radiator flush, might as well install a new thermostat while you're at it. the thermostat wouldn't neccesarily cause the problem because even if the thermostat was stuck open or closed it shouldn't build up enough pressure to spray into the overflow constantly. is the car running high temps at all??

 

[JayRolla]

You have what is called boost creep, which happens to the crappy mitsu exhaust housing. The turbo needs to be ported correctly so more air reaches the wastegate flapper instead of just flowing right by it. Or since you had dsmlink you could just get the right fuel setup and you can run the 20psi and creep wont be an issue.

 

[evo9mrtt]

I do have a ported 2g o2 housing on the car and the exhaust is a full 3 inch. And i haven't checked my water pump at all. I did replace the t-stat not even a year ago. I have my temp setting on my dsm link to throw a check engin if the car gets to 216 degrees with a 10 degree offset so it would more likely be around 206 or so. the only time i get really weird temps is when im on the highway. It'll raise a little then go down sometimes, then others it will raise a lil and stay right above normal. Then after the times it stays on i will get off the highway and park and it will raise, but never more than 3/4 of the way. I do have a front mount on my car that is 33"x10.5"x 3.5" so it blocks off most of the radiator. To compensate, i wired my fans together so that they would both come on if it got to the temp when the fans come on. It's weird...but i wish i knew what was causing it

 

[evo9mrtt]

As for my fuel setup, i have PTE680cc injectors, a walbro 255 highpressure fuel pump, aeromotive FPR kit with guage, 6an stainless fuel feed and FPR lines, and i just replaced the fuel filter and got rid of my charcoal canister. I'm still in the process of dialing in my fuel injectors, and my global is set at -29 and my deadtime is at 300 right now. Its just hard to adjust cause my idle is fluctuating alot because my shaft seals on my TB are shot. New TB seals are on the way along with a new ISC.

 

[JayRolla]

Sweet, too bad you didnt have larger injectors, like 850cc' or larger because you could through some e85 in and running 24-26psi wont be an issue at all. But you need to port that turbo if you want it to stop creeping. The ported o2 housing and exhaust just makes it worse. Its causing all the air to bypass the wastegate flapper so you have no boost control.

 

[evo9mrtt]

Ya im actually in the market for some bigger injectors::900CC+:: so i can do e85 . As far as my turbo goes i know for a fact its not ported. Its a small 16'g that is quite old now so im going to replace it with a new turbo. I was thinkng about going with a PTE 50, 56, or 57 trim with a DNP manifold with a external gate setup. Either that or going with a FP3052, or 3065. I dunno yet though . Any ideas to what my cooling problem could be?

 

[JayRolla]

Nice, the pte's you mentioned are nothing compared to the FP3065. If you have the cash I would go with the 3065, dont even bother with the smaller one. If you dont have the cash and you go with a pte the 60-1 has the most flow with the stage 5 wheel, but spool like dogs.

 

[evo9mrtt]

Ya i'v heard that the spool isn't the best on PTE's but there nice turbos. I'm leaning more twards the 3065 because it will bolt right up to my 1g ported manifold and will be ready out of the gate with an external tial 44mm gate right on the exhaust housing of the turbo. So we will see. I have a 2g head in the works too that will have brian crower 272's, springs, and titanium retainers, with ferrera valves and new valve guides and valve seals and the whole bit. I'm just waiting for it to be completed. Im going to do a new timeing belt here soon too with a new tensioner, tensioner pully, water pump and ballance shaft eliminator kit. It should be pretty well said and done except the bottom end by mid june. We will see

 

[JayRolla]

You will be surprised how much a stock dsm bottom end can hold as long as you have a good tune. E85 helps with that.

 

[evo9mrtt]

Ya i'm only looking to push between 15psi low and 22psi max. Its my daily driver so i wanna keep it at a moderate level . I'm going to pay a good friend with alot of experience with dsm link to tune it cause i know a lil bit but i dont want to put this kind of money into it and blow it up or melt anything

 

[Hesh724]

Then Tread it and make it adjustable with a double female threaded union and two nuts on each end to lock it.i bet the Waste gate isn't opening far enough. or find a blown up CX Racing turbo and take the adjustable Actuator off it i have one on mine and being able to tweak the waste-gate is really nice. Just look at cx racings turbos and copy that. Good luck.

 

[JusMX141]

The link/photo you posted while grave-digging this thread explains how to increase boost level through an adjustable actuator arm. You cannot decrease boost level or add travel to the actuator by doing this mod, so it is not an effective way to prevent boost creep.

 

[Hesh724]

So your telling me, adjusting the actuator so that it opens the Waste gate earlier wont do anything? wont it open the gate further since it is Already opening earlier in the waste-gates range or movement. and also lengthening the rod itself via threads? Cause it Fixed MY boost creep really well!

Also i did not notice the date on that !!! haha