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I cant go into the tuning section, and I have a log.

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GsxEcutioner

15+ Year Contributor
1,549
5
Sep 3, 2007
San Bruno, California
Hi everyone, I have a log that I did in 3rd, I dont know if its enough to start but my safc was set to 0% in all. I tried to follow the step by step portion of basic tuning and I'm not to sure if I did it correct. Here are my numbers.
-Shane

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Mods are:

MBC. KnN Filter, Greddy SP2 Cat Back, 14b ported turbo, o2 housing and exhaust manifold both ported. upper intercooler piping, and 1g bov uncrushed,

SAFC with logger

Act 2100 Clutch kit
 
I am boosting 17psi, with no signs of fuel cut =/,

also since I said that all my % are 0, I just remembered I think the Ne-points? are 30% low and 83% high
 
I'd log O2v in another pull. Might also want to log a 12psi pull (if it doesn't creep) to get a sense of what a good AFR looks like on your O2 sensor.

I'm on a different computer or I'd look at the stock 2g timing map to see if you're pulling timing, but it looks like you might be a bit. The dip at 3700 looks like the normal drop when boost hits, but it dips back to 8° at 5k which might just be the weird shape of the timing map or might be knock. You've got pretty good airflow at 6k (over 2 g/rev), but I'm not sure where the stock injectors or FP start to peter out. The O2v would tell you more about that.
 
I'd log O2v in another pull. Might also want to log a 12psi pull (if it doesn't creep) to get a sense of what a good AFR looks like on your O2 sensor.

I'm on a different computer or I'd look at the stock 2g timing map to see if you're pulling timing, but it looks like you might be a bit. The dip at 3700 looks like the normal drop when boost hits, but it dips back to 8° at 5k which might just be the weird shape of the timing map or might be knock. You've got pretty good airflow at 6k (over 2 g/rev), but I'm not sure where the stock injectors or FP start to peter out. The O2v would tell you more about that.

the O2 volts is the "blue wire mod" correct? if so, I did not do this because people were saying something about it affecting signal? Well I can turn the boost down and the turbo boost 17 psi fine until redline it drops to 15. If I richen it up a bit, is it in the Lo Throttle or the High Throttle settings? Thanks
-Shane
 
the O2 volts is the "blue wire mod" correct? if so, I did not do this because people were saying something about it affecting signal? Well I can turn the boost down and the turbo boost 17 psi fine until redline it drops to 15. If I richen it up a bit, is it in the Lo Throttle or the High Throttle settings? Thanks
-Shane

I'm not an SAFC expert, so I don't know if installing SAFC alters the front O2v signal or not. If you have a logger, you can log front O2v. Find out if you have to read the voltage differently for an SAFC. It might be the same as stock. Anyway, if you can find out what a good O2v is (maybe running at 12psi either using your foot or via MBC), you can check that in a log and see if it dips at higher load.

Or you can go get a wideband O2 and do it right. :rocks:

There is a "Diffinitive Piggyback Tuning Guide" or something like that on this forum somewhere if you haven't already found it. It should give you some info on SAFC-based tuning, but I found it somewhat incomplete.
 
I'm not an SAFC expert, so I don't know if installing SAFC alters the front O2v signal or not. If you have a logger, you can log front O2v. Find out if you have to read the voltage differently for an SAFC. It might be the same as stock. Anyway, if you can find out what a good O2v is (maybe running at 12psi either using your foot or via MBC), you can check that in a log and see if it dips at higher load.

Or you can go get a wideband O2 and do it right. :rocks:

There is a "Diffinitive Piggyback Tuning Guide" or something like that on this forum somewhere if you haven't already found it. It should give you some info on SAFC-based tuning, but I found it somewhat incomplete.

Thanks for that, uhm yha I did use that guide and I used a couple others, but I decided I didnt really wanna mess with the tune until I am sure of what I am doing. I will do another pull soon at 12 psi.
 
Ok here it is at 13/14 psi, I shut down at 5500 because traffic was bad.

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It looks like you're lean. O2v vary from car to car and sensor to sensor, but you usually want to keep it in the 0.96v range. You're down at .88 and lower.

There is a 2g stock timing map Excel spreadsheet on the forum somewhere. I don't have time right now to find it and might not be able to take a look tonight much either. If you can find it, there's a way to find out if you're knocking. I'll try to explain as best I can.

The timing map in the spreadsheet has columns of data for different rpm. Each row of the table corresponds to a particular load. The values in each cell are the timing advance the ECU will use if there is no knock (or not much...I think it'll let you have 2 counts without pulling timing).

So what you have to do is pull data for one time in your log and convert it to a (rpm,load) pair of numbers. Then you look at the timing map at that rpm and load and look at the timing advance you logged versus the timing advance on the table. If you're lower than the table value, you're knocking.

So to do this, you have to convert one row of your log to (rpm,load). The spreadsheet has columns of RPM at 500rpm increments, so I usually pick off a log value near a 500rpm increment.

To convert to load, you take the rpm and airflow and do the following:
LOAD = AIRFLOW *454 / RPM. That gives you the mass of air that went into each cylinder to be burned. It is in units of grams per rev (g/rev).

As an example, I'll take your 4084rpm row in your log:
LOAD=(16.15)*(454)/(4084)=1.8g/rev

So you could look at the stock timing map at the 4000rpm column and the 1.8g/rev row (or whatever's closest) and get the stock timing advance. Your log shows 10° of timing advance. So if the spreadsheet shows 13° of timing, the ECU has pulled 3° of timing. If your coolant temperatures are too high or too low, or if your intake air temps are too high, the ECU will pull a degree for each across the board. When I log a pull, I first check out my coolant and IATs to make sure they're good. If my IATs are too high, I know that 1° of the timing difference is not due to knock, etc. I wish I remembered the threshold, but I think that coolant has to be higher than 210 and IAT has to be higer than 100 or something, but I'm not as sure about IAT (might be in the 90s).

Anyway, pick off a few log rows and convert them to load and you'll get the hang of it. If you can find the 2g timing map spreadsheet, stow it away somewhere and use it when you're looking at your logs. I wrote a program on a different computer that will crunch all the numbers for me and tell me how much timing was pulled, but I often do what I just described to get a quick idea of what my knock looks like.

Heh...I got through 99% of this post and got distracted for four hours.:coy:
 
KENAMOND!!! That is the best info I have yet to read on this forums. Care to spare more advice??

Also, OP, Can you log Throttle position so we can tell when you are going WOT

The log from 13/14 still seems like you are knocking alot. Do you have a wideband you are tuning off of?

Also, do not do the blue wire mod. It shortens your o2 sensors life and can screw up settings!

Where are your fuel trims set up??
 
KENAMOND!!! That is the best info I have yet to read on this forums. Care to spare more advice??

Also, OP, Can you log Throttle position so we can tell when you are going WOT

The log from 13/14 still seems like you are knocking alot. Do you have a wideband you are tuning off of?

Also, do not do the blue wire mod. It shortens your o2 sensors life and can screw up settings!

Where are your fuel trims set up??



Thank you all to everyones Response. Sorry for the late reply, just been busy with work. Im using a Logger btw. and fuel trims as on the SAFC? 30% low 83% high 0_o?
 
Here is the post that has the 2g fuel and timing map spreadsheets attached to it (Excel format):

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tun...termines-air-mass-flowrate.html#post151280193

EDIT: According to the stock map, you should be around 11° - maybe a bit lower - at 1.8g/rev and 4k rpm, so 10° doesn't look bad. But for your 5012rpm logged row, which is at about 2.0g/rev, you're at 10° and you should be between 11 and 12, so maybe that's knock, maybe that's coolant temps or IATs too high. The 5652rpm logged row, which is also at about 2.0g/rev, shows 11°, but you should be between 13 and 16, and again that might be knock, might be coolant/IATs too high. Usually, IAT and coolant temps don't change enough during a pull to go from "good" to "bad", but if you're close to the threshold it could be doing that. I'm guessing you've got a bit of knock at 5k and up. You need to get another pull logging airflow, timing, O2v and airflow again but get it to redline so you can look at the timing on the top end. Before you log the pull, monitor your coolant temp and IAT for a pull and see what they start at and end at and make a note of that. Then let the intercooler cool down and do another pull but log rpm, airflow, timing, and O2v. Post the log and let us know what the coolant and IAT info was.
 
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