The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Endless Burp...Blown HG?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

TB2K

15+ Year Contributor
65
0
Feb 20, 2008
Lake Station, Indiana
Ok I have a broken coolant overflow bottle, the lip on the bottle is melted away and I'm going tomorrow to the junk yard to find another one. Well I was losing coolant all the time and just thought it was coming out from under the cap. Then the car started to overheat really bad and as I thought the overflow bottle was empty I let it cool down and filled both the radiator and tank. it happined afew more times luckily I caught it everytime and pulled over, so I changed the radiator cap and tstat. Both of which looked bad the seal on the cap was all cracked and the tstat was white and powdery looking. And it happined again I noticed the "pressure release" cap the guy sold me wasn't letting the steam out of the hose on the coolant overflow bottle. So I've replaced the cap again this time with a normal one. The thing is when I burped the coolant system the bubbles never stoped after like 20min after the fans both came on. They slowed down to just a few but still that isn't normal is it? When the system was empty and cool I stuck my finger in there and didn't see any oil. and din't notice any when I was burping it. Also when it was on the verge of overheating I noticed steam/smoke coming from the front of the motor (belt side) Could this be a blown HG or could all this be a resault of that overflow bottle...I hope so
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
man, i hate to say this, but it sounds to me that you got a blown head gasket. the same thing happend to me. and yea i would stop driving it asap! before your head gets warped. when you go to replace the gasket, try not to get ebay or failpro! get oem mitsu or cometic or other name brand 3 layer. also invest in some arp head studs. trust me its worth it. how many miles are on the car and how many psi are/were you pushing?
 
well, check your oil and see if it has any discoloration, or is milky. that is a dead giveaway. but changing a head gasket isnt all to difficult, but it would be nice to have some buddies that have done it before help you out. or just talk to people on this amazing site!
 
Would I be able to tell from the oil on the stick? Or do an oil change? I know I have an oil leak up on the VC some where really small because I have oil in the spark plug sump. I have a full gasket set, so if I get up the curage to do it I have them.
 
i had the same problem since i got my car. no water in the oil, but was pushing compresion into the cooling system. replaced the headgasket and everything along the way belts water pump ext. and of course arp studs touqued to about 115. i know its high but i havent had a prob since and have put about 300 miles on it.
 
Ok I'm getting a compression test done on Saturday. There is still no smoke, coolant in the oil, etc... just alot of missing coolant and the endless bubbles. A friend told me to remove the tstat competley for now to releave the pressure and to get it to run cooler, is that a Bad Idea???
 
A couple of questions.

Can you replace a head gasket without having the head surfaced?
What would cause the overflow bottle to melt like that? Seems like water no matter how hot couldn't melt that material.
 
It's always good practice to resurface and check for cracks as it was likely pretty hot at some point and may have warped. But I've did them before where the HG wasn't the problem(Bad valves) but head needed to come off. Just make sure the both surfaces are spotless and a composite(stock) mitsu HG will do just fine. Given the head wasn't overheated!

Now MLS, cosmetic on the other hand you should have both surfaces done(head block) but some will argue you don't and they do hold up for a lot of people over and over reusing. But If you have the option to, with a MLS do it. IMO
 
Right now I need to get it fixed the cheepest I can, I'll get to performance later I just need it running now. I'll start shopping for an OEM now. Also what else should I seriously consider picking up? water pump, timing belt, balance elemination, timing pullies?
 
yeah i blew my HG and warped my head....do NOT drive with that sucker blown or it just costs more moeny to replace.
 
Ok so I just a compression / leak down test done. My compression numbers starting with the cylender closest to the filter are 150, 135, 125, 150. The mechanic told me that none of them leaked down any and held as long as he left the tester screwed in. He also showed me where you could see the water coming out of the water pump as it ran. So now I just need a waterpump and the installation. Like everything else do I need to go OEM for the pump??? Also I should do timing, tensioner, pully, and BSEK right?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top