new 420a engine with oil light at idle problems

[Shameless]

I just finished dropping in a new 420a. project went well until after its first warm up, the idle was kind of odd. The oil light was coming on. So I searched the forums and came up with the oil light at idle forums, saying change out or check out the oil sending sensor. So I went ahead and replaced it, same problem. when I start it let it warm up for about 10 minutes the oil light doesn't turn on until about 5 minutes of driving. it only goes on at idle but it seems like when the car has been running for a little while the oil light comes on a little sooner in the gear like 1500rpms to the most I've seen it was 2500rpms. When the car sits at idle the car heats up quite a bit, not when I'm driving the car stays at about 180 degrees, when its at idle it shoots up to about 240+ degrees.I was told I should use a non-synthetic oil too soon, right now I'm using Royal Purple 10w-30. I need some help on what to do, this is a new engine and I shouldn't be having problems this soon. I only have less than 200 miles on the engine. If someone can help so I can figure out if I gotta get this company to replace it or an easy fix.

 

[Locke]

Did you rebuild the engine? Assuming so, did you remember the o-ring in the bedplate, and the pick-up is secure?

 

[Shameless]

I bought the engine as a low mileage block(like 10000 miles) with a new head. came as a complete longblock. havent learned to rebuild an engine. This was my first time dropping a new engine in.

 

[djjohns55]

check your oilpan for major dents. it may have gotten dented while installing the engine.

 

[RSTeclipse97]

You could try an aftermarket oil preasure gauge to see what you actually have. Sometimes for no reason my oil light will come on in a turn,but everything is okay. As far as the overheating at idle, did you remember to plug your fans back in presuming they were out of the car for the removeal and install, You could be getting enough air flow to keep cool while driving but none sitting still

 

[Shameless]

the fan works fine, but there is a little amount of oil leakage, I'll go check the pan. But do you guys think it might be from the oil I'm using? should it be a non synthetic for the break in or a heavier oil or something?

 

[99RedGs]

The oil should have nothing to do with it. I say if your oil light keeps coming on I would stop driving your car until you figure it out before you waste the money you just spent on that motor.

Seeing as you bought the block off of someone else the possibility of it being done half-assedly is possible.

-The oil pickup could be loose or damaged
-You say you have an oil leak so (i know it's obvious) but make sure you aren't actually low on oil
-Bad oil pump
-The crank shaft bearings are worn out and the oil can't build up enough pressure to make it to the top end of your motor
-The oil journals (paths the oil travels back down to the oil pump) are clogged and the oil can't return to the pump.
-Make sure the wiring on your oil pressure sensor isn't FUBAR'd (check the wire for bare spots, if the wire grounds out the light comes on)

I don't know I'll keep trying to think, Good luck

 

[Shameless]

well I got the engine from a company from southern california, I'm trying to figure out if its a small fix or if I gotta use my warranty towards another one. there is a very small amount of oil leaking, I've been trying to figure it out but a majority of my tools are at my friends house, and he's been busy. I check all fluids before I turn the car on and off, its not leaking that much oil at all, I've only had to refill maybe 1/4 of a quart after almost 200 miles.

 

[Shameless]

my friend whos been helping me this whole time thinks it might be a bad seal from the main bearing because the majority of the small leak seems to be coming from the area where the motor and tranny are joined, I doubt its anything while the oil pan, for the reason of a new seal and proper torquing, the pick-up is doubtful, once again torqued down properly. I tried installing a new oil pressure gauge but the bolt on the backside of the block to connect to was on the block from the company was painted over and stripped out after the first or second try. not too sure on what else to try since my car never had any kind of problem even similar to anything like this on the old motor, so I'm really doubting anything relating to a sensor.

 

[White_Comet2]

i am about to drop in my new 420a tomorrow...i was told to use just a regular non-synthetic oil for like the first couple thousand miles.... i was told by some buddies of mine who are mechanics....i would replace the seal between the tranny and engine and then switch to a reg 5W-30 for a couple thousand miles....but that is onlt based off what my buddies say....good luck with your problem...i hope i don't have one like it

 

[blownturbotsi]

Well he said that the motor already had 10k on it when he bought it, so he's fine with that oil.

 

[Shameless]

the oil isn't the problem its the lack of oil pressure at idle or low rpms, the oil is fine. But the block has about 10k on it, the head is brand new. I have a mechanic coming tomorrow( depending on the weather) to diagnose the problem. From the symptoms its looking like the block is not completely sealed, seeing as how its leaking from that exact spot, its looking like the rear main seal.

 

[White_Comet2]

which is a result of an improper break in....the previous owner must have used a thinner oil for the break-in period....thats what i was trying to say....the seals most likely did not seat correctly..Good Luck

 

[Locke]

Engine break-in is to seat the rings, nothing else.

 

[Shameless]

well just fixed another thing wrong with it, the timing belt went loose, and was slapping against the timing cover and found out that there was a faulty hydraulic tensioner, the oil seems to have two possible problems the leak from the rear main seal and/or a bad oil pump. The seal is going to be done hopefully this weekend. I'll keep you posted.