Thicker oil reduce knock?

[64_Frankenstein]

I couldn’t find any topic on using thicker oil to reduce engine from knock so I decide to make this thread since I have this problem. I have a 6-bolt 4G63 engine and just convert it over to a 6-bolt 4G64. It has Eagle rods, JE piston 40 over, and the 100mm 4G64 crankshaft from FFWD Connection. Here is the web site about the crankshaft but got it from a owner on ebay which clam he don’t need it anymore. The crank was never been use or install according to the owner. The 4G64 crankshaft rod journals are 44.70mm same as the 4G63 if I’m not mistaken. FFWD Connection - Race Injuns That Will Freeze Your Brain My problem is the engine started to knock over 3,000 RPM and also shown in the datalogger. It show 5 to 20 counts of knocks. I can also hear it. Sound like a belts slapping against each other and I hope that is the problem. This only happens when I accelerate at 1 to 2 PSI. This does not happen during normal driving and slightly acceleration. Yes I did have the correct side rod and engine bearings and does not have any play during installation. The balance shaft has been remove. I was thinking if it’s not the alternator belt or the timing belt which making these noises then it must be coming from the engine. I’m going to check it again to see where it’s really coming from. The way it sounds Im sure it’s coming from the engine. My question is can I use thicker oil such as 20W-50 to reduce the engine from knocking? Some say thicker oil reduce engine nosie? My oil pressure gauge is dead and no longer function and I can’t tell the oil pressure. Do you think it could be oil pressure drop to cause the knocking? Is there any other way with out tearing it down? Since I just got it rebuild I hated to tear it apart again. Thanks in advance.

 

[T is for TURBO]

If you are really getting true knock, thicker oil won't help. getting rid of knock requires a proper tune.

You may be getting rod knock or piston slap, wich can get picked up by the knock sensor, but thicker oil would only put a band aide on serious problem.

sound to me like you have pre ignition (knock) and rod knock mixed up...

You might want to do more research

 

[1992awdlaser]

What kind of pistons? And what was the piston to cylinder wall clearance set at?

 

[64_Frankenstein]

If you are really getting true knock, thicker oil won't help. getting rid of knock requires a proper tune.

You may be getting rod knock or piston slap, wich can get picked up by the knock sensor, but thicker oil would only put a band aide on serious problem.

sound to me like you have pre ignition (knock) and rod knock mixed up...

You might want to do more research

I hope it's not a piston slap. I need get it retun again and see if that helps. Some say after market stroker piston is nosie?

 

[spoonman]

+1 he answered the question perfectly.

You said your oil pressure gauge is not responding, check your wiring to it, the oil pressure is very important to know.

 

[64_Frankenstein]

What kind of pistons? And what was the piston to cylinder wall clearance set at?

It's JE piston 40 over. I took my block had it machine and rebored to fit the piston. I don't understand why it's knock like hell. Makes me wonder did I done some thing wrong.

 

[T is for TURBO]

pistons shouldn't make noise.
get a working oil pressure gauge too. I can't stress it enough, its equally as important as a boost gauge and water temp gauge.

 

[64_Frankenstein]

+1 he answered the question perfectly.

You said your oil pressure gauge is not responding, check your wiring to it, the oil pressure is very important to know.

I already did and that don't help because the gauge is also stuck. I'm going to get me a mechanical oil pressure gauge from the auto parts store near by and see if the engine is losing oil pressure.

 

[T is for TURBO]

do that before anything else.


including driving it.

 

[64_Frankenstein]

do that before anything else.


including driving it.

I hope this will solve the problem. If it is the oil pump then Im ****.

 

[1992awdlaser]

It's JE piston 40 over. I took my block had it machine and rebored to fit the piston. I don't understand why it's knock like hell. Makes me wonder did I done some thing wrong.

I'm thinking the piston to cylinder wall clearance might be set too loose thus causing piston slap.

 

[T is for TURBO]

getting a working oil pressure guage won't solve the problem, it will help diagnose the problem.

did you put the enigne together or did a machine shop assemble it?

 

[64_Frankenstein]

I'm thinking the piston to cylinder wall clearance might be set too loose thus causing piston slap.

I'm not really sure if it's a piston slap or not. During installation I have to slightly squeeze the piston into the cylinder. It's my first time to have a major engine rebuild.

getting a working oil pressure guage won't solve the problem, it will help diagnose the problem.

Yes thats correct.

 

[T is for TURBO]

I think your best bet is to take it to a shop. They will be able to better diagnose the problem since they can actually witness whats happening. We can only speculate

 

[64_Frankenstein]

did you put the enigne together or did a machine shop assemble it?

I have the block machine by professionals and so as the cylinder head. Then I had my self put it all back in one piece.

I think your best bet is to take it to a shop. They will be able to better diagnose the problem since they can actually witness whats happening. We can only speculate

To a machine shop or auto repair shop?

Is it a sign of detonation? I ran 93 pump gas with out a hot plug. Timing is retarded.

 

[T is for TURBO]

I have the block machine by professionals and so as the cylinder head. Then I had my self put it all back in one piece.

did you double check the clearances?


auto repair shop will be the most help for you

 

[twack]

20w-50 is recomended in the manual for turbocharged cars

 

[64_Frankenstein]

did you double check the clearances?


auto repair shop will be the most help for you

Yes I have. I have to squeeze the piston into the cylinder. There's not much clearance at all. I hope it's not a piston slap. Well any other way I'm still ****.

did you double check the clearances?


auto repair shop will be the most help for you

Dam, It's gonna cost me arm and leg if I take it to them. I guess I don't have a choice.

 

[T is for TURBO]

20w-50 is recomended in the manual for turbocharged cars

sure about that? I'm pretty sure its 5W-30 and 10W30.

I don't have my manual here, so I can't check

 

[64_Frankenstein]

sure about that? I'm pretty sure its 5W-30 and 10W30.

I don't have my manual here, so I can't check

Will it hurt to use thicker oil?

 

[T is for TURBO]

Yes I have. I have to squeeze the piston into the cylinder. There's not much clearance at all. I hope it's not a piston slap. Well any other way I'm still ****.

Yeah, pistons are a tight fit becaue of the piston rings, you checked the ring gap right? you also clocked the rings as well I assume? how about the rod bearing clearances? where they in spec? you can't rule out rod knock.

For all we know, it could be detination.

what did the oil look like last time you changed it?

20W-50 won't hurt, if you go to thick it can cause problems

 

[64_Frankenstein]

Yeah, pistons are a tight fit becaue of the piston rings, you checked the ring gap right? you also clocked the rings as well I assume? how about the rod bearing clearances? where they in spec? you can't rule out rod knock.

For all we know, it could be detination.

what did the oil look like last time you changed it?

Yes I have check the piston ring end gap according to JE piston and rings installation. The ring end gap has a clearance as a size of a finger nail. I check the rod bearings already. Before I buy the new sets of bearings from what I was told there's a stamp on the back of the bearings indicate the correct size bearings for the crank. It saids "0.20mm" That's what my crank require. I just put new oil in it. The oil looks clean from what I see.

Yeah, pistons are a tight fit becaue of the piston rings, you checked the ring gap right? you also clocked the rings as well I assume? how about the rod bearing clearances? where they in spec? you can't rule out rod knock.

For all we know, it could be detination.

what did the oil look like last time you changed it?

I for got to mention that the motor don't even have over 200 miles yet.

 

[1992awdlaser]

What did you use to check the clearances (piston/wall, rod bearing, ring gap, main bearing)?

Like already mentioned I would take it to a shop. Or you can try to find a dsmer close to you that knows what they are doing.

Edit: The manual reccomends 10w-30 just so you guys know.

 

[64_Frankenstein]

What did you use to check the clearances (piston/wall, rod bearing, ring gap, main bearing)?

Like already mentioned I would take it to a shop. Or you can try to find a dsmer close to you that knows what they are doing.

Edit: The manual reccomends 10w-30 just so you guys know.

I took it to a machine shop and have them machine it. I measure it with a miklometer who ever you spell it. I don't have any one around my area that I know of who drives DSM. Most of them are Hondas and dislike anyone who don't drive one.

 

[T is for TURBO]

well, your supposed to at least platigauge the brearings. just becuase they are stamped, doesn't mean they are correct. when working with machined parts it's check, recheck, and then check it again.

So, you have 200 miles on a fresh re-build and haven't changed the oil yet. After a rebuild the car should be started, brought up to operating temp, shut down, and new oil goes in. then you start the break in process... did you do this?