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attaching fitting to end of feed line

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ilikespeeding

15+ Year Contributor
839
4
Nov 13, 2005
Greenville, North Carolina
Ok, so Im upgrading fuel filters. Im hoping to use the stock fuel line dispite its obvious lack of size. When I removed the stock filter, there was a nut that remained on the fuel line. This nut has threads to attach the fuel filter on it, I was wondering if I could attach a fitting on this nut and call it a day or if it would leak. Does anyone know?
 
Id say it will be fine just be sure to use a thread sealer thats ok to use around objects that come into contact with gas
 
Unless the filter has a grommet in it, I think it would be okay. I have 3 choices now:

1) Just suck it up and buy the $100 feed line
2) Remove the line, weld the nut in place, and replace the line (GTFO)
3) Say #### it and slap it on.

I'm redoing quite a few systems in the car right now, and dont have the time or money for one or two.
 
You need to correct fitting, then you can convert to -6an braided, inline filter and then another -6an line to the rail. (you'll need the appropriate fittings of course to make it all work) I just removed this set up from my car to run -8an and dual pumps.
 
So, you just attached a fitting to the end of the fuel line, ran SS line into the bottom of the filter, and then to the rail? That's what I was planning to do too.
 
Supa Dexta is very correct.

You cant just slap an AN fitting on the stock fuel line and "call it a day". You will leak.

Its not that expensive to run from the tank to the rail with AN lines and fittings. BUT, since youre using a stock line.. why not just use the stock size fuel filter and location?
 
Stock line is pretty close to -6an If I remember correctly. Once you get the bottle necks out of it.

1) Stock AFPR
2) The Banjo fitting that goes into the top of the stock filter
3) The fitting from the feed line into the fuel rail

So doing what I mentioned will get rid of a couple of those, and will help a lot. Track down what fitting is on the line (I can't remember off hand) then get an adapter from it to -6an, get a -6an filter, and a -6an rail inlet. Much better flowing and prob around $100 or so, for all the bits and pieces and a filter..
 
Stock line is pretty close to -6an If I remember correctly. Once you get the bottle necks out of it.

1) Stock AFPR
2) The Banjo fitting that goes into the top of the stock filter
3) The fitting from the feed line into the fuel rail

So doing what I mentioned will get rid of a couple of those, and will help a lot. Track down what fitting is on the line (I can't remember off hand) then get an adapter from it to -6an, get a -6an filter, and a -6an rail inlet. Much better flowing and prob around $100 or so, for all the bits and pieces and a filter..

Prob a typo, but the stock FPR is def not adjustable.

Everything you've listed has been removed. I already have a fuel lab filter. Also, the -6AN fitting bolts right on the line. I dont know why the OE filter would leak if this setup would. To me, the part Im worried about is the space inbetween the nut and the line itself.
 
like i just sais as long as you do it right, buy all the right peices etc, etc, doing a stainless line looks good, and i personally like have the an fittings and be able to dopr/swap blah blah.....i just sucked it up and bought the kits.
 
My question is "what are the right pieces?". I know I could buy a $100 stainless line and run the chance of it leaking in the future, or I could stick with the stock, dependable, metal hose that wont leak and risk leaking at the fitting in the engine bay.
 
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