lc-1 wideband install

[68442]

I'm trying to use this before I install my dsmlink just to see how bad things are. I am going to place the o2 sensor in the stock location. In order to use the new o2 with the ecu are these instructions I found correct to hook in?




I ended up cutting the Rear O2 sensor [Pin 75 on 2g, I believe] wire going to the ECU and soldered the Yellow LC-1 wire to the ECU. I then spliced in the White and Green wires to pin 81, i believe which should be sensor ground. Blue I wired to a chassis ground point and Red was wired to cigarette lighter. Brown was taped up.

 

[Splitpi]

The ECU will not be able to read the O2 unless you put the Wideband output in Narrow Band simulation mode. Its not the best signal, but it works.

I posted this on DSMLink forum, but will copy here incase someone doesn't have DSMLink:

Where are you sourcing power from for the LC-1 since it needs to be switched and have 5A, Cigarette Lighter? Also where are you mounting the LC-1? It is hermetically sealed, so it can be mounted outside the car.

The reason I am asking is that Welded the bung about 1.5 ft from the turbo outlet and just before the flex section of my down pipe. The wiring from the Sensor to the plug is not long enough to reach to the rear O2 hole (under driver seat), so I will need mount the LC-1 module on the underside of the car and route the wires up through the hole. I intend to remove the Rear O2 and cut the harness and solder:
- LC-1 (YELLOW) to Rear O2 (WHITE) - Signal
- LC-1 (GREEN) and LC-1 (WHITE) to Rear O2 (BLACK) - Analog and System Ground
- LC-1 (BLUE) to the Chassis Ground
- LC-1 (BLACK) will be routed under the arm rest and the LED and reset switch mounted into the arm rest
- LC-1 (BROWN) wil be taped up and not used
- LC-1 (Serial IN) will be routed to the armrest in the same manner as the Reset Switch

Universal Digital Tuning Products and Tuning Tools from Innovate Motorsports

So to reiterate my questions, what power source is best and where would be best to mount it?

and a follow up reply of:

Quote:
Originally Posted by rad_dsm
My rear O2 has four wires Blue, White, Black, and Black.
So what do you do with the other two wires for the rear O2, Blue & Black?
Does it matter which Black I use?
Do you just cut off the Rear O2 Sensor and tape up the (Blue & Black) wires?
Do you have to do anything to tell DSMLink that the rear O2 is removed?

Thanks

I ended up cutting the Rear O2 sensor [Pin 75 on 2g, I believe] wire going to the ECU and soldered the Yellow LC-1 wire to the ECU. I then spliced in the White and Green wires to pin 81, i believe which should be sensor ground. Blue I wired to a chassis ground point and Red was wired to cigarette lighter. Brown was taped up.

I mounted the unit on the center frame brace and routed the wires into the cab by cutting a small slitt at the bottom of the steering rubber boot.

I then set DSMLink to ignore rear O2 faults and calibrated the LC-1 per manufactors recommendations. It took me longer than I anticipated, ~4 hours, but I spent alot of the time trying to loosen the cap on the bung I had previously welded onto the DP a week prior (~2 hrs to weld the bung to the DP, stupid O2 sensor studs seized to the nuts and were a pain to get the studs restarted) and had seized up (I believe #10 hex fits cap), as well as replacing the stock front O2 with a new one since I was so inclined. I also spent alot of time triple checking my pin counts and wire to ensure they were correct.

Edit:... Hahaha... those were my instructions...

I'm Des Moines, so if you need more help PM me and I can swing by.

 

[68442]

Yes, I stole them from you Thanks! I'll hit you up if I ever need some help.

 

[turbosax2]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/286731-lc1-wideband-install-w-pics.html

 

[ApexVIII]

so by using the yellow wire, then` you set DSMlink to log it in a narrow band correct? cus the yellow one is narrow band out put and the brown is wideband

 

[Splitpi]

so by using the yellow wire, then` you set DSMlink to log it in a narrow band correct? cus the yellow one is narrow band out put and the brown is wideband

No. Per the manual and real world testing...
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-1_Manual.pdf

Yellow is Analog Output 1, Brown is Analog Output 2.

You can actually use either Yellow or Brown. I choose to just use Output 1. The Default configuration is Output 1 (Yellow) = 0 to 1 v (NB). Output 2 (Brown) = 0 to 5 v (WB).

The beauty of the LC-1 is that it is highly configurable via the supplied software. See Section 6.3 (page 14) of the LC-1_Manual.pdf for reconfiguring the outputs.

So you can hook it up the way I did, or you can hook up the brown and use yellow as NB ... its very configurable.

 

[ApexVIII]

No. Per the manual and real world testing...
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-1_Manual.pdf

Yellow is Analog Output 1, Brown is Analog Output 2.

You can actually use either Yellow or Brown. I choose to just use Output 1. The Default configuration is Output 1 (Yellow) = 0 to 1 v (NB). Output 2 (Brown) = 0 to 5 v (WB).

The beauty of the LC-1 is that it is highly configurable via the supplied software. See Section 6.3 (page 14) of the LC-1_Manual.pdf for reconfiguring the outputs.

So you can hook it up the way I did, or you can hook up the brown and use yellow as NB ... its very configurable.

so if i do the yelow wire it will still log into dsmlink as a WB signal?

 

[snowborder714]

so if i do the yelow wire it will still log into dsmlink as a WB signal?

As long as you reprogram Output 1 using LM Programmer to read 0-5v (wideband signal). The LM Programmer software should be found on a CD that came with the unit.

Take a look at this and use the values shown for Output 2 (2nd screen shot) and use them for the Output 1 tab. As you can see, the Output 1 tab has a range from 0-1v whereas the Output 2 tab has a range from 0-5v.
innovatelc1orlm1install [ECMTuning - wiki]

 

[Splitpi]

As long as you reprogram Output 1 using LM Programmer to read 0-5v (wideband signal). The LM Programmer software should be found on a CD that came with the unit.

Take a look at this and use the values shown for Output 2 (2nd screen shot) and use them for the Output 1 tab. As you can see, the Output 1 tab has a range from 0-1v whereas the Output 2 tab has a range from 0-5v.
innovatelc1orlm1install [ECMTuning - wiki]

Its not just about setting the range from 0-5v... you must also set the range over the A/F ratio. Per the wiki, 0v = 9:1 and 5v = 19:1

The factory default is 0v = 7.35:1 and 5v = 22.39:1. By changing it to what the wiki said, allows us to use the techedge wb settings without any other special configurations to DSMLink.

It really is not that difficult to set this all up. It just sounds more complicated than it really is. Should take no more than a minute.

Also, while the LC-1 CAN simulate the NB signal 0-1v it is NOT as clean of a signal as a true NB sensor would provide. It is stepped and edged. I would recommend using a true NB O2 sensor for the front O2 and wiring the LC-1 for logging and tuning purposes through the rear O2 sensor.

 

[ApexVIII]

i see, yea im leaving the stock front o2 and replacing the rear o2 with the LC1 using the brown wire.

im having problems with the car runing really rich ill have to look at it when i get home from work

Thanks!

 

[Splitpi]

i see, yea im leaving the stock front o2 and replacing the rear o2 with the LC1 using the brown wire.

im having problems with the car runing really rich ill have to look at it when i get home from work

Thanks!

Log your front O2 and make sure it is cycling correctly. The front O2 dictates the general fuel levels. The ECU uses the rear O2 to tweak the fuel to maintain optimum conditions in the CAT for well catalytic conversion. It does this by comparing the pre and post cat readings then tweaks the fuel based primarly on the front's reading. So it is possible a faulty rear O2 may cuase a slightly rich condition...

Log the front O2 readings. Make sure it cycling 0.1 to 0.8 generally. If this looks great, try in DSMLink, disabling the Rear O2 sensor. This will cause the ECU to no longer care what the Rear O2 sensor is reading. You'll need to disable the Rear O2 sensor anyways when you install the LC1

 

[ApexVIII]

yea its running pretty rich its sputters when i rev it.

did you tap the wire right at the ECU or down by the stock rear o2 plug harness?

mine is right at the ECU like 1inch off.



there are some other wires in gray tap that and there. in one of these lc1 installs it showd a pic of how they ran the wires and a little of the ECU, and they had the gray tape there to. does any one know why there are other wires there?

Log your front O2 and make sure it is cycling correctly. The front O2 dictates the general fuel levels. The ECU uses the rear O2 to tweak the fuel to maintain optimum conditions in the CAT for well catalytic conversion. It does this by comparing the pre and post cat readings then tweaks the fuel based primarly on the front's reading. So it is possible a faulty rear O2 may cuase a slightly rich condition...

Log the front O2 readings. Make sure it cycling 0.1 to 0.8 generally. If this looks great, try in DSMLink, disabling the Rear O2 sensor. This will cause the ECU to no longer care what the Rear O2 sensor is reading. You'll need to disable the Rear O2 sensor anyways when you install the LC1

 

[Splitpi]

yea its running pretty rich its sputters when i rev it.

Ya, check your front O2 via dsmlink...

did you tap the wire right at the ECU or down by the stock rear o2 plug harness?

mine is right at the ECU like 1inch off.

there are some other wires in gray tap that and there. in one of these lc1 installs it showd a pic of how they ran the wires and a little of the ECU, and they had the gray tape there to. does any one know why there are other wires there?

I simply cut the rear O2 sensor wire about an inch or two from the ECU plug [enough to ensure I can reconnect it if I wanted too. I then [with a soldering iron and solder] connected the Yellow wire to the cut wire. This way I am not receiving a signal from the rear O2.
- LC-1 (GREEN) and LC-1 (WHITE) to Rear O2 (BLACK) - Analog and System Ground
- LC-1 (BLUE) to the Chassis Ground

Make sense?

 

[ApexVIII]

Ya, check your front O2 via dsmlink...



I simply cut the rear O2 sensor wire about an inch or two from the ECU plug [enough to ensure I can reconnect it if I wanted too. I then [with a soldering iron and solder] connected the Yellow wire to the cut wire. This way I am not receiving a signal from the rear O2.
- LC-1 (GREEN) and LC-1 (WHITE) to Rear O2 (BLACK) - Analog and System Ground
- LC-1 (BLUE) to the Chassis Ground

Make sense?

i see, thats what i did but i used the brown wire insted of the yellow one, soldered in the same spot

and i put the analog and the lc-1 all in the same place

if you go to
ApexVIII's 95 GSX - Page 3 - NorCal Forums
look at my last log its the
run07092008-1.dat

the front o2 is flatlined

 

[turbosax2]

Can you post the log here? You have to be a member there to view it.