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valve stem seal replacement help

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TSi90

Probationary Member
20
0
Dec 6, 2002
I was just wondering if anyone has got there valve stem seals replaced latley and i was wondering if you have to pull the head off the car to replace them.
 
Off the top of my head I think you can leave the head on. Wait for somebody to back me up here though. I've heard of people changine seals with the head on by threading rope into the cylinder to keep the valve up.
 
Originally posted by TSi90
I was wondering if you have to pull the head off the car to replace them.

Well, usually you do, but you can presurize the cylinders and pull your valve springs in order to replace them. It's not tooooo hard, you just want to make sure that when you do each cylinder, that you have the piston in the cylinder that your working on up as far as you can so that your valve(s) don't fall out if a problem comes up and you loose your air pressure. You might want to talk to your local garage and get some pointers if you do plan to take this on yourself. Also you could try the rope trick as was mentioned!

Steve. :thumb:
 
Originally posted by fivestardsm


Well, usually you do, but you can presurize the cylinders and pull your valve springs in order to replace them. It's not tooooo hard, you just want to make sure that when you do each cylinder, that you have the piston in the cylinder that your working on up as far as you can so that your valve(s) don't fall out if a problem comes up and you loose your air pressure.
Steve. :thumb:

I actually prefer to use both _string_ (cotton package twine found at the hardware store) and air pressure if possible. The cotton, should things go badly, will burn and the plastic will melt and could get on the rings and cause more problems. You can poke the string in with a bar-b-que wooden skewer wood or plastic chopstick or small dowel. I like to tie a small cotter pin on the end that is last to go in so it's easy to retrieve with a shirt pocket magnet. Do this with the piston part way down and then pull it up to tdc, if you got too much you will not be able to reach tdc so pull some back out if you are going to also use air pressure.

If you use compressed air and put crank at tdc put it in top gear and set the hand brake. Sometimes you don't get tdc perfect and the air pressure will push the piston down. That's just one of the reasons I don't like putting metal screwdrivers etc. down the spark plug holes for if you forget and the crank does rotate... a bad hair day. It's not difficult, just time consuming and patience. Should you loose the end a wire coat hanger with hook can fish it out, just don't get greedy. and yes it is possible to knock one off it's seal when using air pressure.

If I remember correctly a 14mm (9/16") 12 point socket works well for driving the new ones in place, just don't hit them so hard you make dents.

Holler if you get stuck.

Cheers
GTM
 
Just do it the right way. Worn valve stem seals usually means worn valve guides too. Just pull the head out and have it overhauled. Besides, I did the VFAQ valve spring compressor mod and it won't fit with the head on.
 
Originally posted by TSi92
Just do it the right way. Worn valve stem seals usually means worn valve guides too. Just pull the head out and have it overhauled. Besides, I did the VFAQ valve spring compressor mod and it won't fit with the head on.

I've worked for Porsche, Audi, VW, and Nissan dealers. Not to mention a few independants and my own Lancia specialty shop. I've worked on somewhere between 15,000-20,000 cars over almost 40 years and that doesn't include more motorcycles than I have digits. As long as there is a labor rate specified for doing the job with the head on and head off the car one must assume they know what they are talking about. I've straightened bent valves through the spark plug hole and sent the customer on his way. I've done this job on various cars at least 10 times and I average about 1 comeback a year. I spent 5 years as tech inspector with SCCA, have a provisional teaching credential and an associate member of SAE.

I keep promising to put up my article on a $5 valve spring compressor which will do the job on or off the car. Shouldn't take more than 1/2 hour to make and only needs a couple spot welds. If welder isn't available a 3rd hole will need to be drilled. You cannot use compressed air unless you want to get fancy in making the tool. Once made the job should take about an hour which beats the hell outta pulling the head if the valves are not worn.

Guess it's time to finish the article eh.

GTM
 
Originally posted by GTM

I've done this job on various cars at least 10 times and I average about 1 comeback a year. I spent 5 years as tech inspector with SCCA, have a provisional teaching credential and an associate member of SAE.GTM

That sentence is unclear, should have read 1 comeback per year over all vehicles. Never had a comeback on anything related to the subject at hand.

Woops, forgot to mention a master mechanic's license and service manager of a 22 man shop with the least number of customer complaints and the lowest warranty rate 3 years running in So. Ca. Oh, there is master carpenter certificate in yacht building.

Not everyone is flush with time and money, if changing the seals buys him 6mo or a year it's his choice. If it makes the car pass smog then it's worth it. My 2¢ without inflation.

GTM
 
GTM thanks for your 2 cents worth. I am with Poorboy daily commute racing and my 92 Talon with 152,000 miles I am sure needs some new Valve Stem Seals. I probably do need the valve stem guides to but like you said. If it can buy me a 6 months to a year I need that time and time is valuable to me.
Right now I can't just pop for getting everything fixed perfect. I bought my car from a buy here/pay here lot and drove it all the way 2600 miles roundtrip from Cleveland, OHio to Miami, Florida.
During the drive the car did not smoke from all the highway driving cruising constantly at 80mhp-92mph. After I got back from my trip and the car would sit for any amount of days or even 1 day it initially blows out some blueish/white smoke for a minute then warms up and it goes away.
The Valve stem seals are (I think) giving out after 152,000 miles and I suspect that they leak when the car is shut off just sitting. How much money should I expect to pay to get this fixed. Thanks a lot.:dsm:
 
Originally posted by JJay
GTM thanks for your 2 cents worth. ...
After I got back from my trip and the car would sit for any amount of days or even 1 day it initially blows out some blueish/white smoke for a minute then warms up and it goes away.
The Valve stem seals are (I think) giving out after 152,000 miles and I suspect that they leak when the car is shut off just sitting. How much money should I expect to pay to get this fixed. Thanks a lot.:dsm:

You bet. These are the classic symptoms of worn valve stem seals. I know it's a surprise in this day and age but much worse on the list were the seals on the Mitsu 3.0L V6 used in the Voyager and Caravan. These including mine smoked like a furnace pulling out from a traffic light. It was embarassing and you just wanted hide, if it was a paticular long light you would have to turn the engine off just to keep it from loading up and leaving a smoke trail half way down the block.

As for cost it depends on who you call, sorry I've got no figures for the job, I'd guess 2-4 hrs depending on the skill of the mechanic. Get out the ole yellow pages and start dialing. The worst part of the job will be getting the belt back on with it in proper time. It will require someone with a rather specialized valve spring tool for there is very little room down in the spring pockets.

Do you know the history of the timing belt? They may not nick the edges going back together for if it starts to fray it could spell disaster. It would be best if you can find someone who is reasonably familiar with the engine although a senior Master Mechanic should be able to do the job.

Cheers,
GTM
 
I got this car off of a buy here/pay here lot for $2,500 and I am almost certain that it has never had a timing belt change......but how could that be because it has 152,000 miles on it.

Right now it is sitting in my backyard with a dead transmission and I start it every couple of days or so. I put Z-Max into it last June 2002 and sometimes I use the Stopsmoke products in Autozone. This seemed to help me out. Cheap tricksOMG

The car rans AWESOME all the way from Cleveland, OH to Miami, Florida and back last June. It didn't smoke or anything after all the miles and running on the highway. (2600 total miles). I got excellent fuel mileage. It only cost $50 dollars to go 1,300 miles and $50 to get back 1,300 miles. That is excellent fuel mileage on an old engine. Only mods I have are a drop in K&N Airfilter and that is it!!

Do you GTM think it is possible for a non-turbo DSM to go 152,000 miles without a timing belt being changed?? When I bought the car it had a Brand new radiator and CV Joints so somebody did something to it. Maybe they did do the timing belt?:confused:
 
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