FP green Max

[D's GS-T]

Well, I was doing some research, and tried to come up with a good mods list for the FP green. I really want to run this thing to the max, and see what it can really do. The question I have is am I gonna have to have a built motor and trans to do it. This is what I have come up with so far. I tried to devide everything up in the stages I will by things. (bare with me )

Stage 1

FP 4 inch intake, K&N filter, and 3 inch reducer
Eibach sportline springs
KYB AGX shocks
strut tower bars
Greddy type S B.O.V
Boost controller
Turbo-back exhaust
Gauges and Pod.

Stage 2

ACT 2600 6 puck clutch
walbro 255 fuel pump
AFPR
720cc injectors
E.T.S Race FMIC
DSM Link, AEM EMS, or some other tuning device (may need 95 Eprom)

Stage 3

FP green Turbo
ARP headstuds
Cosmetic Headgasket
Ported mani, Tubular header, Or FP race mani (have't decided yet)
272 crower Cams
Tial 41 mm wastegate
Magnus SMIM
1st gen throtle body
Shep Tranny

P.S don't bother with my profile, because I no longer have my GS-T. This build will be on a 97-99 GSX. I am also gonna use the 7 bolt motor (unless I absolutely have to switch). Any info would be Niec am I missing anything, do these parts look ok. I tried to pick out good reputable parts in doing this, and not cheap ass crap parts so hopefully they work together.

Thanks a lot.

 

[imagine3163]

That looks like a great upgrade path. You are definitely going to be pushing the limits of your stock transmission very quickly so I would suggest moving the stage 2 from shep up to your second stage. As far as the engine goes, with the head studs and head gasket, you should be ok if you are not pushing more than 400-450 hp. At that point, I would start looking into building your motor up.

 

[MrPikolo]

I put down 502whp with the green on a stock manifold. If you are starting from scatch, than maxing out the green should be the least of your worries.

 

[93clips]

IMO i would add a MAF translator on that list with a 3" gm maf. although the 2g mafs are pretty free flowing themselves. but maft's can be used to tune also. just a thought if you want close to zero restrictions and you can just run without an intake and vent the bov.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

It looks like you're serious about this, so do yourself a favor and don't buy AGX's and especially not the Sportlines. Sportlines have even less spring rate than stock and they drop the car too much, thus compromising handling and ride.
I wish Eibach would take Sportlines off the market.

 

[gsx951]

I'd add a Bosch 044 pump and -8AN lines so you can run E85.

 

[D's GS-T]

So ditch the AGXs and sportlines, what should I go with. I'll also go with a 3 inch Maf, and MAF-T

 

[gsx951]

Koni/hypercoil/RRE pillow mount

 

[2gGSX]

I would recommend larger injectors if you're going to go with DMSLink or AEM. I would look at the 1000cc range to keep IDCs low and to open up the possibility of E85.

With the stage 3, I would personally get the head O-ringed and use a composite gasket instead of the Cometic. I would rather the headgasket give than something else, in case I flub up. With that in mind, I'd also recommend getting a set of the new L19 ARP headstuds if you can afford it. They cost two to three times as much as a regular set of ARPs, but you can guarantee yourself that the head won't be moving at all.

Have you considered any other clutches than the ACT 2600 + 6 puck? Fidanza makes a great sprung 6 puck (4.3) that is less expensive and is rated for over 600 ft-lbs of torque as well.

As mentioned, an upgraded tranny will be eventually needed so be sure to factor that cost in.

 

[D's GS-T]

I would recommend larger injectors if you're going to go with DMSLink or AEM. I would look at the 1000cc range to keep IDCs low and to open up the possibility of E85.

With the stage 3, I would personally get the head O-ringed and use a composite gasket instead of the Cometic. I would rather the headgasket give than something else, in case I flub up. With that in mind, I'd also recommend getting a set of the new L19 ARP headstuds if you can afford it. They cost two to three times as much as a regular set of ARPs, but you can guarantee yourself that the head won't be moving at all.

Have you considered any other clutches than the ACT 2600 + 6 puck? Fidanza makes a great sprung 6 puck (4.3) that is less expensive and is rated for over 600 ft-lbs of torque as well.

As mentioned, an upgraded tranny will be eventually needed so be sure to factor that cost in.

Thanks man, So I'll just go with 1000cc injectors, and get the head O-ringed. I'll get the composite headgasket, and check out the L19s, and the clutch

The car is gonna be built over a period of time, so I won't be getting everything anytime soon. I am not hell bent on these parts either, so if their are some better options I will definetly consider them.

 

[MrPikolo]

If you are running dsmlink, i would recommend against a maft. You will just be making things more complicated than they should be. The 2g maft will handle 50lbs/min. 1lb/min equals out to about 10hp.

You don't need an o-ring head for 500hp. arp studs and a stock composite gasket will work.

You can run e85 if you want, but you are going to need 1600cc injectors.

tokico's with sportlines will be plunty.

You trying to max out a 50 trim turbo, not a gt35r.

 

[D's GS-T]

alright sounds good

 

[2gGSX]

You don't need an o-ring head for 500hp. arp studs and a stock composite gasket will work.

Getting the head O-ringed is incredibly cheap and will all but guarantee you from pushing any coolant. If he has the head off then IMO there's no reason for him to not get it O-ringed.

You can run e85 if you want, but you are going to need 1600cc injectors.

You trying to max out a 50 trim turbo, not a gt35r.

For that exact reason you don't need 1600cc injectors. 1000cc injectors on straight E85 delivers 1000/1.33*4*.784/454 = 5.19 lbs/min of fuel at 43 psi base fuel pressure, which at 11.5:1 will support 53.7 lbs/min of airflow at 90% IDC. That's also roughly what a well supported Green should be churning out.

Furthermore, with 1600cc injectors you lose a lot of streetability (ask anyone who runs them if you don't believe me). You also need some major fuel pump to flow enough at higher fuel pressures--not just an inline 044, like twin pumps and thus upgraded fuel lines to make the most of all that. The point is it's unnecessary for a turbo of this size.

 

[Gstclipse69]

Yep stick with 1000cc injectors. Definitely run dsmlink, it is much more user friendly than any other stand alone fuel management system. I would recommend the fp race mani over the tubular. They have been proven to flow the same and tubular manis are proven to crack over time. The fp mani with a ceramic coating looks just as good as a tubular in my opinion. Is this going to be strictly a track car or will it see some street as well?

 

[BINGchndlr]

Is that on the stock block?

I put down 502whp with the green on a stock manifold. If you are starting from scatch, than maxing out the green should be the least of your worries.

 

[supermech21]

Where are you going to get a type s from, i thought they were discontinued?

I would modify your stages a little, seems like you have a pretty well set up:

stage 1 (easy bolts ons that dont need a tune and suspension)
Springs and shocks
3" TBE
Wideband/Boost/egt(not hooked up)

Stage 2 (all your fuel and bolt ons yet still retaining the stock turbo)
1000cc inj
Walbro 255
AFPR
Race IC with IC pipes set up (deciede on blow through or re circ, i would go blow through)
1st Gen TB
Intake Manifold
DSM link

Stage 3 (Turbo, tranny, and head) I would just suck it up and do it all at once
FP Green
38mm WG(i dont think you'll need a 41...get a tial)
O2 housing
ARP studs
Head gasket
Shep tranny
Clutch(everyone seems to recomend the ACT 2600)
MBC
272 cams

Think that covers it. The bad part about doing everything hard in stage 3 is playing the "what did i forget to hook up causing my car to run like shit" game, because you changed so much at one time. So you may want to consider doing the cams, studs, and head gasket in stage 2.

Good luck

 

[jjrock5]

Can somebody tell me if an Evo 9 fuel pump will flow
enough to keep up with the Green? Plans are to run it daily at ~22 psi.