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Wierd smoking problem, need help asap!!

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JunkieXL

Probationary Member
29
0
Jun 27, 2006
Charlotte, North Carolina
Ok, my car has a brand new (less than 200 miles) Mhi evo 3. Solid compression 180-176-180-180. Less than 84k on the whole engine, and a crazy smoking problem that is driving me up the wall. I just had it into the dealership for a leakdown/pressure differential test to see if the valve stem seals were the culprit, and they said that the numbers were well within spec, but they wanted to charge me $800 to do it anyway.

Now, when i first start the car, theres no smoke. It only smokes after idling hot for about a minute or two, and then its barely noticable, however if i rev the engine, theres no smoke during the actual rev, but as soon as the rpm's fall down to idle, theres a large puff of blue smoke out from the exhaust.

My theory is that its one of two culprits, the oil return line, (extpsi install kit, has a very slight kink right before the angled fitting) or excessive crankcase pressure. Ive replaced the Pcv with a new oem one, and that dosent seem to have done anything, i'm running a small breather filter off the valve cover vent, but as i recall, the engine only uses the valve cover vent for breathing under full boost, and the car only smokes after its free revved, not during boost

Has anyone had symptoms similar to this, and could offer some insight please, i'm really running out of ideas
 
Have you done a boost leak test recently? I recommend you do one.
Have you checked for oil in the LICP?
Have you checked that the in-line VC breather filter isn't clogged?

If your compression is good and you can fix all true boost leaks, and it seems like it's still leaking air out the oil fill cap or VC breather line, you might have worn intake valve stem seals.
 
No oil in the Licp, the car has always leaked some air/oil out from under the filler cap, but i always attributed that to a dried up seal, as far as i know, all boost leaks are capped and sealed
 
No oil in the Licp, the car has always leaked some air/oil out from under the filler cap, but i always attributed that to a dried up seal, as far as i know, all boost leaks are capped and sealed

So if you BLT at the compressor inlet to 20psi on a warmed-up motor, how long does it take to lose 1psi of that initial 20psi?
 
I had that exact same problem with my car! It ended up being a bad turbo/worn out turbo. It was a t28 which also had a long hairline crack in the exhaust housing that ran all the way into the center of the turbo. i swapped it out for a MHI evo 3 turbo and the problem was fixed. You have a new turbo, so im a little confused. Maybe its a defective turbo?
 
So if you BLT at the compressor inlet to 20psi on a warmed-up motor, how long does it take to lose 1psi of that initial 20psi?

Not entirely sure, i'll throw the tester back on tomorrow, it takes roughly 45 seconds for 17psi to bleed fully out of the system. On the old 14b, i never could get the system to pressurize past 17, however i figured that was due to the O ring inside the compressor housing being old/cracked

I am seriously wondering about the return line now though, it smoked in an identical way before i swapped the 16g on, however i attributed that to the 14b being blown. However both times my return line has had a slight kink due to the fittings. Could even a slight bend cause oil to back up and blow by the seals in the turbo under pressure?

To the people saying its a bad turbo, i highly doubt it, its a true MHI evo 3 shipped brand new from Extremepsi, so the chances of it being a lemon are very slim.
 
I've seen them smoke like that, Usally I found that I had a ring cracked or, in the last motor that I did, The ring grooves were lined up. The last one showed good compression on all cyl. But after getting into it, we found someone had lined up all the ring grooves.
 
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