Am I doing this wrong?

[xxShaneOmac]

2" couper with 2" pvc cap

tapped a 1/4 npt into the cap and threded a quick connect into it w/ plumers tape

Hooked up to the compressor with a cap on each end of the couper. and my caps blow out.

The clamps are as tight as can be and the pvc caps fit nice and snug in the end.

Why are they blowing out at only 20 psi?
Will they blow out when Im boost leaking my car?

What Im I doing wrong?

 

[turbosax2]

I put a nice big glob of JB weld on the outside of the coupler in the gap between the coupler and the cap. I also sealed up the nipple on the outside with JB weld. Try this, or maybe get a t-bolt clamp so you can clamp down harder on the cap.

 

[spoonman]

You are doing a boost leak test right? When I do mine I have no problem but I use a silicone couple to attack to the turbo with a all purpose hose clamp, is the pvc cap not flexible enough to grab onto the compressor.

 

[xxShaneOmac]

Its Cap inside couper with all purpuse clamp around it.

Then I did the same thing on the other side cause I wanted to test the tester and see if it could hold 20 psi.

It didnt.

So JB Weld it huh. Grrr that stuff haha.

 

[snowborder714]

You don't need to "test the tester". Just make sure that the clamps are as tight as you can get them and slap some JB weld in the seams and around the tire valve as Eric said. Then put in on your turbo inlet or tb elbow and tighten the other clamp down. You should have no problem with pressure testing your system to 20psi or more.

And I think if you tried to "test the tester" that it'd just blow up if it didn't leak.

 

[kenamond]

2" couper with 2" pvc cap

tapped a 1/4 npt into the cap and threded a quick connect into it w/ plumers tape

Hooked up to the compressor with a cap on each end of the couper. and my caps blow out.

The clamps are as tight as can be and the pvc caps fit nice and snug in the end.

Why are they blowing out at only 20 psi?
Will they blow out when Im boost leaking my car?

What Im I doing wrong?

Uhhh...I'm missing something here. Why are you putting a cap on both ends of the coupler? You need one cap with the fitting and the other end clamps to the compressor inlet. Are you just testing your tester for boost leaks?

I used RTV between the coupler and cap, torqued the worm clamp down and let it dry overnight.

 

[snowborder714]

Are you just testing your tester for boost leaks?

That's what it sounds like he was doing

 

[xxShaneOmac]

Yeah I dont have the car here and want to make sure Im not going to leak out of any connections

Im Leak Testing the Boost Leak Tester. :]

Whats it called when there is a buldge at the end of a pipe or w/e where the coupler goes over and then a clamp is pre buldge so the coupler wont come off?

Are there any say 2" pipes that are closed on one end that I can add this buldge to?

 

[xxShaneOmac]

And I think if you tried to "test the tester" that it'd just blow up if it didn't leak.

Well I put 20 psi though the tester with 2 cap'd ends and I got a minor leak at the stem and then the other end shot off. :]

Why wouldnt I get this same type of result when its on the car?
The other end is blocked off. Just along ways away correct?

 

[turbosax2]

Whats it called when there is a buldge at the end of a pipe or w/e where the coupler goes over and then a clamp is pre buldge so the coupler wont come off?

Are there any say 2" pipes that are closed on one end that I can add this buldge to?

Are you talking about beading?

Beaded Ends on I/C Pipes

 

[snowborder714]

Whats it called when there is a buldge at the end of a pipe or w/e where the coupler goes over and then a clamp is pre buldge so the coupler wont come off?

Are there any say 2" pipes that are closed on one end that I can add this buldge to?

The bulge is called a bead. The pipe can either be rolled/expanded or have a bead welded on.

I'm not sure what you're asking dealing with the 2" pipe with the bead. You can take a piece of pipe to any exhaust or machine shop and they'll be able to put a bead on it.

Well I put 20 psi though the tester with 2 cap'd ends and I got a minor leak at the stem and then the other end shot off. :]

Why wouldnt I get this same type of result when its on the car?
The other end is blocked off. Just along ways away correct?

You should be fine with putting it on a car. If it starts ballooning or sliding off, just stop, release the pressure slowly (using the tire valve) and then readjust the tester and tighten again.

 

[xxShaneOmac]

New Quest now.

I need a 2" Metal Pipe with threads on one side, Then a Cap that I can thread in.

Can anyone help me?!

 

[2point3Tsi]

if you use epoxy from the cap to coupler with a t-bolt clamp and thread the fitting into the cap with a tight fit and epoxy then it will hold for 20psi. I used a fernco 2inch coupler and pvc pipe cap, works fine

 

[snowborder714]

So you want to make a metal boost leak tester?

If so, how do you plan on tightening this down around your turbo inlet or tb elbow?

 

[xxShaneOmac]

So you want to make a metal boost leak tester?

If so, how do you plan on tightening this down around your turbo inlet or tb elbow?

Metal beaded Pipe w/ Cap that is taped Clamped into a coupler [rubboer or silcione] and the other side open for the turbo.

I need to find a place to buy this metal pipe that is threaded with an fitting cap I can screw in to cap it off air tight now.

 

[snowborder714]

What's wrong with using the PVC end cap? As stated before, just put some JB Weld in the seam between the end cap and the coupler and you'll be fine. No need to search far and wide for something you probably won't find (the 2" threaded pipe and cap - that would probably have to be custom made).

 

[xxShaneOmac]

Silly perfectionist who trys to do to much would be my guess. :]

The Fact that JB Weld STINKS! Dosn't hurt.

But Ill def dive that a try just thinking outside the box :]
Thanks guys.

Im still interested in any type of pipe anyone may know of or come across

 

[snowborder714]

If you are really set on using some sort of pipe, I would take the coupler to an exhaust or machine shop and have them find a piece of pipe that fits in there snugly. Then just have them weld another piece on the end to make it sealed off. They'll probably even drill, tap, and weld in your tire valve too.

 

[kenamond]

. . .have them find a piece of people that fits in there snugly.

Like a thumb or ear? Just make sure to take it out before the leak test, or it might end up in the compressor.

Anyway, just put RTV or JBWeld or epoxy or something between the coupler and cap before you clamp it down. Also, put some RTV on the threads of the fitting when you thread it into the cap. When you put it on the turbo, the compressor does have a bead, so all you have to worry about is the PVC cap and valve.

If you have a dremel tool with one of those sanding drum bits, you could grind some dents into the PVC cap for the coupler to grip on.

 

[Calan]

Whats it called when there is a buldge at the end of a pipe or w/e where the coupler goes over and then a clamp is pre buldge so the coupler wont come off?

An explosion waiting to happen...

Seriously though... speaking of anal... I'm working on an idea for a "permanent" BLT. I hate doing these things for some reason.

 

[kenamond]

An explosion waiting to happen...

Seriously though... speaking of anal... I'm working on an idea for a "permanent" BLT. I hate doing these things for some reason.

Wonder if you could do the following:
Pop the recirc tube off the intake pipe.
Feed a rubber bladder with attached fill line in the intake pipe toward the compressor.
Inflate the bladder so that it seals off the intake pipe. Probably have to be fairly thick so that it could hold 20psi+ to withstand the BLT pressure.
Add a BLT valve and gauge (permanently) to the UICP.
Apply pressure to the valve while watching the gauge.

EDIT: Actually, you'd probably want the BLT valve and gauge off of the IM (maybe tee into the PCV-IM line) so that you could put the bladder in the TB elbow if desired. Eh, probably not much easier than the normal BLT.

 

[snowborder714]

Like a thumb or ear? Just make sure to take it out before the leak test, or it might end up in the compressor.

Wow...ya, that's what happens when it gets really late. I start typing (and saying) some weird stuff.