Finally.First log.Check it out

[tbonitz301]

Time , RPM Timing ,TPS ,O2 1 Bank 1,O2 Trim 1 Bank 1
00:00.89 ,1544.0 ,29.0 ,0.79 ,0.96 ,-9.37
00:01.78 ,1860.0 ,28.0 ,21.61 ,0.26 ,-3.91
00:02.66 ,2144.0 ,24.0 ,35.36 ,0.06 ,3.91
00:03.54 ,2412.0 ,26.0 ,34.58 ,0.64 ,10.94
00:04.42 ,2712.0 ,17.0 ,40.86 ,0.62 ,9.38
00:05.32 ,3168.0 ,13.0 ,56.58 ,0.96 ,0.0
00:06.21 ,3620.0 ,8.0 ,67.19 ,0.98 ,0.0 1/19/00-12:20:34 - Obd2
00:07.09 ,4024.0 ,9.0 ,91.16 ,0.98 ,0.0
00:07.98 ,4432.0 ,10.0 ,91.55 ,0.98 ,0.0
00:08.86 ,4828.0 ,13.0 ,91.94 ,0.98 ,0.0 sorry that i couldnt get this log
00:09.77 ,5180.0 ,13.0 ,91.94 ,0.98 ,0.0 attached right. not to sure how
00:10.64 ,5500.0 ,13.0 ,91.94 ,0.98 ,0.0 to do it. anyways tell me what
00:11.55 ,5800.0 ,14.0 ,91.94 ,0.96 ,0.0 you all think. This is a 3rd gear
00:12.43 ,6044.0 ,15.0 ,91.94 ,0.96 ,0.0 pull
00:13.32 ,6324.0 ,17.0 ,92.34 ,0.96 ,0.0
00:14.21 ,6572.0 ,17.0 ,92.34 ,0.96 ,0.0
00:15.10 ,5188.0 ,19.0 ,42.04 ,0.66 ,0.0 how would i take a screenshot
00:15.98 ,4596.0 ,32.0 ,0.79 ,0.56,0.0 of my log when im in plviewer?
00:16.87 ,4332.0 ,21.0 ,0.79 ,0.04,0.0
00:17.76 ,4008.0 ,20.0 ,0.79 ,0.0,0.0

 

[kenamond]

Looks good, but...

When you do a pull, floor it *all the way* from 2500rpm to redline. It looks like you floored it at 4k which is just after full boost "hits". It's good to see what the timing curve looks like just before boost hits all the way to redline.

Also, your TPS looks a bit low. I'm not sure where the threshold is, but the ECU will be in closed-loop mode (using the O2 sensor to figure out how much fuel to add) at lower TPS values and then switch to open-loop mode (using airflow measurements and a fuel map to figure out how much fuel to add) at higher TPS values (i.e. when you're at full load). It might be in the mid-90 TPS value that it does this, but it might also be lower. You should get high 90s at full throttle. You may need to adjust your throttle cable.

It's good to get an idea of what your TPS is at full throttle, but once you know that it's okay (and I'm not so sure yours is right now), you don't need to log it anymore. It eats up bandwidth on the diagnostic port, so if you stop logging it, you get more samples per second of other data or you can log a different variable at the same sampling rate.

Another thing to check is your IAT (intake air temperature) and coolant temperature. Once the motor is fully warmed up, check them both and make a note. If they are too high or too low, the ECU will pull timing (retard timing). You don't have to log it during a pull; just find out what it is just before and after the pull. Once you know what they are (and that they're "within spec"), you can stop logging them for the pull.

Also, you can check your LTFT (long-term fuel trim). This is a correction to the "exact" fuel delivery based on long-term, closed-loop observation by the ECU. It compensates for small problems that it has noticed over a period of time with the car being too lean or too rich (which it can only do when it's in closed-loop mode and using the O2 sensor to measure air-fuel ratio (AFR). If your LTFTs are +/-5% or smaller, you're usually good. If not, something's wrong. If it's 6%, that's one thing, but if they're 10%, you need to fix something. For example, clogged injectors would cause you to run lean, and the ECU would correct by adding fuel. That would show up in your LTFT (and I'd guess it'd be a positive trim value). Again, this is just something to check once or occasionally just to see general health of things.

Also, when you log a pull, I'd record RPM, timing advance, airflow, and front O2v. You can compute knock (not for the weak of heart) from RPM, airflow, and timing advance on a 2g (since you can't log it directly unless you have DSMlink). And O2v tells you in a very coarse way if you have fuel issues.

Finally, everything else looks okay to me. I don't know what boost you're running or airflow, so I can't say a whole lot, but I don't see anything abnormal other than your TPS value.

EDIT: More on coolant temps and IATs... The coolant temp usually doesn't change more than a degree during a pull (my experience). But if you have the wrong thermostat or problems with the thermostat, you'll get coolant temps that are too high or too low. I forget the low-end number, but I think that above 205°F will cause the ECU to pull a degree of timing. With IATs, again I forget the exact number, but something like 87°F or higher will pull a degree of timing. If you have an aftermarket air filter like I do (K&N FIPK gen 2), you suck hot engine bay air and air that came through the radiator into the motor, and it's usually higher. I rarely get IATs below 90°F unless it's cold, and I know I'm losing one degree of timing as a result. This is good to know when you're trying to compute knock, as you have to make these timing corrections to the logged value before you compare to the 2g timing map data (which is available, by the way). If you want that degree of timing back, you need a cold-air intake to keep the hot engine bay air from getting pulled in through the filter.

 

[tbonitz301]

Right now im limited to about 16psi. ill post another log 2marrow. does anyone know how to take a screenshot? so i can post some nice logs

 

[snowborder714]

Here's a tech article on posting readable logs. If you need more help, let me know.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...st-logs-so-people-can-actually-read-them.html

And as for how to take a screen shot:

1. Have the window up that you want to take a screen shot of.
2. Push the Print Screen button that is on your keyboard.
3. Open up Paint (Start > All Programs > Accessories) and click Edit > Paste or push Ctrl + V.
4. Save.
5. Attach to post.

 

[tbonitz301]

Awesome thank you. ill have this figured out in no time