Speedbleeders

[sniperelite]

Ok so my car luckily came with speedbleeders already installed. But now I am wondering how to work them I didn't know if I was supposed to unscrew them a little bit or screw them back in I had no clue. So anyways while I was tying to figure it out I unscrewed it and screwed it back in and because of 8 years+ of salted streets one of them cracked. So now I am stuck with half of a speedbleeder stuck in the threads and I am having a very hard time getting it out. On top of that I had no time to figure out how to bleed the system so I had to drive to work using only my e-brake . I tried searching but couldn't find out how to get them to work. If someone could please let me know how it works....I know it is most likely the simplest thing to do and I am just overthinking it. And also if anyone has any good ideas of how to get that bleeder that is stuck in the bleeder threads let me know.

 

[snowborder714]

Here is how SpeedBleeders work:

All you need to do is unscrew the bleeder 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn. Hook up your hose to the bleeder valve and the other end in a bottle with a bit of clean brake fluid in the bottom. Putting some fluid in the bottom isn't necessary as it shouldn't suck anything back up, but I still do it just to be safe. Then start pumping your brake pedal. Since it has a built-in check valve, there's no need to close the bleeder again. Make sure you have someone watch the reservoir that it doesn't get too low otherwise you'll start sucking air back in the system. Once you are sure you have all the air out of that line, close the bleeder valve and move on to the next.

How did it split? Have you tried grabbing at it (if possible) with pliers and unscrewing it?

 

[turbosax2]

Speed Bleeder Installation

 

[rb25det510]

you start at the furthest bleeder screw away from the master cylinder. so that would be the rear pasenger side, and then you go to the next closest one meaning the rear drivers side and you go up in a sequence like that with what sniperlite said.

 

[turbosax2]

Actually, the bleeding process on a 2g is a bit different.

 

[sniperelite]

Well I didn;t realize how weak they were and it snapped when i was retightening it back in. Ive tried pliers and stuff but no luck. I will try again today and hopefully I can get it out. Do you guys know if I can get one locally at a Pepboys or Autozone or are they order only?

 

[turboglenn]

If there's an opening in the part of the bleeder that's left, use an "easy-out" screw extractor and it should come out fine if you got it to turn once already when you broke it off. Then you can put a regular bleeder in there until you can order a speed bleeder to replace the broken one.

We stopped using them on the track cars we support because they were giving us troubles on race day after qualifying the brakes would need bled again ( just gravity bleeding them, but there was still more air than normal getting in) But we bleed all of the track cars between every race day due to the heat that the fluid gets to there's nothing you can do to keep there from being some air in the lines after a hard race on a road course. But having to bleed them between heats is ridiculous.

 

[sniperelite]

OK so I tried bleeding the system yesterday. This was my method: jacked up rear right side and unscrewed the bleeder 1/4-1/2 of a turn and hooked up a hose to it tightened the hose using a hose clamp and ran it into a cup filled with a little brake fluid in it. I had my friend hold the cup higher than the caliper and i started the car and pressed the brake pedal as many different ways as i could. I started pumping it all the way down and then just held it down all the way and then started pumping it as fast as it would go and then as hard as it could go. Hopefully I was doing it right. After that I just disconnected the hose retightened the bleeder put the car back down and I repeated the steps from Rear Right to Front Right to Rear Left and we were getting some bubbles out. Nothing huge. I think my friend said the most was 8 small little bubbles on the rear left side. Now here is my question. Once I finished the Rear Left I couldn't get to the front right so I couldn't bleed it at all. The whole reason why I was bleeding the system was because when I was switching my pads, one of the pistons on the front right caliper came out and I leaked my brake fluid out. So the majority that came out was from the front right. Now even though I bleed all the other lines except the front right I still have verry verrrry little to no stopping power at all when I drive even when I slam the brake pedal all the way to the floor. I am guessing this is because I wasn't able to bleed the line that all of the fluid came out of. Or is it just that I was bleeding them in the wrong way? Please let me know.

 

[turbosax2]

They all need to be bled for the brakes to work properly. When I bleed brakes, I jack the whole car up and support it with jack stands. I use cheap dot 4 fluid from Wal-Mart to bleed the brakes completely, maybe do it twice (that means go through all 4 wheels, then repeat all 4 again). Then I will put in the good brake fluid and bleed them all again. This is to help get any crap, air, and old fluid that was in there before, out.

 

[sniperelite]

How do I bleed the brakes w/o the speedbleeder. Once i get the broken one out then what will i need to do to bleed it?

 

[snowborder714]

Here's a few how-to's on brake bleeding:
How to Bleed Your Brakes - Step-by-Step Expert Advice - Popular Mechanics
How to Bleed Brakes - wikiHow

 

[marshall13]

I'm not too familiar with the calipers on a 2g, but if the piston came out, isn't there a high possibility that the caliper in question might not be able to hold brake pressure as well as all the others, therefore allowing air in the system and fluid out?

 

[Jetrosr]

You can pump the pedal 3-4 times to the floor hold it, then open the bleeders. With the broken bleeder you can just crack the bolt holding the brake hose to the caliper open to bleed it, then tighten it before the pedal is released. There will still be air in the piston, but it should be better than a completely dead circuit. Make sure to watch the level in the master cylinder so it doesn't go dry, or you'll be starting all over. Spray the r/f caliper off with brake cleaner after you finish bleeding and make sure there are no leaks. The pistons are usually aluminium with rubber seals. If the piston fell out you could have scratched a sealing surface or damaged a seal. If thats the case, any pedal you get will quickly fade away when your driving.

 

[snowborder714]

what the hell is a speedbleeder?

It is an upgraded bleeder valve for your calipers (and slave cylinder). It has a built-in check valve so that you don't have to keep opening and closing the bleeder valve when bleeding either your brakes or clutch. Highly recommended!!

Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder

Edit: Woo hoo! 1,000 posts

 

[snowborder714]

ohh, where can you buy this things?never seen these.

Directly from them.

Speed Bleeder Products, Inc Home

 

[turbosax2]

cool,thank you!!! are speedbleeders affordable?and do they make something like this to bleed a clutch?

Are they affordable? Um, the prices are right on that website. They come in regular and stainless steel, with the ss being more expensive. And yes, you can use a speedbleeder for your slave cylinder too.

 

[snowborder714]

cool,thank you!!! are speedbleeders affordable?and do they make something like this to bleed a clutch?

They are $7 each ($15 if you want SS valves).

SB1010 - that's the part number for the slave bleeder valve.

 

[snowborder714]

hey i just checked these things out.pretty neat. couple Questions. what size do i get for a 1g? and is there anything else i need to install these thing,other then the bleeders itself?

Speed Bleeder Products, Inc Automobile Application

And no, there's nothing else you need to install them. Just take out the old ones and screw in the new ones.

snowborder thanks for all your help. i have been messing with dsms for like 4 years now and never heard of these things.

No problem!

 

[turbosax2]

hey i just checked these things out.pretty neat. couple Questions. what size do i get for a 1g? and is there anything else i need to install these thing,other then the bleeders itself?

The list of sizes for cars is right on their site:
Speed Bleeder Products, Inc Automobile Application

1gs use SB1010 for each caliper. There is nothing else needed to install them although I recommend getting a bottle of thread sealant from the company. They come with sealant on them already, but after using the bleeder so many times the sealant wears out and a new coat needs to be put on.

 

[Defiant]

I started pumping it all the way down and then just held it down all the way and then started pumping it as fast as it would go and then as hard as it could go. Hopefully I was doing it right.

Snipe, it's time to cut your losses and risk, and have a shop do a full-bleed on your system. It's brakes. It's not something you can fiddle around with and do "well enough".

 

[sniperelite]

Haha I know what your saying...but it is fine im not driving the car right now. And I just ordered two front wheel hubs to fix those. After that I am going to have my friend who works at jiffy lube come over and help me get this stuff on.

 

[turboglenn]

i still say eliminate all the sped bleeders all together and just run them normally. Hopefully you learned something from the bleeding brakes links that were posted. It's not about pumping them hard or fast, actually harder and faster probably did a poor job.

If you can raise the entire vehicle up you can just gravity bleed them, it's slower but is very efficient for one person to do. Just go in the same order and have the whole car raised up level, put a line on it, open the bleeder and just let it run out and once a good bit has come out, cap that one back up and move to the next wheel. Don't' forget to keep the fluid full or you'll be starting over from scratch, and at that point you might as well buy some good brembo racing fluid and flush the system and use that for better performance all the way around, especially when the brakes are hot.

EDIT: Snowboarder hit a thousand posts inthis thread , i hit 666.. creepy