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Having issues picking a proper preassure plate need expierienced input.

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hahnsuper16g

15+ Year Contributor
77
0
Jan 23, 2006
St. Louis, Missouri
It's time for me to change my clutch setup and i decided to try the ACT 6puck sprung hub disc. I ran the 2600 with street disc last season and an xact flywheel. We finally got the car on the rack yesterday and found that my fully built tranny ate the spline of my drivers side axle. So i ordered a new one from mitsubishi but also it is time to change my clutch and my preassure plate and flywheel look pretty scuffed. I never had any engagement issues or anything that i could not fix by simply adjusting the clutch and at times it slipped a little on occasion. I am wanting to go into the season this year ready to race with as few issues throughout the season as possible. My dyno sheet shows the my pump gas numbers and my tq on race gas is about 370-380. My dilema is this I talked to act and they said that the 2600 is good for 412ft lbs of tq but of course when you throw in 20% drivetrain loss because that rating is at the flywheel you get 330fl lbs i am producing more than that at the wheels and so that's why on occasion it would slip. This year i am planning on runing built axles and 24inch slicks on my setup and i am debating going with the 2900 or 2600 preassure plate with the current 6 puck. I haven't ordered it yet and i want input on what you guys think would be best for what i want to do. The car is set up to be balanced as i am trying to do a litte bit of road racing, drag racing and it is still my daily driver. I have searched the forums and haven't found a answer that solidifies my decision. Again i already have the clutch disk i am trying to pick the proper preassure plate.
 
Look into the SBR 4000 clutch. I destroyed a couple 2100's, 2 2600's and more stock clutches then I can remember. I've had the SBR in the car for about 6 or 7 months now and haven't noticed any issue's thus far. I drive my car very very hard, launching it, at times, on back to runs (6,250 rpm launches) and it's held up beautifully. Although I don't think it's as good as an ACT 2900 with a 6 puck would be, just wanted to chime in with my experience. Good luck with whatever you choose and keep us updated
 
Not to thread jack, but my clutch set up is slipping some, I have a 2200 pressure plate, and south bend half ceramic, half kevlar disc which provided some good streetability but i think the ceramic part isnt holding up too good. well if I launch and bang a no lift to shift into 2nd gear it will slip slightly for a sec in 2nd and I cant do back to back launches or it will really slip bad but regular street pulls or even topping the car out wont make it slip. So Im going to upgrade the clutch shortly after i get cams because I know I will be on the border line with the set clutch set up at that point .

I was thinking of getting a 2600 pressure plate with a full kevlar disc.
On race gas car has already gone 115mph on this clutch set up before the clutch got weak. My end goals for the car is mid 11s 125+ mph traps and I plan to achieve that with e85 and a fp3052 turbo or some sort. I dont know power output but does a 2600 still fit the bill for hard 5500rpm launches at that level of power?
 
Thanks for the input I am still at a loss though if anyone has run the 2900 set up before please post and let me know the pros and cons. I have seen where people have run the 2900 with street disc but not with the puck style clutch setup. To the previous poster i just want to say that the 3052 is a wonderful turbo. I am currently running one and don't want anything else. I could run a bigger turbo but the car would be unbalanced as i would be dealing with lag and other things.
 
Thanks for the input I am still at a loss though if anyone has run the 2900 set up before please post and let me know the pros and cons. I have seen where people have run the 2900 with street disc but not with the puck style clutch setup. To the previous poster i just want to say that the 3052 is a wonderful turbo. I am currently running one and don't want anything else. I could run a bigger turbo but the car would be unbalanced as i would be dealing with lag and other things.

Those dyno numbers in your avatar are with the 3052 on pump gas correct?
How much boost, how aggressive is your tune. Im looking to make between 400-450whp with e85 and a all out tune on that turbo. So then a 2600 with a full kevlar disc will probably slip with that power level and 5500k rpm 2step clutch slips? Sounds id be in the same predicament as you are now if i went 2600 when i get the 50trim..
I just dont want the engagement, disengagement stress of going with a 2900... But looks that might be the needed course of action for both of our goals.
 
It's time for me to change my clutch setup and i decided to try the ACT 6puck sprung hub disc. I ran the 2600 with street disc last season and an xact flywheel. We finally got the car on the rack yesterday and found that my fully built tranny ate the spline of my drivers side axle. So i ordered a new one from mitsubishi but also it is time to change my clutch and my preassure plate and flywheel look pretty scuffed. I never had any engagement issues or anything that i could not fix by simply adjusting the clutch and at times it slipped a little on occasion. I am wanting to go into the season this year ready to race with as few issues throughout the season as possible. My dyno sheet shows the my pump gas numbers and my tq on race gas is about 370-380. My dilema is this I talked to act and they said that the 2600 is good for 412ft lbs of tq but of course when you throw in 20% drivetrain loss because that rating is at the flywheel you get 330fl lbs i am producing more than that at the wheels and so that's why on occasion it would slip. This year i am planning on runing built axles and 24inch slicks on my setup and i am debating going with the 2900 or 2600 preassure plate with the current 6 puck. I haven't ordered it yet and i want input on what you guys think would be best for what i want to do. The car is set up to be balanced as i am trying to do a litte bit of road racing, drag racing and it is still my daily driver. I have searched the forums and haven't found a answer that solidifies my decision. Again i already have the clutch disk i am trying to pick the proper preassure plate.

If I were you I would think twice before installing a 6 puck disk. I have a spec stage 3 with the 6 puck and their light weight flywheel and it chatters really bad. I think the 2600 should have been enough with their street disk. The 20% drive train loss is more for hp not torque. Maybe it didn't get broken in just right. But if you really want to use the 6 puck, the 2600 will have more then enough holding force.
 
If I were you I would think twice before installing a 6 puck disk. I have a spec stage 3 with the 6 puck and their light weight flywheel and it chatters really bad. I think the 2600 should have been enough with their street disk. The 20% drive train loss is more for hp not torque. Maybe it didn't get broken in just right. But if you really want to use the 6 puck, the 2600 will have more then enough holding force.

Thanks I am thinking of going with the 2600 more so. Also the 20% is tourque not hp per the rep at ACT and some other people i talked with this weekend. I don't mind the chatter as long as the clutch will hold and operate like i want it to. I ate up my street disk so i definatly feel the need for a puck style racing clutch i was just wondering if anyone had experience with the 2600 or 2900 and a puck clutch.
 
Those dyno numbers in your avatar are with the 3052 on pump gas correct?
How much boost, how aggressive is your tune. Im looking to make between 400-450whp with e85 and a all out tune on that turbo. So then a 2600 with a full kevlar disc will probably slip with that power level and 5500k rpm 2step clutch slips? Sounds id be in the same predicament as you are now if i went 2600 when i get the 50trim..
I just dont want the engagement, disengagement stress of going with a 2900... But looks that might be the needed course of action for both of our goals.

Those numbers are on 93 octane at 24psi. When i run race fuel i bump boost up to 26psi so i am dead at about 440-450 whp and around 360- 380ft lbs of tourque. The tune was very well done thanks to a friend of mine that owns a shop here in St. Louis and if you click the link to my dyno sheet you'll see that i am running a very good afr. I think it is like 11:5:1 with +2 degrees timing across the map. I plan on going with some minor upgrades at tax time. I think a tubular exaust manifold, some axles from the driveshaft shop and an hks dlI II ignition amplifier. I want to be able to run slicks this season and so i think those things will help keep my car safe as far as knock goes and durable to keep from breaking axles. I absolutley love the 3052 turbo. I cannot stop raving about how balanced and powerful it makes the car. I am seeing full boost at around 3800 - 4000 rpms and it is pulling all the way to redline.
 
Those numbers are on 93 octane at 24psi. When i run race fuel i bump boost up to 26psi so i am dead at about 440-450 whp and around 360- 380ft lbs of tourque. The tune was very well done thanks to a friend of mine that owns a shop here in St. Louis and if you click the link to my dyno sheet you'll see that i am running a very good afr. I think it is like 11:5:1 with +2 degrees timing across the map. I plan on going with some minor upgrades at tax time. I think a tubular exaust manifold, some axles from the driveshaft shop and an hks dlI II ignition amplifier. I want to be able to run slicks this season and so i think those things will help keep my car safe as far as knock goes and durable to keep from breaking axles. I absolutley love the 3052 turbo. I cannot stop raving about how balanced and powerful it makes the car. I am seeing full boost at around 3800 - 4000 rpms and it is pulling all the way to redline.

Save up for a twin disc clutch set up :sneaky:

Also thanks for answering the questions. Yea the 3052 is definitly the turbo im leaning towards instead of the TDO6 20g or gt3076r... But thats whats up, 440-450 whp are the numbers im looking for with a good race gas/ e85 tune. Id assume your pushing 49-51lb min or air flow on that turbo when running in the 26psi zone.
As far as the slicks , good luck not breaking stuff...
 
Id rock a 2900 for streetable purposes. I would def think about a twin disk (PTT, Quartermasters) to hold the power and do it for a long time. Those clutches are very streetable, but that depends on your idea of "streetable." I hate the chatter from them but its just something that needs to be compromised for performance. I have driven a twin disk as a daily driver and its not too bad once you get used to it. If you can deal with the chatter on decel then i would definately save your money and get a twin disk that yoy know wont fail...especially with slicks. Now you could always do a heavy pp with a puck....but that is much worse in terms of streetability in comparison to a twin disk.


Joe
 
The twin disk are good but the life span of them for daily driving is way to short for my taste. I mean the guy at devo tuning said that if i daily drove it i would be looking at 8000 miles. Otherwise normal lifespan is about 10,000 miles. I think i am going to go with the 2600 and the puck style disc for now and see how that holds up. I wish there was a way you could sample clutches but i guess that's just wishful thinking.
 
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