Throttle Body Problem - Added pics

[Mr2god]

So i've been having a busy couple of days. I was in the process of rebuilding the throttle body and what not. I have blocked off the egr, blocked off the coolant lines to the tb in preparation to install my FIAV BYPASS plate, and did new shaft seals. The problem is, I started last night and took it all apart. Now I come back today and the rubber seal fo all the stuff in the lower half of the throttle body has expanded and no longer fits in its little track. I think it was because of the heat it was exposed to or something so I have it in the freezer right now. If this does not fix the problem what do you guys propose I do. My dad says to fill it with a bunch of silicone and call it a day or maybe cut it in the middle and butt the two ends together w/ a little silicone, but neither seems like it would not do the job that that rubber seal does, but maybe i'm wrong. Any help is greatly appreciated.

p.s. i'll try to get a couple pics for those who dont know what i'm talking about

 

[zero97tsi]

Yes, pics please. The rubber seal shouldnt have expanded THAT much, something seems wrong.

 

[Mr2god]

Oh it expanded haha, I'll try to get a pic in a sec. I'm going to go check on it in the freezer right now, hopefully it went down.

 

[turboglenn]

I"ve had to cut them and butt them up with silicone, and it worked for me. But i have the coolant lines to the TB removed so i didn't have to worry about a coolant leak. ( or am i thinking of the wrong rubber seal?)

I'd say try and find a new one. We have this problem with a lot of older motorcycle carbs that have been sealed since the bike was new some 10+ years ago. Sometimes the freezer almost seems to help, but really it's all in laying it in there just right and getting the bottom on evenly and fast.

Gasket Sealer glue helps too.. it's a yellow liquid in a small tube from Permatex, it's more like a glue than a RTV and it helps keep little rubber parts in place during assembly

 

[Mr2god]

Ok here are some pics. As you can see both sides of the seal expanded and no longer fit into the track. Even the hole on the one side is noticeably bigger that it should be. Well enough talk the pics say it all.

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[zero97tsi]

Oh snap, yea. It looks like it stretched, which is probably just from the heat (like you said). Just use some "right stuff", it can be had from Advance Auto Parts, or maybe elsewhere. That stuff is super duper. Ive got it in my water outlet, valve cover, and my J-pipe.

A buddy of mine who builds up muscle cars, and various 8 bangers, uses the stuff on EVERYTHING, intake, exhaust, valve covers, water pumps. It's sort of pricey, but it's where it's at. And these are drag cars, one of them is a 1000+ hp Henry J

 

[Mr2god]

See yeah i would use some kind of silicone to seal it if it were any flat surface like you just mentioned (except the valve cover... you use that without a gasket in that track???) but it has like a little track and seems like it would not apply the same pressure to make the seal that that rubber does. Oh yeah those pics were taken after it had sit in the freezer for about 20 mins, it is back in now.

 

[zero97tsi]

Yea, that stuff I was talking about comes with a little nozzle. Youd just fill that grove with it buldging over a bit, let it set up a bit, and slep'er on.

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Oh, and yes. without a gasket. gaskets are for sissies. It works really well. I did it just to "see what happens" because I didnt feel like waiting till the next day to ORDER a new gasket, and its been on there for a few weeks now, through granny driving and driving like I just stole the damn thing, and its dryer than... uhhhh... something really dry.

 

[Mr2god]

I"ve had to cut them and butt them up with silicone, and it worked for me. But i have the coolant lines to the TB removed so i didn't have to worry about a coolant leak. ( or am i thinking of the wrong rubber seal?)

I'd say try and find a new one. We have this problem with a lot of older motorcycle carbs that have been sealed since the bike was new some 10+ years ago. Sometimes the freezer almost seems to help, but really it's all in laying it in there just right and getting the bottom on evenly and fast.

Gasket Sealer glue helps too.. it's a yellow liquid in a small tube from Permatex, it's more like a glue than a RTV and it helps keep little rubber parts in place during assembly

You definitely are thinking of the right seal. I removed my water lines too (just stuck a big bolt in em with the hose clamp and good to go, haha i finally decided on that method after one of your posts actually if I remember correctly) so i'm not worried about water leaks but what I am worried about is boost leaks.

 

[yokotabrat]

Mitsubishi part number MD614406 is what you want. I've never ordered them, but if you have a hard time getting them, you could also get them from this place: DSM THrottle Bodys (toward the bottom of the page).

 

[Mr2god]

Ok i'm not happy. I finished all the stuff by siliconeing that seal and put it all back together. I did the FIAV BYPASS (NOT BLOCKOFF) plate which I thought that the car would idle after a quick bump of the idle. It will not idle at all. After running it up and down the street and hardly moving the needle it will idle for about 10 sec at about 500rpm but then die. I'm going to go out right now and adjust the BISS and see if I can get it to idle. I think it was correct before the FIAV Bypass because it seemed to idle normal at operating temp. maybe even slightly high. Any suggestions???

 

[zero97tsi]

Does it idle hard during the period between not driving and dieing?

 

[Mr2god]

Ok i just adjusted the idle and got it to idle when warmed up and i have a huge leak at the throttle body gasket which is one reason it idled horrible. Fixing that now we'll see what happens.

 

[Mr2god]

Ok, I think I got it. Pulled the gaskets on both sides of the TB and covered em in silicone and no more gigantic leak. Got the BISS set to about 750ish and seems to be rock solid as of right now. This was all done while the car was warmed up though because you have too, to set the idle. So the real test will be a cold startup, which wont take long because its only about 35 deg out haha. Haven't done a boost leak test yet but power delivery already seems much smoother with the shaft seals fixed. Hopefully the cold startup test goes well. I'll update you guys when I try it.

 

[jessesgsx]

good luck with that..

 

[Mr2god]

good luck with that..

Haha, that sounds sarcastic. I do hope I have good luck though. Through my research most people said that the bypass plate doesn't do much harm, its the blockoff plate that ruins all chance of having an idle.

 

[Mr2god]

Ok well the first of the tests last night with the fully warm idle set to 700-750 didn't go so well. It seems that with the idle set that low while the car is warm, sets the cold idle right about at 500, which doesn't keep the car going. Last night it didn't take long for the car to warm up and idle "Ok", it slowly rose from 600 to 650 etc. as the temp gauge rose. So last night I took it to a buddies and it sat out all night and this morning the car was very cold and obviously did the same thing, but this time actually took longer to get to a decent idle because it was so cold.

So my plan is to adjust the BISS up to about 850-900 while the car is completely warmed up and see what that does to the cold idle. Hopefully it will get it up to about 650-700rpm. You guys have any idea if this works, or does the cold base idle just depend on the FIAV? I don't know, but i'm trying it.

This is obviously not exactly what I wanted, but if it works it will have to be that way just for the winter I guess and I'll adjust it back in the spring. I'll keep you guys updated. This is a very annoying way of testing because I have to keep warming the car all the way up and letting it cool WAY down to do the cold start. Good thing its only like 25deg outside.

 

[Mr2god]

Well I just did my first semi-cold test. It has only been sitting for a couple of hours and the outside temp is actually getting up to like 35deg so its not super cold but it started up and held about 650rpm so thats good I guess. I think i'll still bump it up another 50 or so to make the cold idle about 700 and the warm about 950, which yes is a little high but is way better than having 2200rpm cold starts with crazy surge haha. More updates to come.