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11-26-2007, 11:59 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Anchorage, Alaska
Region: Pacific Northwest
Registered: Oct 2007
Posts: 190
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Installing ARP headstuds
I checked the Tech forum and I couldn't find anything. Now i realize the fact that it should be real simple to put in the headstuds, but to anyone who has done it, how is it done, or how have some people done it? And should I use locktight in the block or anything? I just want to make sure I do it correctly when I go to put on the head. TIA!
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11-27-2007, 12:04 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Manheim, Pennsylvania
Region: Tri State
Registered: Mar 2007
Posts: 935
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do you have AIM?
If so hit me up man, my SN is murcielago4g63
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11-27-2007, 12:06 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: St. Louis, Missouri
Region: Midwest
Registered: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,539
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Just use the ARP moly lube.
____________________________
Tom
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11-27-2007, 12:07 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Manheim, Pennsylvania
Region: Tri State
Registered: Mar 2007
Posts: 935
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just to add to "2gGSX" 's comment, you only use the ARP moly lube on the threaded part of the stud that is on the cylinder head side of the stud NOT THE SIDE THAT GETS THREADED INTO THE BLOCK
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11-27-2007, 12:15 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Anchorage, Alaska
Region: Pacific Northwest
Registered: Oct 2007
Posts: 190
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So essentially just screw the one side of the headstud into the block all the way down or until there are no more threads? Then use the ARP moly lube on the threads that go into the head?
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11-27-2007, 05:13 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Toney, Alabama
Region: Southeast
Registered: May 2004
Posts: 111
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I prefer to chase the threads in the block with a bottoming tap prior to installing them; use a vacuum & air hose to dislodge any chips or debris that the tap clears from the threads. Second best is to use one of those round wire brushes for block passage cleaning in a drill (same cleaning procedure applies). The point is to clear the threads of any possible obstructions that might prevent the studs from all being threaded evenly into the block; you want them all to seat at the same height to provide even force distribution all across the head when the nuts are threaded on with moly lube and torqued to spec (never try to torque a dry nut/bolt!). 
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11-27-2007, 08:42 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Classifieds Moderator
From: Hartford, Michigan
Region: Midwest
Registered: Apr 2003
Posts: 163
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This should answer all your questions:
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/headstuds.html
____________________________
-Dale
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11-27-2007, 09:54 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Hoffman Estates, Illinois
Region: Midwest
Registered: Jun 2004
Posts: 337
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Do not tighten the studs into the block big no no. You want to thread them in then leave them loose.
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11-27-2007, 09:59 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Omaha, Nebraska
Region: Midwest
Registered: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,100
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The Direction come with the Studs otlining the proper procedure
Put them into teh block hand tight ( or hand loose ) however you want to look at it. There's an allen wrench hole in the top of them to aid in installing ( but you shouldn't need it if you cleaned the block properly)
Once the studs are in the block hand tight. Use a good torque wrench and set them to 85 ft/lbs when using the ARP moly lube. ON re-installs, if you ran out of the lube, you can use 30 weight motor oil and tighten to 120 ft/lbs. Again, it's all in the instructions when you buy them. I only typed this out incase you got them already in a motor or something.
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11-27-2007, 12:50 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Anchorage, Alaska
Region: Pacific Northwest
Registered: Oct 2007
Posts: 190
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Thank you all! Really. And I will make sure I clean the threads before placing the head studs in. I do believe that when I rebuilt the engine roughly over a thousand miles ago, I cleaned them for the standard head bolts. Its better to just make sure though  . And I am sorry, I don't have the instructions for the head studs, My dad has the head studs at his shop. I'm going there tonight to keep working on my rebuild v2.0 haha. I just wanted to make sure I knew about the head studs before I got to that part. Thanks again everyone!
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11-27-2007, 12:58 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Anchorage, Alaska
Region: Pacific Northwest
Registered: Oct 2007
Posts: 190
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I went to the page recommended by fertez_turbo, and they have a mod on there that makes you cut part of the engine mount off. Since I have my entire engine apart before hand, is that a necessary mod that I would still have to make?
Last edited by AlaskanDsm : 11-27-2007 at 01:01 PM.
Reason: post went up twice
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11-27-2007, 01:12 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman
From: New Cumberland, Pennsylvania
Region: Tri State
Registered: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,932
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Use a m12x1.25 chase for 6 bolt block and a m11x1.25 for 7 bolt
____________________________
- Nathan
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11-27-2007, 01:19 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Classifieds Moderator
From: Hartford, Michigan
Region: Midwest
Registered: Apr 2003
Posts: 163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskanDsm
I went to the page recommended by fertez_turbo, and they have a mod on there that makes you cut part of the engine mount off. Since I have my entire engine apart before hand, is that a necessary mod that I would still have to make?
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You can't set the head down over the studs with that bracket in the way. As long as that bracket is removed from the block, then you won't need to trim it to re-install the head.
____________________________
-Dale
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11-27-2007, 01:26 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Anchorage, Alaska
Region: Pacific Northwest
Registered: Oct 2007
Posts: 190
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Dang... well couldn't I just put the head on before I put on that bracket? Just curious.
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11-27-2007, 01:41 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Classifieds Moderator
From: Hartford, Michigan
Region: Midwest
Registered: Apr 2003
Posts: 163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskanDsm
Dang... well couldn't I just put the head on before I put on that bracket? Just curious.
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Yes, that would work. I was under the assumption the motor was in the car with all motor mounts still attached.
____________________________
-Dale
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11-27-2007, 02:03 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: reno, Nevada
Region: Rocky Mountain
Registered: Sep 2005
Posts: 159
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Just remember that when you do your final torque on the head studs to go over all ten studs twice with the final torque setting. It will prevent you from blowing the head gasket between 2-3 cylinder. Its always a good idea to use lots of lube on the nuts.
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11-27-2007, 02:08 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Anchorage, Alaska
Region: Pacific Northwest
Registered: Oct 2007
Posts: 190
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Oh I apologize! Yes I have my engine sitting on my engine stand and I bought the studs because of future plans for my car  . Thank you for bearing with my brain farting moments there.
But thats good that I don't have to do that mod. I just want to get my engine rebuilt asap. I have been without my car for over 6 months....  . So I really appreciate the information and knowledge!! Thanks again everyone!!
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06-18-2008, 04:13 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: chi towns finest, Illinois
Region: Midwest
Registered: Aug 2007
Posts: 71
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So I'm installing my ARP head studs and I put the head on without the bracket on there and some of the washers don't want to sit flush with the head
Anyone help me out? I already sprayed copper spray on the head gasket...dohh
Part number 207-4201. I'm sure my friend ordered the right ones?
Forgot to mention head is flush with the block
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