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Newbie Forum Beginner/newbie/general DSM questions. first mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. New Members must limit their tech posts to this section.

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Old 11-26-2007, 11:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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1G-specific Installing ARP headstuds

I checked the Tech forum and I couldn't find anything. Now i realize the fact that it should be real simple to put in the headstuds, but to anyone who has done it, how is it done, or how have some people done it? And should I use locktight in the block or anything? I just want to make sure I do it correctly when I go to put on the head. TIA!
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Old 11-27-2007, 12:04 AM   #2 (permalink)
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do you have AIM?

If so hit me up man, my SN is murcielago4g63
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Old 11-27-2007, 12:06 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Just use the ARP moly lube.


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Old 11-27-2007, 12:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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just to add to "2gGSX" 's comment, you only use the ARP moly lube on the threaded part of the stud that is on the cylinder head side of the stud NOT THE SIDE THAT GETS THREADED INTO THE BLOCK
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Old 11-27-2007, 12:15 AM   #5 (permalink)
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So essentially just screw the one side of the headstud into the block all the way down or until there are no more threads? Then use the ARP moly lube on the threads that go into the head?
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Old 11-27-2007, 05:13 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I prefer to chase the threads in the block with a bottoming tap prior to installing them; use a vacuum & air hose to dislodge any chips or debris that the tap clears from the threads. Second best is to use one of those round wire brushes for block passage cleaning in a drill (same cleaning procedure applies). The point is to clear the threads of any possible obstructions that might prevent the studs from all being threaded evenly into the block; you want them all to seat at the same height to provide even force distribution all across the head when the nuts are threaded on with moly lube and torqued to spec (never try to torque a dry nut/bolt!).
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Old 11-27-2007, 08:42 AM   #7 (permalink)
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This should answer all your questions:

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/headstuds.html


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Old 11-27-2007, 09:54 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Do not tighten the studs into the block big no no. You want to thread them in then leave them loose.
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Old 11-27-2007, 09:59 AM   #9 (permalink)
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The Direction come with the Studs otlining the proper procedure

Put them into teh block hand tight ( or hand loose ) however you want to look at it. There's an allen wrench hole in the top of them to aid in installing ( but you shouldn't need it if you cleaned the block properly)

Once the studs are in the block hand tight. Use a good torque wrench and set them to 85 ft/lbs when using the ARP moly lube. ON re-installs, if you ran out of the lube, you can use 30 weight motor oil and tighten to 120 ft/lbs. Again, it's all in the instructions when you buy them. I only typed this out incase you got them already in a motor or something.
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Old 11-27-2007, 12:50 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thumbs up

Thank you all! Really. And I will make sure I clean the threads before placing the head studs in. I do believe that when I rebuilt the engine roughly over a thousand miles ago, I cleaned them for the standard head bolts. Its better to just make sure though . And I am sorry, I don't have the instructions for the head studs, My dad has the head studs at his shop. I'm going there tonight to keep working on my rebuild v2.0 haha. I just wanted to make sure I knew about the head studs before I got to that part. Thanks again everyone!
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Old 11-27-2007, 12:58 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thumbs up

I went to the page recommended by fertez_turbo, and they have a mod on there that makes you cut part of the engine mount off. Since I have my entire engine apart before hand, is that a necessary mod that I would still have to make?

Last edited by AlaskanDsm : 11-27-2007 at 01:01 PM. Reason: post went up twice
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Old 11-27-2007, 01:12 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Use a m12x1.25 chase for 6 bolt block and a m11x1.25 for 7 bolt


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Old 11-27-2007, 01:19 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskanDsm View Post
I went to the page recommended by fertez_turbo, and they have a mod on there that makes you cut part of the engine mount off. Since I have my entire engine apart before hand, is that a necessary mod that I would still have to make?
You can't set the head down over the studs with that bracket in the way. As long as that bracket is removed from the block, then you won't need to trim it to re-install the head.


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Old 11-27-2007, 01:26 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Dang... well couldn't I just put the head on before I put on that bracket? Just curious.
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Old 11-27-2007, 01:41 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AlaskanDsm View Post
Dang... well couldn't I just put the head on before I put on that bracket? Just curious.
Yes, that would work. I was under the assumption the motor was in the car with all motor mounts still attached.


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Old 11-27-2007, 02:03 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Just remember that when you do your final torque on the head studs to go over all ten studs twice with the final torque setting. It will prevent you from blowing the head gasket between 2-3 cylinder. Its always a good idea to use lots of lube on the nuts.
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Old 11-27-2007, 02:08 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Oh I apologize! Yes I have my engine sitting on my engine stand and I bought the studs because of future plans for my car . Thank you for bearing with my brain farting moments there.

But thats good that I don't have to do that mod. I just want to get my engine rebuilt asap. I have been without my car for over 6 months..... So I really appreciate the information and knowledge!! Thanks again everyone!!
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Old 06-18-2008, 04:13 PM   #18 (permalink)
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So I'm installing my ARP head studs and I put the head on without the bracket on there and some of the washers don't want to sit flush with the head

Anyone help me out? I already sprayed copper spray on the head gasket...dohh

Part number 207-4201. I'm sure my friend ordered the right ones?

Forgot to mention head is flush with the block
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