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Trouble starting when cold.

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awdtalon21

15+ Year Contributor
152
0
Mar 4, 2007
St. Charles, Illinois
Ok every morning his car wont start it justs cranks over after like 5 minutes of cranking it starts.
the thinks i have checked

transistor
coil pack
fuel pump
fpr
compression
boost leaks
plugs and wires good
o2 was not cycling, but i fixed that
it is getting spark and fuel
ecu is good

probably other stuff i cant remember right now. Im just running out of ideas.
 
Try replaceing the ECU tempture sensor ( the 2 prong one ) at the base of the thermostat housing. When it packes up it makes the ECU think the engine is allready warm and sets the mixture lean.
 
is that the one that is next to the single prong the one that make the gauge work?
 
Mine takes a while to start first thing in the morning as well, though I'm fairly certain it's because of my Aeromotive AFPR and Walbro fuel pump. The stock Denso pump has an integral check valve, while the Walbro (apparently) does not, which I can only assume allows the fuel to back out of the lines. I'm planning to install a check valve to see if that will solve the problem in my case.

You really should fill out your car profile, in any case.
 
this is my brothers car not mine.
i have changed the fuel pump and cas with ones i know are good.

keep the ideas coming. please
 
this morning i cant even get it to start, its gonna need a jump now. just so you know how bad this is.
 
My Talon AWD is having the same problem starting in the morning, but in the afternoon it'll start. If you figure out what the problem is can you please let me know.
 
I've been haveing the same problem. but from reading around on here i'm thinking the cause of mine is due to the temp sensor connection,, I reciently did some work cleaning up the engine bay and noticed that on the two wire temp sensor that the harness that plugs into the sensor is missing and the last owner just pushed the wires on and electric taped them in place. I noticed with my dsmlink that my temps were bouncing all over the place and last night it finally threw a code for a bad connection at the sensor. so i guess later today i'll solider them on and fill the connector with apoxy to seal it.. hopefully this works because i cant stand sitting in a freezing cold car first thing in the morning trying to get the car to start. good luck figuring yours out.
 
I've been haveing the same problem. but from reading around on here i'm thinking the cause of mine is due to the temp sensor connection,, I reciently did some work cleaning up the engine bay and noticed that on the two wire temp sensor that the harness that plugs into the sensor is missing and the last owner just pushed the wires on and electric taped them in place. I noticed with my dsmlink that my temps were bouncing all over the place and last night it finally threw a code for a bad connection at the sensor. so i guess later today i'll solider them on and fill the connector with apoxy to seal it.. hopefully this works because i cant stand sitting in a freezing cold car first thing in the morning trying to get the car to start. good luck figuring yours out.
this is a good point. i had simular problem. it was cold start sensor.car would just crank when cold but fire right up when warm. i got new sensor at auto zone for 25$. never had a problem again.
 
just wanted to let you know I fixed my wireing the other day and have'nt had a problem sense. like iluvmy4g63 said. $25 for a new one. I'd just replace it and see what happens,I'd be willing to bet it'll fix your problem.. besides it's only $25. where im from that's less than a half tank of gas... good luck
 
i just did the 6 bolt swap on my 2g and have the same problem. i dont have any wires to that temp sensor, ive gotta find where its coming from but where would it be coming from?
 
Rather then starting a new thread I'm just going to continue this thread. On cold starts (and I don't mean cold outside, I mean the engine has been off for a several hours to overnight) I have trouble starting my car. I have to crank it for a good 5-10 seconds before it even starts to fire. Then I turn the key off and try again and it stumbles a few times more before firing up. Once it's running it runs like a dream.

CTS is brand new and has 100% normal readings verified by ECMlink V3.

If its a warm start (engine off for a few hours or less) it will fire right up instantly.

I have no DTC's.

This problem started about a year ago and it doesn't matter what the outside temperature is.

When I turn the engine off it loses fuel pressure instantly.

My fuel system is a Walbro 255 rewired (~5 years old) -> stock fuel feed line (~20 years old) -> Mitsubishi OEM fuel filter (~3 months old)-> -6 AN feed line with a fuel pressure gauge (~3 months old) -> stock fuel rail with FIC 850 injectors (~1 month old) -> Buschur/SX AFPR (~5 years old) -> stock return line (~20 years old).

I'd really like to get this problem taken care of as it is exceedingly embarrassing cranking my car for 10-15 seconds before it starts when I leave work everyday. Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I read on this thread that the Walbro fuel pumps have a built in one way check valve, can anyone confirm that? If they do is it possible that mine could be messed up, allowing the fuel to return to the tank when the pump is off? Would buying an external fuel feed check valve be a possible solution? Are there any negatives or safety concerns from doing that?

I've also heard that it could be the AFPR. Is there anyway to fix that? Our fuel system is supposed to stay pressurized even when the pump is off, right?

I'd really like to get this issue resolved ASAP. Thanks!

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Aeromotive -6 AN High Flow One Way Check Valve
 
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