Flutter

[DimondStar]

Bov flutter is what I got at low rpm. Ive been reading up on it but every one seems to say diferent things on diferent fourms. I have a Greedy RS Bov (resurculated) that I have installed. It seems to be that the harder I set it at the more flutteter, so I soften and soften and soften untill the bolt is almost out. Still no fix. I have done about 10 different runs on diffrent settings but I still canot figure it out.WTF

 

[emoguitarboy]

How much boost are you running? How do you have your RS setup? There should be one line coming off of the Intake Manifold (the stock line) this goes to the upper (bigger) nipple. You should have a T coming off the line that runs to your wastegate (before the boost controller) this goes to the lower nipple. this should equalize the pressure a until the intake manifold has a vacuum then the boost help push the BOV open.

Are you running stock piping to/from your intercooler? I'd suggest taking off all of your intercooler piping and check it for blockage, then perform a boost leak test.

 

[DimondStar]

How much boost are you running? How do you have your RS setup? There should be one line coming off of the Intake Manifold (the stock line) this goes to the upper (bigger) nipple. You should have a T coming off the line that runs to your wastegate (before the boost controller) this goes to the lower nipple. this should equalize the pressure a until the intake manifold has a vacuum then the boost help push the BOV open.

Are you running stock piping to/from your intercooler? I'd suggest taking off all of your intercooler piping and check it for blockage, then perform a boost leak test.

Im running 17lbs and I just cut off my stock flange and welded a flange to fit the rs. I do have a vacume line and it is conected but it is not t'ed off. The reasion Is because if I do T it off then I can not controll boost. All IC pipes are stock. I did notice that when I took off my UICP there was some oil in there.( Dont know if that has to do with any thing.)

 

[Littlebeeper]

where is the vacuum line coming from?

 

[n55long]

He doesn't need to tee it off into the wastegate because the stock j pipe has a vac line going from it to the wastegate and the boost control solenoid. Just to ask, is your BOV a knockoff? I had a knockoff and it did that and switched to a real one but then switched to a ssqv

 

[DimondStar]

na its not a knock off it the real deal. I dono??? Im so frusterated with it, do you think it could be that I welded a flange onto my uicp??? Should I just go buy a new pipe from dejon??

 

[DimondStar]

Is there any one out there that could help me.?

 

[numlock666]

how do you have it hooked up right now?? the upper fittng the the RS is the one that opens it once it sees vac, so this hookes up to were the stock BOV hooked up on the intake mani. The lower fitting is for Quick release, you dont really need this hooked up. But if you want it needs a boost reference, but try it without the lower one hooked up.

 

[DimondStar]

I tried to take it out and it just rolls my idle.

 

[numlock666]

I don't know but, never had a problem installing BOV's. Having a blow off valve shouldn't mess with your idle at all. Take a Pic of you install. I don't know if its the same on the RS but the type-R has two nipples. One fore vac reference to open it when the TB slams shut (upper one on the "cap" of it) and another for quick release (lower one on base/flange of it). What im saying is the upper one (on cap) needs to have one strait vac line, NO splices/cuts/tee in it going from the BOV to the Intake manifold (big aluminum part near firewall with throttle body attached to it, with 4 runners going to head) That is all, one vac line. Welding on the flange takes more effort than hooking up the vac line to make it work.

 

[matthewdesigns]

I just installed an RS and am having the same flutter issues, but only at low/partial throttle. At WOT, mine opens correctly. Is that when yours flutters? Or is it at low/partial throttle? Read the last post here for an understanding of why one's OK and one's bad. I'll be noodling around with mine when it warms up a little (24*F outside right now). I'm also having idle and cut-out problems. The engine is cutting out like it's not recirculated, but it is. I have the adjustment set about halfway out.

The RS has no lower nipple, only the top one. There is a bleeder hole on the bottom half. I have mine hooked up to the stock vacuum line, which has a tee for the mbc (I know, not the best way, but cest la vie). I plan to rectify that shortly...been too lazy to pull the LICP and tap it....my Evo3 has no housing nipple.

I'm going to open up the BOV and pull one of the springs to see if that helps the flutter (if it has two springs, like my old type S did). Then hopefully the re-routed vac lines and the spring mod will eliminate it altogether, but as stated in the above link, it's more of an annoyance at partial throttle than a danger.

 

[matthewdesigns]

Pulled the hat off yesterday to rotate it. Removed the small spring, backed the adjuster out all the way, then screwed in 5 full turns. I did not re-route any of my vac lines. So far, no more flutter at any rpm/throttle load, crazy idle is gone, and I'm not cutting out any more.

I'm going to tighten the adjuster until those symptoms return, then back off to the last good position.