Ran down the track tonight and am pissed! What is wrong?

[EagleTalonTim]

Finally, for the first time I get to take my car to the track. Before I left, I checked my timing and adjusted my boost controller to 10psi since my car does nothing but black smoke the entire time I am at WOT. I am running the stock 13b that comes on the auto's. The timing is at -7 BTDC. I am running NGKBPR63S plugs or something like that.. I know they are 6 something. They are less than one month old and so are the plug wires.
The track is one hour away, so I hit the interstate and set my cruise at 70. When I got to the track, I popped my hood to check everything again and my manifold and turbo was glowing! I just left it running and let it cool down. That is just one of my problems. When I finally got to go down the strip, I noticed that my boost gauge hit 20psi, then dropped right back down to 10psi where I set it. It only happens when I take off. Since my car is an Auto, the boost should stay the whole time down the track. I got one of my friends to watch me as I went down the track and they said it was black smoking the entire way down. Needless to say, me best run was a 16.1 at 86mph. My N/T was faster than that!!! What should I check for??? What is causing all my problems?

Thanks in advance!
Tim

 

[DSMopar]

You're pig rich, the exhaust is hot because your burning so much after the exhaust valve. Boost leaks?

 

[EagleTalonTim]

absolutely no boost leaks. it will hold pressure for about 5 minutes before going all the way down.

 

[pitbull419]

This might help on why its not staying at 10psi.

http://members.shaw.ca/costall/1000Q/

 

[EagleTalonTim]

boost creep huh..... Would this be a wastegate problem? I used the wastegate that came on the JDM motor when I got it in. Why is my turbo car way slower than my N/T? I was running mid 15's in my N/T with the stock 6 bolt, Cold Air Intake, and a full header w/ downpipe? Why am I always getting black smoke no matter what I have the boost set at? I have never hit fuel cut either. Brand new plugs/wires, and K&N air filter.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Timing should be 5 BTDC. To adjust the timing on 1Gs, remove the cap from the timing connector, and connect it to a ground on the body of your car. Start the car and check the timing with a timing light. This should have reset it back to 5* BTDC. The timing connector is on the firewall, to the right [if looking at it from the front-end] of the wiper motor. Heres a pic of the connector...

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As for the black smoke. Is your BOV recirculated?
Are you running an actermarket fuel pump?
Check the vacuum line on the FPR.
Are you running larger injector's such as some out of a manual DSM?

For your boosting problem it sounds like boost spike to me.

Is the stock boost control solenoid still attached even though you have a boost controller? Do you have a MBC, or an EBC? How is it hooked up?

 

[pitbull419]

I would look into your boost not staying where you set it.Then look into the smoke.
The smoke could be bad turbo seals.
Good time to upgrade to a 14b. I know somebody that has one

You not hitting fuel cut sounds like a timing problem.Scroll down one more article on the link i posted.
Unless the previous owner did something to the computer(which I doubt since its pretty much stock)

^^^^Beat me to it.

 

[EagleTalonTim]

I did set the timing by grounding the ECU timing connector. It is 7 BTDC not -7 not sure why I put that

The BOV is recirculated.

Still running stock Fuel Pump.

Running the Injectors that came on the JDM motor. Blue Top. I have a manual trans ECU in my auto to run the injectors.

I have a manual boost controller and the hose coming from the intake side of the turbo is connected to the bottom of the MBC and the wastegate is connected to the side of the MBC.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

How could bad turbo seal's be causeing black smoke? There is no fuel going into the turbo, besides through the exhaust turbine.
Blue on acceleration is generally the rings or turbo seals. Blue on deceleration, is probably the valve stem seals. White on acceleration is most likely the head gasket or turbo seals ( wet turbo like the 13g's, 14b's, 16g's, ect...).Black on acceleration: Fuel (running rich or running without a cat)

 

[EagleTalonTim]

Here is a simple way of how I have the MBC hooked up.
___________
|__________|---------------Intake
|
Wastegate

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Thats probably your rich problem. Blue top's are 450cc injector's (used in manual turbo'd DSMs). Auto turbo'd DSMs use 390cc injector's (white top), and you are probably using the a/t ECU which is keeping the injector open too long because it think's they are 390cc instead of the actual 450's. Get a set of 390cc's and swap them in, and drive it aropund for a little while, and see if it stop's blowing black.

 

[EagleTalonTim]

I did set the timing by grounding the ECU timing connector. It is 7 BTDC not -7 not sure why I put that

The BOV is recirculated.

Still running stock Fuel Pump.

Running the Injectors that came on the JDM motor. Blue Top. I have a manual trans ECU in my auto to run the injectors.

I have a manual boost controller and the hose coming from the intake side of the turbo is connected to the bottom of the MBC and the wastegate is connected to the side of the MBC.

I am running a Manual ECU

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Its also probably going slow because the o2 sensor's are telling the ECU something is wrong, so the LTFT, and STFT are probably negative (ECU trying to pull fuel), and the ECU maybe retarding the timing so no serious damage occur's.

EDIT** Hmmmm...well I was hoping that would have been your rich problem.

What's your fuel pressure at? And is the vacuum hose on the FPR still hooked up, and not cracked?

 

[nytescion]

are you saying intake of the turbo?.......as in before the turbo or after?

 

[EagleTalonTim]

the connector is after the turbo.

Yes, the FPR is stock and hooked up with no vacuum leaks.

 

[EagleTalonTim]

forgot to add that I am running No Cat. just straight 2 1/2 to a brand new turbo muffler

 

[DSMopar]

Have you checked the fuel pressure just for kicks? Done a compression test lately?

 

[SOADweskey]

If you are really concerned with going fast in your car you should get a wideband O2 to actually see how your fuel mixture is. And then since you aren't running stock injectors even though you have the m/t ecu I would get an AFC so you can tune your fuel better and you will be set to get a little bigger turbo.

For the time being even a logger or narrow band meter to see what the voltage output of your stock O2 is would be a good idea so you can tell if your stock O2 is dead or not.

 

[EagleTalonTim]

I am going to replace my O2 sensor and get a DSMlink as soon as I can. I have not checked the compression yet...just been working all the time and have nowhere to take my car to test it myself. The O2 sensor was stuck and I still have not been able to remove it. I am going to have to take it to a shop to get them to remove it for me

 

[dsmsucks]

forgot to add that I am running No Cat. just straight 2 1/2 to a brand new turbo muffler

Yeah if you have 450cc in the auto you WILL run rich. Ill bet the compression is low to! 16.1? Man thats slow as balls. What were your 60times??

 

[98mitsuGSX-SD]

Its also probably going slow because the o2 sensor's are telling the ECU something is wrong, so the LTFT, and STFT are probably negative (ECU trying to pull fuel), and the ECU maybe retarding the timing so no serious damage occur's.

EDIT** Hmmmm...well I was hoping that would have been your rich problem.

What's your fuel pressure at? And is the vacuum hose on the FPR still hooked up, and not cracked?

When a car is going WOT (open loop) the STFT and LTFT don't come into play. They are only used for when the car is in closed looped operation.

The black smoke your seeing from the exhaust is probably combusted gases that would of been converted if you had a cat installed on your car.

With no log to review of your runs we can only speculate what is causing your bad 1/4mi. time.

Do all the checks people have asked and make sure your car is put back to factory specs.

Your running a pretty low amount of boost. I would think you would set it at or around 14psi.

 

[pitbull419]

Yeah if you have 450cc in the auto you WILL run rich. Ill bet the compression is low to! 16.1? Man thats slow as balls. What were your 60times??

Not if he is running the m/t ecu to compensate for them.
Turbos can blow black smoke if the seals are bad.I have a big 16g sitting rite here that was blowing black smoke.Replaced it with a new one and no more smoke.

 

[TurboAnything]

If you are runnig rich you should try a different MAF yours mite be reading wrong. Also if you swap back to the stock computer and injectors it mite help shead some light on the problem if it gos away then you have a computer problem. Did you check the caps on the ECU to see if they were leaking?

 

[TheMadCheshire]

Fuel pressure is too high. Manual dsms run at 36-38psi with the vacuum hose disconnected. Auto dsms run at 41-46 with vacuum disconnected. These numbers are according to my haynes manual.
The manual ecu is using fuel trims for the 450s like it should, but at a lower pressure which it therefore needs to open the injectors longer. The same trims at a higher pressure will put out more fuel. The fuel pressure regulator is set higher(being stock auto), therefore you're getting way more fuel.
I'd swap out the fuel pressure regulator with aftermarket or a TURBO manual. A SAFC kind of accomplishes the same thing.
Goodluck!


Edit: The manifold glowing is normal. This is why you should let your turbo cool after long periods of driving. All that exhaust heat gets built up right at the turbine.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

When a car is going WOT (open loop) the STFT and LTFT don't come into play. They are only used for when the car is in closed looped operation.

Yes I know this. He said accelerating, nothing about WOT, and he can still check STFT, and LTFT for when he is cruising because the problem is most likely all the time, but he only notices it when he is accelerating.

TheMadCheshire thats some good info. Didn't think about that.