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so close, Anyone care to comment?

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blackgst256

15+ Year Contributor
147
0
Nov 30, 2005
Milford, Pennsylvania
Come on wiseman and proven members i know you can help me throguh my time of need.LOL OK I have been fighting with this things for way to long now and i have narrowed down my search to this. I did a 6boltswap to my car and i finally got it running but it runs like garbage at half power. Did a whole bunch of tests, swapping parts and everything to get to this. For some reason cylinder 1 and 3 have fuel cause i tested the injector harness and the injectors and i have power in the harness and when i manually ran the injectors with the tester they fired. They also have spark so no worry there. But if i unplug either of the two while the car is running it doesnt effect it at all, but if i take off 2 or 4 it will get choppy and die. This also puzzles me because the two that are not working are on to different coils. So im guessing a signal is missing somewhere. If i left out any info you need let me know or if something doesnt make sense im sorry i just have had it with this swap and im about to drive it into the river if I cant find out whats going on. Oh its also wired correctly as it says on the magnus site. Thanks
 
1. Are your 1 & 4 on the same coil, list your wire orders from left to right on both engine and coils.

2. Have you done a compression test on the 6 bolt?
 
Which diagrams were you using? Which ECU do you have in the car? How many questions can I ask? ;)
The 90 CAS may be incorrect as well. Most of the threads I have read suggest using the blacktop CAS from 93-94 models. Of course these aren't 6-bolts, but they do use the same type of sensor.
 
my coils are stock 2g 4123. with the cylinders starting from the tbelt being 1234. Compression is the same across the board. I have a 95 ecu thats stock out of my car. I used magnus and rre, and i have also looked over this site about 4 million times and cant find this problem anywhere. Thanks for the quick response guys
 
my coils are stock 2g 4123. with the cylinders starting from the tbelt being 1234. Compression is the same across the board. I have a 95 ecu thats stock out of my car. I used magnus and rre, and i have also looked over this site about 4 million times and cant find this problem anywhere. Thanks for the quick response guys
So you didn't swap plug wires like said in the Magnus article?
 
Could you have gotten the wrong connections when you switched the wires? Have you checked that those plugs are firing at all?

And please be patient while waiting for responses. It may even be a couple of days before someone figures it out. Likewise, it is difficult to really pinpoint these types of problems without being there.

EDIT: Try finding a '90 ecu and swapping it out just to test. If you could find somebody that has one just to try it out, you might be better off than trying ten million possible things, yet not that.
 
Also, if you do it right, you will have to switch around your plug wires on your coil pack. Instead of 4123, it might look like, 1432. Thats how mine looks and it worked just fine. I also followed the instuctions on changing the pins on the plug for the ecu. You will need to make a new wiring harness for your cas to plug into the stock cam and crank sensor plugs.
Make sure to take your time and do it right!
 
Try this link

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g95-96M2.htm

I hope that you switched your injector pins on the plug to the ecu. Also, read threw this again.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g.htm

Beat me to it. Oh and whomever said you need a blacktop hall effect sensor, that is wrong. In theory, the blacktop one is better, the the older style green tops work just fine. I have ran both on my 7bolt, noticed it ran better with the blacktop. Then again, 7bolts use a hall-effect CAS to begin with.

You definitely need to switch out your wires on the ECU if you haven't done so. It's kind of tricky. What I did is I just cut part of a ECU harness off a random car and spent like 15 minutes practicing on popping them out. Also I'd recomend labeling each wire with what you switch it with, and taping it. (e.g; PIN 1 to PIN 15) That way if you ever have to go back to original wiring, it can easily be done.

Edit:

Also, if you do it right, you will have to switch around your plug wires on your coil pack. Instead of 4123, it might look like, 1432. Thats how mine looks and it worked just fine. I also followed the instuctions on changing the pins on the plug for the ecu. You will need to make a new wiring harness for your cas to plug into the stock cam and crank sensor plugs.
Make sure to take your time and do it right!

That is not needed. He has already stated that he swapped the blue wires on the coil pack. This allows you to keep the same firing order. Although, this may be a different case if he's using 1g coil packs. I don't believe it is though.

Also if he's made it this far (coil wire swap), then I assume he's made the harness and has it plugged in. Make sure you did it right. I made a stupid mistake and printed the instructions in black and white, so the yellow line for one of the wires didn't show up. Had to untape everything and get the soldering gun back out. The CPS plug will have all three going to the 1GCAS and the CAS only has the middle wire going to the 1GCAS.
 
I followed those instructions on the site and i did all of the wiring on it well and its all to what it says. This is why I'm having such a hard time understanding why it doesnt work because the wiring is to spec. peypey's ride if 1 and 4 are on the same coil and 2 and3 are on the same coil wouldnt the rewiring job already take care of that and the ecu pin swap. I thought if anything it said to switch 1,4 with 2,3 cause of the swap
 
So is it basically running on only 2 cylinders?

Could possibly be a bad coil pack/transistor pack. Or do you think this is strictly fuel-related?
 
I just double checked over the pin swap and that is also correct. That was a pain trying to get them out but my friend who has his own shop did it real quick for me.LOL He has a 90 supra and just swapped a 2jz into and has done a number of other projects and he cant understand why it doesnt worked, and its very hard to stump him. The 800 rwhp the supra has now shows.LOL
 
EDIT: Try finding a '90 ecu and swapping it out just to test. If you could find somebody that has one just to try it out, you might be better off than trying ten million possible things, yet not that.
A 90' ECU in a 95'? Good luck on making that work. :)

peypey's ride said:
Also, if you do it right, you will have to switch around your plug wires on your coil pack. Instead of 4123, it might look like, 1432.
4123 and 1432 are exactly identical, no change there.

MountainDew said:
You definitely need to switch out your wires on the ECU if you haven't done so. It's kind of tricky. What I did is I just cut part of a ECU harness off a random car and spent like 15 minutes practicing on popping them out. Also I'd recomend labeling each wire with what you switch it with, and taping it. (e.g; PIN 1 to PIN 15) That way if you ever have to go back to original wiring, it can easily be done.
No need to cut anything, just unclip the pins and pull them out of the plug, all you need is a small screw driver like the ones used for fixing glasses. Furthermore, not swapping injector wires should only make it run a little rough sometimes, shouldn't prevent any of the cylinders not to fire at all, I suspect this is a ignition issue.
 
I know what your saying blackgst256, I thought about that to when I did all the work, but for sum reason thats just how my firing order is. I have switched them back around just to check and it idled like crap! Every car is different, so what worked for me maybe different for anyone else.

Now back to the issue, he had compression. Do you have spark on all 4 spark plugs?

Edit: I am sorry Oldman, i have my coil pack mount on the fire wall so it threw me off! (retarded me) my firing order is 2341 now.
 
yeah its only running on 2 cylinders 2 and 4. I had a half of tank of gas in it 6 months ago when i started this, and after i tried for a day to get it started i sprayed some carb choke cleaner in by the throttle body and it started right up so i put some fresh gas in about 7 gallons and a solvent or something my friend says help with the water build up in the tank if it sat for a bit and it got to where it is now. My friend told me to burn all the gas out and put all new gas in but it wont even drive good enough to do that and i dont know how to drain the tank. I get spark in all 4 plug wires to if that helps
 
what would cause only one cylinder to fire on each coil pack?

Are you sure it's only one cylinder on each coil pack? I had a similar problem, only 2 cylinders firing. Mine was strictly CAS related but I don't think this is the case for you. Double check and see if the 2 cylinders that are firing on the same coil pack or not. I also know the coolant sensor can make a startup be picky, but I wouldn't think it'd allow it to fire 2 cylinders though. However, this is a DSM.. anything is possible! LOL
 
Also i swapped out my transistor once and my coil pack and that didnt help much, But that was before i got over the fuel issue i had. Another thing to is it will not start unless im on the gas while its cranking and i have to keep on the gas for a minute or 2 so it will idle or else it just dies. The idle i believe is at stock 750 and maybe with the cams "264/272" it will effect it some but i wouldnt think enough so it wouldnt idle on initial startup until it warms up a little
 
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