Resolved 1G No Spark help!

[pwayzjellyroll]

So I now have no spark. I put the #1 piston to TDC, took out the CAS and spun the piece on it. I hear spark, but there is none when the car is trying to start. Does this mean my coil pack is bad? If so, what steps are involved to change it, my Haynes manual isn't to descriptive on the process.

Any help/input is appreciated. Also, for a while it was running on two cylinders. Now nothing seems to get spark. I have two different CAS's they both make a noise which seems to be coming form near the coil pack when I spin them.

 

[architechnik]

Why do you think there is no spark? This sounds like there is something else that is having problems, not necessarily the spark.
Make sure you have the wiring in the correct order and the fuel is delivering. When you take the plugs back out, do you smell gasoline?


EDIT: Hey, it's my 100th post!

 

[pwayzjellyroll]

The wiring is correct and there is fuel. It was working fine for a while then it started becoming intermittent. It would start, then it wouldn't. It would start, run on three cylinders. I would mess with the wires where they connect to the coil it would work (The wires were replaced still did it after). Then it wouldn't start at all. Then it started on two cylinders. Now it won't start at all again.

When I took the #1 plug out to put it to TDC and spin the thing on the CAS I heard a clicking. I put a wire into the plug and put it near some metal, saw no spark though. Tried a different wire and no spark either. So I'm not sure what's wrong really. I'm so lost I've been like three weeks without the car right now.

 

[architechnik]

It could be the CAS from the sound of it, but try getting your coil pack tested. It's worth it to avoid buying a whole new one, unless you have a source for a cheap, used one.

 

[pwayzjellyroll]

Well see that's the reason I'm confused. I just got another CAS from a member on here. They both make the same click noise from or near I'm not sure the coil pack. I was told the one he had was in working condition. So how do I go about testing/getting my coils tested? I need a voltmeter correct? Oh yeah and, the CAS I received won't start the car either.

 

[alex1090]

Sounds like your Ignitor is bad. That clicking noise your hearing is the injectors. When you spins the cas the injectors will pulse and the fuel pump should come on. If you are getting fuel then it sounds like your cas is fine. Its either gonna be the ignitor or coil pack.

 

[pwayzjellyroll]

Sounds like your Ignitor is bad. That clicking noise your hearing is the injectors. When you spins the cas the injectors will pulse and the fuel pump should come on. If you are getting fuel then it sounds like your cas is fine. Its either gonna be the ignitor or coil pack.

Is there an easy way for me determine if it's the ignitor or the coil pack?

 

[architechnik]

Here's a link that has some good instructions about half-way through the post... just look for the pic.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=130662

The post has a great discussion about other things as well.

 

[92awddsm]

Before you replace the ignitor/power transistor, pull the ECU out and check for leaking caps and/or damaged circuit board. Sounds like you have the typical case of a failed ECU. Contact Steve for ECU repair.

 

[pwayzjellyroll]

Before you replace the ignitor/power transistor, pull the ECU out and check for leaking caps and/or damaged circuit board. Sounds like you have the typical case of a failed ECU. Contact Steve for ECU repair.

Where is the ECU located, and how hard is it to pull out? Once I do so I can post pics. Any ideas on what ECU repairs usually costs? Money is tight, so I can't just be spending a way.

 

[19Eclipse90]

If you pull out the ECU and check it, it may not be bad, so it won't cost you anything to take it out and check. It's in the center console behind the radio.

You need to remove the carpet pieces from both sides of the center console (3 screws on the passenger side, 2 on the driver's side). Once you get here, the ECU itself is held in by 3 10mm bolts, 2 on the passenger side and 1 on the driver's side. It is held up/mounted vertically. Before you take the bolts out, unplug the three connections going into the bottom of the ECU. The bolts will help hold it in place making it easier to wiggle the connections out.

Once you get it unbolted and remove the connections, it slides out on it's side through the passenger's side. Do that, then open it up and look for any black marks (indicate an explosion of some sort) on the cover you pull off or any indication of a liquid leak on the board itself. Also note any weird smells it may have like that of fish.

 

[pwayzjellyroll]

So I pulled the ECU and it was fine. After a bit more research I came to find that sometimes the power transistor cable pulls out because they are so short. Well it did, I pushed it back in no real problems. I'm quite satisfied myself. Thanks for the help everyone.