NEW Spark plugs every month!!!

[asiahispanico]

I have a issue with having to change spark plugs every month, i use NGK BPR6ES gapped .028. I got the 6 bolt swap done (completely rebuilt full longblock) and a big 16 (it holds down 11-13 psi at low boost and about 15-17psi on high, apexi gt spec 3'-3.5' turboback exhaust hahn fmic, turbo xs bov (recirculated) and turbo xs dual stage mbc. I know the fuel pump is upgraded because i can hear it whining loudly. I know when i changed plugs, the car runs good, then about a month-3 months later (depending on how i drive it) it starts to buck and misfire (popping ANNOYING jerks) when i start boosting. I hold 19-21 inches of vaccuum at idle and it spools nicely when i have fresh plugs in there. I dont have an upgraded FPR, or fuel rail or anything as far as that fuel pump. I know fuel cut cant really be possible because one of my vacuum lines on the j pipe for the mbc split one day my boost spiked to 22 psi and car had no trouble flying!!! the only thing that was hurting it was that my clamps on the intercooler pipes could not keep it all togetherr!!! My spark plugs get fouled badly like im talking black all around the electrode and tip of the plug thread. Im wondeirng if a AFPR or a msd ignition box is what could fix my problem but I was wondering if one of you dsm wisemen could help me with this issue. Oh and also if i cruise for too long it brings up the p0300 code for random cylinder misfire, but i know thats because of the 6 bolt swap. any help is much appreciated.

 

[silver bullit]

You have a boost leak that is allowing you car to see rich/lean conditions, leaking fuel injectors, if your timing is not been done correctly, also knock and detonation.

What type of fuel you use? Have you tried a step colder plugs? What are your air fuel gauge readings or exhaust temps.

 

[asiahispanico]

well i have a narrow a/f ratio autometer gauge that only seems to work at night and it always gives me rich conditions whenever istep on the gas, its never running lean. boost leak huh? interesting wouldnt i set off a CEL with eitehr a boost leak or timing issue?

 

[asiahispanico]

i use 93 octane

 

[talonalex92]

Im not positive on the 2g's but I know a boost leak wont set a CEL on a 1g. Its like a vacuum leak but backwards and they definatly dont set a CEL, your car just tries to compensate for it.

 

[snowborder714]

A boost leak won't cause a CEL on a 2G.

Do a boost leak test. Narrowbands are at least good enough to tell you if you're running really lean or pig rich. So if yours is reading pig rich, it's probably telling the truth.

If your clamps can't keep the IC piping on, that may be a big problem. When you do a boost leak test, this will help you find out if they really are a problem area. If so, get some good t-bolt clamps to hold that piping on.

You might also want to pull the fuel pump and check and see what you have in there. If you happen to have a Walbro 255, you'll want to get an AFPR since the stock one is probably getting overrun.

An AFPR or aftermarket ignition won't fix the issue.

Also, why don't you do the potentiometer mod to fix the CEL because of the 6 bolt swap?

 

[timot]

is the spark plug condition the same across all cylinders or, just one?

 

[asiahispanico]

it is the exact same across the board. rich on all of them. I heard alot of pros and cons with the potentiometer mod. i just really cant cruise in the car, im constantly boosting and letting off boosting and letting off, it seems to keep from the stuttering that comes with the swap. i think it might be either the clamps arent sufficient, or the throttle body shafts could be leaking air. IM not quite sure but i am working on the boost leak test, but it fouling the plugs is the sign of running rich am i correct? im new to this and im learning as i go so please easy with the flaming . I just changed out the plugs for now. What about the turbo xs bov? i havent really heard anything good about those.

 

[timot]

yeah the black is a rich condition, colder plugs will do that is used for daily driving because they don't operate hot enough to burn off the carbon left. However, I dont think that is the real problem

 

[snowborder714]

What about the turbo xs bov? i havent really heard anything good about those.

What do you want to know? A lot of people on this forum run either the HKS SSQV, a 1G bov, or a Greddy bov.

You shouldn't need to go to a colder plug because you aren't running high enough boost to need to. You're only on a 16g and running normal boost for that turbo. The 6's should be perfectly fine for you.

 

[asiahispanico]

i want to know whats wrong wit hthe stupid car, this is getting so annoying . It buk violently when i start to boost i mean VIOLENTLY. i justp ut in the new plugs (BPR6ES gapped .028) and its still doing it, im holding 19-21 inches of vacuum, could my FPR be failing? im at a lost im about to do a boost leak test and after that i dont k now.

 

[Bmxr152]

Try the colder plugs! Whats is going to hurt besides let you run more boost without detonation? BTW i loved my Greddy RS , held 28psi very well no complaints there. Like everyone is saying it sounds like your getting a boost leak which will also cause knock. Your turbo it pushing really really hard to try to make up for that leak, which in turn causes very high compressor temps, which in turn causes higher intake temps which will creat knock. 1 step colder plugs, and boost leak test should be your first trys. Obviously the boost leak test first though.

 

[Bmxr152]

OH wait you said that there might be an aftermarket fuel pump right? Anyways if its a wally 255 you might also be overrunning the FPR if its the stock one.

 

[asiahispanico]

wouldnt a boost leak show up on my gauge? i kno its an aftermarket fuel pump, whether its a 190 or 255 is beyond my knowledge i can hear it whining, if im dumping too much fuel would the ecu pull timing?

 

[silver bullit]

wouldnt a boost leak show up on my gauge? i kno its an aftermarket fuel pump, whether its a 190 or 255 is beyond my knowledge i can hear it whining, if im dumping too much fuel would the ecu pull timing?

No and unless you pull the pump to make sure you have what you say you have. And no to the last question

 

[Bmxr152]

Boost leaks are undetectible on a boost gauge. Thats why we do boost leaks tests and not boost gauge CHECKS. I would check your fuel pump and see what kind it is just to make sure. The ecu will only pull timing if your knocking, some will argue that fuel can cause knock but in my experiences it only helps it.

 

[asiahispanico]

im sorry what i meant by boost leak on my boost gauge is by my vacuum at idle, well i unplugged the battery and reset the ecu and its still doing it, BUT i noticed my vacuum at idle (after the car warmed up) was sitting at about 16-18 inches of vacuum and my idle was fluctuating from 680-980, i did figure out why the car jerked violently, it was becuase my throttle cable had slipped off of the plate behind the throttle body! so i slipped it back on and tightened the cable took it for a drive at low boost i took off and i noticed at around 4500-5000 rpm it stuttered alittle bit, like it was too rich. It only bucks if i go WOT other then that its somewhat driveable on the street. I did notice that before i had the stock exhaust removed (which the previous owner removed the stock cat and resonator and welded a piece of aluminum pipe and welded the entire exhaust together) that the car never really exposed any boost leaks THIS bad. Could the 3-3.5 exhaust be exposing my boost leaks because of the turbos now free to boost higher? i know from what you guys are telling me, boost leaks donnt throw CEL, but i do know fuel trims, so if it was a fuel system issue it would throw a CEL, well it hasnt thrown one yet. so im leaning towards the boost leak, its showing the same symptoms i read about throughout the forums, and im not running that big a turbo to hit fuel cut at 14-15 psi. sorry for the long post but i really appreciate the help you guys, thanks

 

[snowborder714]

Just do a boost leak test.

 

[MrBoxx]

Do a damn boost leak test already. That's most likely what's causing your stuttering, your rich conditions, and most of your other problems.

and im not running that big a turbo to hit fuel cut at 14-15 psi.

Really? Maybe your turbo is producing 30psi, but due to a massive leak, you're only seeing 15 at the manifold. That would definitely cause a little fuel cut.

Do a boost leak test, get an AFPR. Report back the results.

 

[tkelly27]

Do a damn boost leak test already. That's most likely what's causing your stuttering, your rich conditions, and most of your other problems.



Really? Maybe your turbo is producing 30psi, but due to a massive leak, you're only seeing 15 at the manifold. That would definitely cause a little fuel cut.

Do a boost leak test, get an AFPR. Report back the results.

+1

Boost leak testers are easy to make (or buy) and use. You're probably getting FPR overrun too. That'll get you some lovely black plugs.

 

[asiahispanico]

thanks you guys, yeah i wasnt quite clear on the boost leak issue not showing up on the boost gauge, i was just going off of my one time experience with the intercooler pipe blowing off and dropping my vacuum to 5inches . Im making one sometime either today or tomorrow. now if i do have a 190 fuel pump then the stock fpr should be fine, but if its 255 i need a afpr, correct? slowboy sells a full afpr and gauge kit for around 235 with everything i need, is there anything else you guys recommend?

 

[asiahispanico]

did the boost leak test, leaking at 7 psi, i couldnt even pump the tire pump anymore as it was leaking at the throttle body at 7 psi. I was pumping like a mad man and thats as much as i could hold before it would release. i got a spare throttlebody that already has a iac motor in it, the only thing id have to reuse is the tps sensor. I see white marks on the tps sensor like someone has marked it off before, question is can i just use the markings and swap out the throttle bodies or will i have to use the vfaq way?

 

[Evil_speedracer]

If your A/F regulator gauge only works at night, you may have it wired wrong. It sounds like its connected to the headlights if it only works at night.

 

[oldman]

1. Use capitalization where it applies.

2. You have FPR overrun, rich conditions at idle and part throttle.

3. Your TruboXS BOV is probably not re-circulate, rich conditions in between shifts.

4. You have serious boost leaks, rich conditions under boost.

I wonder why you're fouling out your plugs so quickly?

 

[asiahispanico]

The BOV is recirculated, i know the FPR is being overrun and tonight i could hear my leak around the throttle body. Im debating on whether i want to swap out the throttle body with the spare one i have or just have a mechanic change the shaft seals for me. The only issue i have with swapping is that the spare throttle body i have is missing one of the nipples on the top for my egr valve hose.