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Diagnosed with crankwalk :(

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bigbro6785

15+ Year Contributor
87
0
Aug 14, 2006
El Paso, Texas
Well my car hasnt ran strong since the day i bought it. And just recently the car started to have a really loud grinding noise come from the flywheel area and the motor would shut off once i let my rpms fall. I took it to a shop hoping the grinding was just the starter or something simple, but the said I have crank walk So sad. Does this sound like crank walk? I am still in denial. haha. They quoted me 1700 for a new motor and 400 for labor. Thats gonna hurt my pockets.
 
A good way to tell if it's crankwalk is to take a hard left turn. If the clutch drops to the floor when you do this then it is crankwalk. Considering how common crankwalk is on the 2g's the mechanic's probably right.

$400 for labor to drop in an engine? It could be much worse. If this isn't your daily driver you could save some money by finding a used block and building your engine yourself. Then it would also be a better engine when you were done. You can also drop the engine in yourself, it isn't as hard as you would think. You can usually rent an engine crane somewhere for cheap.

For an engine cheaper than that check around. www.nagasakijdmmotors.com is one place I know of that you can get cheap engines with not too many miles on them. I've never used it myself so I don't know how good they are but still, they're there and there are lots of other places like them.

Do some looking around, if you are a little bit patient you can get a better, stronger engine in your car for less than the mechanic would have you pay. :thumb:
 
the car has just under 100k miles. Is there a simple way for me to check for crankwalk? The car is at my house now so I cant have them check it. The car is my daily driver so I cant build another motor. I have a bike but it has been raining her often so I need my car pretty quick.
 
If its your daily, I would just bite the bullet and let the shop do it, $400 labor is a decent price. Then it gets done quick. Or get a beater and build the car up at your leisure
 
looking at prices on motors, the 6 bolt motors are around the same price as the 7 bolts. It would be safer for me to go with the 6 bolt swap, and in know this topic has been beaten to death but what other parts would I need to buy to complete the swap if i buy a complete 6bolt motor (no ecu)? I cant seem to find a list of what other parts I would need (besides a 6 bolt flywheel of course). And would I be able to reuse my uicp, dp and exhaust from my 7bolt on a 6 bolt swap?
 
its rather odd for you to have that many miles and its just now walking. Make sure thats what it is normal walking time happens between 65k and 80k normally once you have cleard that area you are just about home free..
 
Not necessarily true. I've heard of guys walking past 100k miles on several occasions. I'm riding just shy of 100k right now and I'm hoping and praying I don't end up like that.
 
It would seem less likely at your mileage, but even still, always pay attention to possible signs.

I'm doin a 6-bolt swap as soon as I get the opportunity.
 
Ok so I took my car for a spin. I did a few left turn circles in a parking lot and even a few right turn circles, but my clutch pedal did not stick to the floor, it actually didnt even move. I took a pry bar and stuck it between the crank pulley and the motor and tried to wiggle it around but there was no movement that i could tell. Do I not have crankwalk? I got under the car to try to see where the grinding noise is coming from but I cant pin point it. It seems like it is coming from everywhere! One thing that I find strange is that this noise only started right after I got my cam timing adjusted. Any input or suggestions?
 

Says you have to register. I don't live in the UK and I assume its a site geared more toward Evo drivers so I'm not gonna bother.


I'm willing to bet that nearly all 7 bolt cars are beyond spec and most owners don't even know it. I had no symptoms but when I spun a rod bearing my endplay was way beyond spec.

"This is not a guarentee'd 100% cure..." is part of the first line in that thread, if that gives you any indication.

It works by means of the chamfered bearings idea.
 
My motor was way beyond spec. Not only could you pry it back and forth but there was rubber particles all around the crank pully from the lateral forces on the belts. Also ticked when pushing in the clutch as the crank impacted the crank angle sensor. All this on a rebuilt motor with 2000 miles that showed no signs of cw before the rebuild at 80k miles. Russ
 
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