Does the headache continue?

[MountainDew]

Couple of weeks ago I posted some problems I was having. Mainly with smoke under boost but it seemed to go away and just smoke inbetween shifts.

I did multiple compression tests and it looked alright. Typically got 170-180 across the deck. I thought it had to be something with the head.

With having NO experience with DSMs or pulling motors out at all, I got my head off yesterday and dropped it off at a machine shop this morning. The guy called me and said that the guides seem fine and there was nothing really wrong. The seals even seemed fine. But I told him to put the new seals in anyways.

He said that the surface has some knicks or something in it on the number 1 cylinder, so he's going to mill and resurface it. What's weird is, I noticed on one of my pistons that there are a few little knicks on the top of it. My guess is the old timing belt was loose or something and a valve hit it. I don't know I'm not real knowledgeable with this stuff. Timing belt was replaced in March 06' by one of the previous owners.

The headgasket looked fine. The only other problem is my manifold cracked 3 times when I took it off, so I'm SURE I had boost leaks. Also the manifold gasket was pretty toast.

Worst case scenario.. I reassemble the car and it keeps acting up. What could be wrong? I cannot touch the block. I simply do not have the tools, time or money to pull the block out and inspect it/rebuild.

I need the car driveable by thursday. School starts and with my internship, I need a car to commute with everyday.

What else could be wrong? I don't think it is rings. I'm just worried because everything in the head looks fine apparently. Even the headgasket didn't look so bad. Could it possibly be the turbo? I don't think it is because it's a brand new turbo that the seller put on before he sold the car to me. But.. maybe it wasn't broken in and I got on it too much and ####ed the turbo. When I test drove the car and what not, everything seemed fine.

I think I'll just put some royal purple through and run more compression tests after a tank of gas or so. I'm just looking for some ideas incase I'm still experiencing problems after I put the head back on.

(Sorry it was so long.. haha)

 

[EagleTalonTim]

Be more descriptive of your problem. What is the car doing that affects it's performance? It is just the smoke that you are wanting to get rid of? Your compression may look good, but your oil rings could be your verdict. A worn out turbo could be your problem too. If the turbo seals are leaking, you could be getting oil into your exhaust or even intake.

 

[schoffs4]

What color smoke

 

[MountainDew]

At first it was white smoke. It would smoke under high boost and WOT. I added some additive called stop leak and it stopped. Then it started smoking in between shifts and when I let off the gas. I was told it looked more "blueish" and smelt like oil then.

I don't think it's effecting much performance. The powerband seems kind of messed up but nothing real noticeable. What do you mean the oil rings could be the verdict? Oh and yes I'm just wanting to get rid of the smoke. I want a normal running car that I can occasionally push and not feel nervous. I know, most of you will say "well it's a DSM" but you know what I mean.

 

[numlock666]

its the turbo. Just because its "new" doesnt mean its good. I went through 3 "new" OEM alternators in 4 months. Its possible when he installed it he didnt prime it. Its possible he LIED and its not new. My 14B was rebuilt and was on my 7bolt for 2 weeks before it spun a bearing. Then on my rebuilt 6bolt for two weeks and that spun a bearing. Now its on my 2nd 6bolt and the engine is great but the turbo is burning oil like you describe between shifts. Side to side shaft play but little to no in and out. Guess the oil seal is bad. Possible also it can be your oil return line is blocked, it will cause that too.

 

[MrBoxx]

I'm 99% sure your turbo is shot. To test, take off the intake hose/pipe and stick your fingers into the compressor inlet. Grab the compressor wheel nut with your thumb and forefinger and try to wiggle it up and down, side to side, and in and out. Any in-out play means the turbo is shot. Any noticeable side-side or up-down play also is a bad sign.

What kind of turbo is it? Is it a knock-off, by any chance? Can you post a pic of it?

If it's the turbo, the only fix is to replace the turbo. You could TRY sending it off to be rebuilt/rebalanced, but that would take a while, and I haven't heard too many great things about rebuilt turbos.

 

[BUCK]

Does the headache continue? - SADLY the answer is YES if you don't bite the bullet & spend a BUNCH of money on a 1995 TURBO AWD if your goal is to have it as RELIABLE transportation - If your not ready for that - Sell it - These cars are MERCILLESS & very much NOT suited for someone on limited means requiring RELIABLE transportation - the lack of $100 or $500 will cost you $4000 in a freaking HEARTBEAT~!

 

[MountainDew]

I'm 99% sure your turbo is shot. To test, take off the intake hose/pipe and stick your fingers into the compressor inlet. Grab the compressor wheel nut with your thumb and forefinger and try to wiggle it up and down, side to side, and in and out. Any in-out play means the turbo is shot. Any noticeable side-side or up-down play also is a bad sign.

What kind of turbo is it? Is it a knock-off, by any chance? Can you post a pic of it?

If it's the turbo, the only fix is to replace the turbo. You could TRY sending it off to be rebuilt/rebalanced, but that would take a while, and I haven't heard too many great things about rebuilt turbos.

There is hardly any shaft play.. It moves a little bit up and down but no In-Out shaftplay. It's a "brand new" T-25.

If it's the turbo, I think I'll just live with it for a while and slap a 16g on it.

Also I have a small oil leak from the oil lines. I noticed the metal one with coils (Return line?) has oil on it and is kinda dented up..

I wouldn't really mind if the turbo is shot.. I could still sell it for a decent price and just upgrade it. Of course I'd have to wait until I get a paycheck or two once I start working in a week.

I'll check again for shaft play. I think I'll unbolt the turbo from the 02 housing and disconnect all the lines. Probably try and get new lines for it and inspect the turbo. Is there a way I could take the housing off and check for anything to see if it's blown? I probably need to replace the 02 gasket anyways, my gasket kit came with one.

 

[numlock666]

on the entire turbine shaft, near the turbine side is a piston ring sorta thing that seals oil from the turbine housing. Five bucks says thats shot. I know, mu 14b is that way right now, it will boost, and god it boosts nicely but just when I go to shift is when everyone behind me disappears . Not too worried, getting a 16G next week. Also would look into that kinked return line. My 7bolt return line was pretty banged up but didn't look to bad from outside, but when I took it off to replace that last trace of a 7bolt with a 6bolt return line, I looked inside and the it was choked down to half flow.

 

[MountainDew]

on the entire turbine shaft, near the turbine side is a piston ring sorta thing that seals oil from the turbine housing. Five bucks says thats shot. I know, mu 14b is that way right now, it will boost, and god it boosts nicely but just when I go to shift is when everyone behind me disappears . Not too worried, getting a 16G next week. Also would look into that kinked return line. My 7bolt return line was pretty banged up but didn't look to bad from outside, but when I took it off to replace that last trace of a 7bolt with a 6bolt return line, I looked inside and the it was choked down to half flow.

I'll look into it. I'm running out to the junkyards this weekend anyways. Probably get a new return line. Last time I was there, there was a seized turbo on a laser, turbine didn't spin at all. But I'm sure some idiot still pulled it off and paid the $50 for it..