Evaluate my build plans please

[deflator]

Ok, I have my 95 tsi awd running good, spiking to 14psi and holding 10 nicely. Boost leaks are in the process of being taken care of and I'm getting ready to do turbo and exhaust. This is my first turbo car so don't assume anything is too obvious

I have a bunch of questions however before I start the serious modding.

I bought a spare Big T28 Killer turbo with the car (a turbonetics turbo, Big 16G wheel in a custom housing that looks like a stock t25). It's used and is already connected to a ported manifold. I'm planning to swap the turbo out when I take it to the exhaust shop for them to make a 3" exhaust and leave it on stock boost until I do the fuel system

Goal: 320-350whp on e85
Plans:
1000cc injectors, fuel rail, Walbro 255HP Fuel Pump rewired, AFPR, SS fuel lines
DSMLink or KeyDiver chip
ebay FMIC
3" exhaust
And the usual supporting stuff

Question 1: Should I take the manifold and t28 apart? They weren't stored all that well, so I'm worried that some crap got into the turbo. Is it a good idea to take it apart and put it back together just to be sure everything is in spec?

Question 2: I have new manifold and o2 housing gaskets/bolts, do I need any other bolts for the turbo swap and will I need any new lines/hoses?

Question 3: I can't decide between Link or KeyDiver. I have a spare laptop and a spare PDA for a logger, so all things are about equal. I have no experience tuning whatsoever, so I'm leaning toward the KeyDiver. Plus its way cheaper. Should I learn to tune and invest in Link and a wideband or go the cheap route for now. Budget will be running low after I get the fuel system and FMIC

Question 4: I have a 2 gauge pod that I only have a boost gauge in. What other gauge is necessary?

Other than that, looking for any links, advice, and especially parts I don't know about that I'll need to install this stuff. Thanks

 

[Clutch GSX]

#3: If you have an EPROM ECU (a 95 should) then definately go with the link. If you dont have an EPROM then still go with the link. Its very user friendly and comes with a great forum at dsmlink.com. the people there are very smart and can help you learn how to tune. With link you can do a LOT more than with the keydiver. Also 1000cc injectors is way over kill if youre only planning on 350hp. Link will help you tune for those size injectors but it really isnt worth it unless youre planning on going bigger within a year or so.

 

[deflator]

#3: If you have an EPROM ECU (a 95 should) then definately go with the link. If you dont have an EPROM then still go with the link. Its very user friendly and comes with a great forum at dsmlink.com. the people there are very smart and can help you learn how to tune. With link you can do a LOT more than with the keydiver. Also 1000cc injectors is way over kill if youre only planning on 350hp. Link will help you tune for those size injectors but it really isnt worth it unless youre planning on going bigger within a year or so.

Starting out with a smaller turbo to get the basics. I'll probably go with a 50 trim in the future

 

[Mr Peepers]

Also 1000cc injectors is way over kill if youre only planning on 350hp. Link will help you tune for those size injectors but it really isnt worth it unless youre planning on going bigger within a year or so.

E85 takes much more fuel to support. Stoich is 9.765 compared to 14.7 for gasoline.

1000cc is not overkill and I don't see it mattering anyway if he's getting link.

 

[kenamond]

Question 1: Should I take the manifold and t28 apart? They weren't stored all that well, so I'm worried that some crap got into the turbo. Is it a good idea to take it apart and put it back together just to be sure everything is in spec?

Sure. Get new turbo/mani bolts and washers and a gasket, too.

Question 2: I have new manifold and o2 housing gaskets/bolts, do I need any other bolts for the turbo swap and will I need any new lines/hoses?

I'd replace the mani/head studs and nuts. Don't forget a new mani/head gasket and O2/DP gasket.

Question 4: I have a 2 gauge pod that I only have a boost gauge in. What other gauge is necessary?

If you get a WBO2 with a gauge, I'd put that there. Otherwise, it's a preference issue. I'd recommend a search, as you'll get the same opinions and rationale in a number of threads where the OP is asking "Which gauges?".

If you plan on upgrading the turbo in the future, make sure you minimize how many parts you buy twice.

 

[Mr Peepers]

If you decide to take the turbo apart, mark the orientation of the compressor/turbine wheels. If you don't put them back exactly how they were your turbo will not be balanced=shortened life.

 

[Clutch GSX]

E85 takes much more fuel to support. Stoich is 9.765 compared to 14.7 for gasoline.

1000cc is not overkill and I don't see it mattering anyway if he's getting link.

Whoops. Must have missed the E85 part

 

[kenamond]

And if you just pull the turbine housing off the center section, put a scribe mark on both so that you can clock it correctly when you reassemble.

But if you just want to see the turbine wheel and make sure nothing is hiding down in the turbine housing, you can do that without separating the center section and turbine housing.

 

[deflator]

Thanks for the replies guys. I think I'll just leave the turbo together, that sounds real complicated. I'll take it off the ported mani for sure though.

I have another question I can't find clear answers to, do I need new oil feed/return lines?

 

[deflator]

Ok guys, I can't decide on this. Should I get DSMLink before I put the turbo on if I plan to leave it on stock boost for the time being? I recall reading something that you need to be able to log knock if you swap the turbo, regardless of boost level.

 

[kenamond]

Ok guys, I can't decide on this. Should I get DSMLink before I put the turbo on if I plan to leave it on stock boost for the time being? I recall reading something that you need to be able to log knock if you swap the turbo, regardless of boost level.

If you have some other way to log your timing, you can determine if you're knocking. But part of me is thinking "get DSMlink before you change your mind!" But you shouldn't need DSMlink at stock boost. Logging at stock boost just provides a sanity check.

And pulling the turbine housing off the turbo is really no big deal as long as you mark the orientation of the two relative to each other. But if you have no reason to separate them, don't bother. Balance isn't an issue unless you pull the wheels off the shaft, and you'd be leaving them alone in that regard if you just pulled the turbine housing off.

 

[deflator]

Thanks for all the advice mack. I'm just going to throw that turbo on with the exhaust, then get Link