To trade or not to trade that is the question!!!!!!!

[91talon27]

This is what the guy that has the car says about it. He says he has all the receipts to prove that all of this has been done in the last 6 months.

Some of the specs is it has a fresh rebuild done by the swap shop at 173k and it has 185k now. It was complete machined from the bottom to the top. It was a 3000 rebuild. It also got a new water pump and timing belt at the same time.

2nd Generation pistons
1st generation big rods
autometer boost gauge
AEM Wideband gauge
780cc injectors
255 lph wablro
Stainless steel fuel lines aeromotive Fuel pressure regulater
S-AFC 2 Tuned by the swap shop
EVO 3 Big 16g ported and clipped, just bought the turbo from Forced performance have paper work to prove it.
it has a act 2600 clutch in it.
brand new alternater
i just got the power steering leak fixed I bought a new rack and pinion.
it has a 2g maf and dejon intake pipe
it has a front mount intercooler with 2.5 inch custom piping.
turbo xs manual boost controller
I have done the rewire to the fuel pump
It has unorthodox racing pulleys on it.
2g ported manifold
i have a ported throttle body brand new you can tell

Here are the pics he sent me of the car.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p259/s13hatchback/5.jpg
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p259/s13hatchback/3.jpg
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p259/s13hatchback/7.jpg
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p259/s13hatchback/9.jpg

Now here are the specs on the Accord.
I have a 1996 Honda Accord Ex. It has new paint and new wheels. As in 1 1/2 months old. It has the F22B1 sohc Vtec with 209,000. But was rebuilt at 185,000 by the previous owner have receipts. I am the second owner of this car. Car has leather interior and a sunroof.
Now for the mods:
DC Sports 4-2-1 header
Greddy Sp2 catback
MSD 6AL ignition
MSD Blaster 2 coil
Short Ram Intake
Unorthodox Racing underdriver crank pulley
Koni Yellow struts
Eibach Pro-kit Lowering springs
DC Sports front upper strut bar
DC Sports rear upper strut bar
DC Sports lower rear tie bar
Neuspeed short shifter
New starter
New battery
Periphrial Ipod adapter
XM Satellite Radio
Alpine 6 x 9 in rear deck
Infinity Reference series speakers in doors and tweeters. Tweeters aren't hooked up.
Clear corner lights
Clear lower bumper lights
Clear rear side marker lights
Custom cleared rear turn signals.
17 inch Drag wheels with Hankook K106 tires.
Now for the pics of the Accord.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p259/s13hatchback/100_9948.jpg
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p259/s13hatchback/100_9947.jpg

 

[Street_Killer]

Id say get the dsm, but..... With that many miles look into getting a new tranny. Oh and look into getting a better way of tuning.

 

[TiradoCC]

get the talon and drive the shit out of it!!!!
Looks like a nice car man

 

[91talon27]

I forgot to add that he has receipts for the tranny rebuild also. How much power due you think that this car will have to the wheels? It is tuned at 16psi.

 

[Street_Killer]

Id say a good tune, (which is almost impossible to do with a safc on 750's) probably 245-295 depending on how good the tune. With that said you should'nt ask cause the number is too wide to give accurately. Not to mention all the other factors that play into this.

I say, you would be stealing this car from him in this trade if it really has all that done.

He already has everything to run a even bigger turbo. So you can be like all the other morons and stupidily put a bigger turbo on before anything else, except your doing it safely. Sell the pretty much new 16g for like 400 and buy nice sized turbo.

 

[bling5tatus]

wtf an accord vs. a talon.... get a tricycle... you'll be happier putting as much power to the wheel as you feel like putting to it at the time.

16psi can be 200hp if the thing is tuned like shit, there's no way of knowing that without a dyno, and unfortunately dsmtuners doesn't have a dyno built into it's interface where you can just plug in a boost pressure and know things like how much hp it will make. Sorry.

Oh, and go for the talon, you'll learn more, and you'll be happier in general... plus it's a theft deterrant becaus I'm not sure thiefs want to steal a car that's gonna blow up on them getting out of the parking lot.... where as the accords.... a little more likely to be victimized by theft.

 

[91talon27]

WTF wtf? All I did was ask a simple question if you don't know the answer then don't answer the post. I was talking about if I had the damn thing tuned at a shop what hp should I expect to be around? I am asking for a ballpark not a definate number. I know there's not a plug in dyno on here. But I don't see going to a shop and spending money on a tune if you have no idea of what hp the car should make with a good tune. Hell should I expect between 200 and 275 after a good dyno tune or possibly more that's what I'm trying to find out. Oh yea I'm not new to building cars just new to DSM's.


" So you can be like all the other morons and stupidily put a bigger turbo on before anything else, except your doing it safely. Sell the pretty much new 16g for like 400 and buy nice sized turbo. "

Did I say I was buying a bigger turbo? I am not doing anything to the car, if I even get it, until I learn the best parts needed to do it. I don't halfass any of the cars I own. I am not rich so I have to do it right the first time. I am not trying to get a 600 hp car. I am just wanting aroung 350-400 whp eventually. I know this may not even be close to the set-up that is needed for those numbers but, I will learn what it is that I need to acheive those numbers.

 

[Cs4g63]

Dude I would definately get the DSM. Unless you just want something to drive around and dont want to have to worry about it.

 

[meliketoball]

Talon all the way. That accord is weak. No offense.

 

[Street_Killer]

WTF wtf? All I did was ask a simple question if you don't know the answer then don't answer the post. I was talking about if I had the damn thing tuned at a shop what hp should I expect to be around? I am asking for a ballpark not a definate number. I know there's not a plug in dyno on here. But I don't see going to a shop and spending money on a tune if you have no idea of what hp the car should make with a good tune. Hell should I expect between 200 and 275 after a good dyno tune or possibly more that's what I'm trying to find out. Oh yea I'm not new to building cars just new to DSM's.


" So you can be like all the other morons and stupidily put a bigger turbo on before anything else, except your doing it safely. Sell the pretty much new 16g for like 400 and buy nice sized turbo. "

Did I say I was buying a bigger turbo? I am not doing anything to the car, if I even get it, until I learn the best parts needed to do it. I don't halfass any of the cars I own. I am not rich so I have to do it right the first time. I am not trying to get a 600 hp car. I am just wanting aroung 350-400 whp eventually. I know this may not even be close to the set-up that is needed for those numbers but, I will learn what it is that I need to acheive those numbers.

What I was saying is, people that dont have all those mods are stupid and get a bigger turbo before anything else. I was saying you could get a bigger turbo right now, and you are ready for one.... Dont get so damn affended, especially if your new.

And for the hp thing, theres no bench racing so read the rules before you get mad about that to. The only hp talk here is for what your goal is and what your dyno slip shows.

 

[toyotaturbo]

This, in my opinion is a no brainer. Go with the car that has the most potential. That would be the Talon, hands down. You stated that you're not all that rich (none of us are). You will spend considerably less money on the Talon to make it to your goal of 350 whp. Honda engines don't make the torque that 4G63's do. With what he's trying to trade you, there seems to be a lot there to already work off of. With the Honda, it's going to take you way more (money, time, parts) to attain your goal.

 

[91talon27]

What I was saying is, people that dont have all those mods are stupid and get a bigger turbo before anything else. I was saying you could get a bigger turbo right now, and you are ready for one.... Dont get so damn affended, especially if your new.

And for the hp thing, theres no bench racing so read the rules before you get mad about that to. The only hp talk here is for what your goal is and what your dyno slip shows.

Sorry about the misunderstanding about that. I was feeling like you all think I'm a moron and was just going to get a bigger turbo and turn up the boost and tear some shit up........ Yea I know a couple of local people that bought and installed a bigger turbo the first thing after they got there car. They didn't last very long. So do you think the mods the car has with a bigger turbo is capable with a tune of making the power I'm looking for or should I change some of the things that is already in the motor? Also how big of a turbo should I get? A 20G maybe? I have been reading about all the different turrbo's available and am still confused on that. Oh yea thanks for all the input and your help.

 

[Street_Killer]

For the hp goals you stated, I wouldnt worry about engine work unless it has bad compression or something like that.

Turbo wise, personally I wouldnt go with a 20g. Thats kinda old school now. Most people would go with a 50 trim(theres lots of variations), some would try and get that much from a 16g, but thats a long shot. First things first though. Get a eprom and a chip or go with a eprom and ds link, because tuning that big of injectors with a safc is damn their inpossible.

 

[91talon27]

For the hp goals you stated, I wouldnt worry about engine work unless it has bad compression or something like that.

Turbo wise, personally I wouldnt go with a 20g. Thats kinda old school now. Most people would go with a 50 trim(theres lots of variations), some would try and get that much from a 16g, but thats a long shot. First things first though. Get a eprom and a chip or go with a eprom and ds link, because tuning that big of injectors with a safc is damn their inpossible.

What all would I need for the ds link? Can I tune it myself or would I have to take it and have it dyno tuned?

 

[Boo5t_Addict]

To achieve 350 whp easily and reliably, an 18g is what I would go with. You'll have all the reliability of an MHI turbo, good boost response, and flow noticeably more than a 16g. Just not as much as a 20g. You will definitely need a better way to tune, and DSMlink can pretty much do anything you'll ever want it to. The biggest thing you need to do though, is learn how to tune with somethign better than an safc, get a logger (which you will definitely need, like, yesterday), and if there is an underdrive crank pulley on the motor, get rid of it and buy a stocker. The gains from less mass are not worth the increased stress on your main bearings. The crankshaft balancer is built into the stock crank pulley, and underdrive pulleys have no balancer to speak of. So basically, what I'm saying is, get a logger and a tuning device, a stock crank pulley, and learn before you upgrade. An 18g will be enough for 400hp with good spool, good response, and you can always clip/change to a larger hotside for another 450. Ask dsm-onster about his experiences with an 18g.

But, READ, READ, READ these forums. You need to learn to crawl before you can get up and run. You'll be so happy with the Talon, though, you'll sleep in it the first week you have it.

 

[Street_Killer]

To achieve 350 whp easily and reliably, an 18g is what I would go with. You'll have all the reliability of an MHI turbo, good boost response, and flow noticeably more than a 16g. Just not as much as a 20g. You will definitely need a better way to tune, and DSMlink can pretty much do anything you'll ever want it to. The biggest thing you need to do though, is learn how to tune with somethign better than an safc, get a logger (which you will definitely need, like, yesterday), and if there is an underdrive crank pulley on the motor, get rid of it and buy a stocker. The gains from less mass are not worth the increased stress on your main bearings. The crankshaft balancer is built into the stock crank pulley, and underdrive pulleys have no balancer to speak of. So basically, what I'm saying is, get a logger and a tuning device, a stock crank pulley, and learn before you upgrade. An 18g will be enough for 400hp with good spool, good response, and you can always clip/change to a larger hotside for another 450. Ask dsm-onster about his experiences with an 18g.

But, READ, READ, READ these forums. You need to learn to crawl before you can get up and run. You'll be so happy with the Talon, though, you'll sleep in it the first week you have it.[/QS

Seriously, please dont listen to him........

First off if you get dsmlink, you wont need to buy a logger, it will be your logger. Secondly, no one in there right mind would recommend an 18g. It barely flows more then a 16g and costs a lot more.

For dsm link, all you need is an eprom ecu and the dsm link package. You can buy it at numerous places. I dont have it but I guess its pretty user friendly and a good learning experience, not to mention a great way to get a good tune.


If you want to go a little cheaper, you can get the prom ecu, and go to dsmchips.com and get a chip. Personally I think it works great. Nearly a perfect tune with the chip. Lots of people are having good succes with them. Also you can use that safc you already have to fine tune. Then you wold need t buy a logger.

 

[polen]

idk id make him add cash to his car for the accord

 

[Boo5t_Addict]

Secondly, no one in there right mind would recommend an 18g. It barely flows more then a 16g and costs a lot more.

Barely flows more than a 16g? I think you seriously need to recheck that. If you wouldn't run it, then that's fine, but if it was really that useless, than why would it still be produced? It flows right in between a 16g and a 20g. I'm just trying to give a helpful solution. And you're correct abotu dsmlink logging, and him not needing to buy one, thanks for correctin me on that After only having 3 hours of sleep a night for 2 weeks straight, I'm bound to have a brain fart or two.

 

[1qkfwd]

Back on topic any time there is a chance to trade a Honda for any DSM jump on it. It gets costly to add a turbo to a none turbo car or engine swap it. At least the Dsm comes turbo and most of the time AWD(you didnt' say or I missed it whether its AWD or FWD). Go with the beter platform trade for the DSM. The question is what do you plan on using the car for?

 

[91talon27]

Yes it is AWD. If it wasn't I wouldn't have traded for it. I ran it at the local drag strip last weekend and ran a best of 13.91 @ 99.921 not bad. I think I'm going to go with Ecu+ for tuning. I like a lot of the features it has plus I don't need a EPROM to use it. It's a lot like DSMLINK but there are some differences. A buddy of mine alos uses ECU+ so if I runinto problems I can get him to help me figure it out.

 

[97gstjosh]

Welcome to the DSMer side ECU+ is a very good tuning tool I had it for a little while before I went over to DSMLink. Hope everything goes good for you and the talon. Who wouldnt do a trade like that even if it was FWD

 

[91talon27]

I owuldn't have traded for a FWD because I wanted a AWD or nothing......

 

[1qkfwd]

Never under estamate the good ole FWD. I have so much fun stomping EVOs and STIs in the local scene.

 

[91talon27]

Never under estamate the good ole FWD. I have so much fun stomping EVOs and STIs in the local scene.

I'm not under estimating them I already have had a FWD 1g Eclipse and I loved every minute of it. I just was wanitng a AWD because I have never had one and have always wanted one....... SO I personally wouldn't have traded if it had been a FWD. It is just a preference for me.