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Clutch Still Sticking (new master, slave, and ss line)

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mattdev

15+ Year Contributor
349
2
Jul 15, 2006
San Antonio, Texas
I'm starting to get aggravated...
My clutch first started sticking to the floor a few weeks ago, after months of being soft.
It had a new master and slave cylinder.
The slave seemed a little iffy so I replaced it.
That still didn't work, and found a leak in my hydraulic line. I ordered a SS Clutch line and installed it. This helped, alot. It is drivable!
BUT it will still stick to the floor about 1 in every 20-30 engagements. It has about 2 inches of freeplay until it starts to move the slave.

Now, a few questions, (noob status).

I'm pretty sure I'm bleeding right. Pump the clutch until no air bubbles come out. (submerged in fluid). If not, what am I missing.

If I am bleeding right, what else could it possibly be?? My slave is all thats left, and its in perfect condition.

Thank you so much
 
Ya, it pops right back up. It feels like air in the system. It has irregular pedal pressure and engagement points. All the symptoms of air, But I can't get it out. I'll try that out, thanks alot!!!
 
While bleeding....After you pump it until no air bubbles come out... do it about 10 more times and you'll probably see.. TADA! ... more damn bubbles :D

I'm pretty sure I'm bleeding right

Without a speed bleeder, it's kind of a pita to do by yourself. You need to press and HOLD the pedal, loosen the bleeder, tighten the bleeder, and repeat. I did it with a piece of wood holding the pedal down while I worked the bleeder... took a while and was a royal pain, but it worked.

BTW - make sure to keep the reservoir full or you'll just be circulating air instead of removing it.
 
Without a speed bleeder, it's kind of a pita to do by yourself. You need to press and HOLD the pedal, loosen the bleeder, tighten the bleeder, and repeat.

PITA for sure. So the common solution is to find a willing participant who knows how to follow orders of when to move their left leg :D. This makes the process a whole heck of a lot quicker then having to constantly move from the cabin to lower engine bay. So find a buddy to lend a leg for a bit. :thumb:
 
Allright, I tried doing it right. It helped a lot. BUT NOW it sucks in air somewhere. It gets worse after use. I noticed a collection of fluid under the reservoir. It seems to be leaking around where the rubber hose goes to the master. If it is leaking, it would be pulling in air instead of fluid, which sounds like my problem. I removed it and suction tested it (via my lungs) and it has a leak. Does it make sense that this would be my problem? Cheap fix if it is.

FYI the pedal only sucks to the floor if I play w/ the "no-engagement" zone. When I push and release lightly, before any fluid is transfered, is the only time the clutch sticks. It won't stick on full ungagements.

Oh, and about the slave being extended when it sticks.
The slave isn't extended when it happens. The car still stays in gear when driving and it sticks.

And one more thing, what about the possibility of "Pedal Ghosting". On the RRE faq the symptoms given could be part of the problem. Just throwing in options...
 
I'm not sure if you are jumping around under names but if you have 7-bolt, you should consider that your car has crank walk. :( Because the clutch sticking to the ground/floor is a symptom of the disease. Try taking really hard left turns and see if it still sticks.
 
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