some questions for 11's

[ridnlow]

new here to dsm's, but not the turbo scene. have a 90 gsx completed guited , big 16g, 2.5 dp wiht 3" exhaust, manuel boost controller, walbro 255, FMIC, SAFC II , 750cc injectors, AMFPR, Pocket logger, 2g maf, just did timing belt, oil pump, looking possibly for 11's with the car, have 1500 budget to spend to add to what I currently have, would like to stick with bolt on's before going into head or lower end, wondering if the transmission/ transfer case will hold up to a 11 sec car /mods? I was looking at balance shaft removal, HKS cams,an aftermarket intake manifold, cam gears, coil on plug, 50 shot nitrous,maybe going up to DSM link? thanks, also I only put in every tank race gas, no pump.

 

[FonZ454]

You said the car is gutted. gutted, WELL driven, race gas / well tuned 16g car should do 11's no problem. Just gotta make it all work.

 

[blackGSX2g]

If you are looking for cams on a budget, check out FFWDConnection. I picked up a set of DKS 264/272 cams for $350 for both and they work great. Same exact grind as the HKS 264/272.

 

[Loewen21]

I would reccommend brian crower cams. Great price and great quality.

 

[BoostFrenzy]

if you want to run 11's, dsmlink would help. not only is it a full tuning device, but it also has some goodies like AntiLag that will help spool up your 16g at the line for one hell of a launch. as for mods, you shouldnt need new cam gears. the stock ones hold up fine. same goes with the intake manifold and even a throttle body. I'd go with cams (go big for big power) and a better intercooler. running race gas, you should see around 400hp at around 25PSI with a damn good tune. (again...maxing out the 16g at these levels) nitrous is tricky so i would be careful with it especially if you are already going to be running high PSI levels. the only thing after power for drag is suspension work. you want to get the most traction off the line so a really sticky tire with some soft sidewalls would do some great work on 60' times. stock suspension should do fine for now because it is so soft in the rear that it should squat and not give too much wheel spin. As for the tranny, making this kind of power will kill it sooner or later. as for the clutch...it is NEEDED other then that, you should be good to go.


Hope this helps you.

 

[dsm-onster]

To add to what you've mentioned, . . . keep in mind that if he squats, then he'll lose traction up front the its up to his viscous coupler to catch up and lock the front and rear. I've seen a stock suspension AWD burn the front tires for a few feet before everything locks up even w/ a small 16g and a CRAP tune. It's always a good ideal to evenly disperse the power w/ decent suspension work when running an over stock power level.

I'd get dsmlink (for the NLTS and antilag and 750cc injectors). And i'd get a decent set of cams. I wouldn't pay more than what fp cams cost. Get a set of FP2s or any other brand comparable for less. Defiantely a good clutch kit (PP and disk).

If you get close to your goal but not reaach it, try a $75 turbine wheel clip on your Big 16G. I've seen guys get some good results w/ their Big 16G compressor when doing a modest clip to the td05H turbine.

 

[BoostFrenzy]

It's always a good ideal to evenly disperse the power w/ decent suspension work when running an over stock power level.

I'd get dsmlink (for the NLTS and antilag and 750cc injectors).

You are correct sir, haha. Because if there is too big of a traction difference for too long between the front and rear tires (especially with such high power), you might just end up blowing a center diff. So proportional power distribution front/rear is important for the longevity of your driveline. Sorry i forgot to add that earlier as a con to stock suspension.

Those are the other 2 things i forgot to add for DSMLink. NLTS=no lift to shift. and this is the full functioning one. it maintains boost while shifting because you dont let off of the gas. so you kinda run like an auto because the compressed air doesn't flow through your BOV because your throttle plate is still open. And then indeed the ability to run very large injectors. Ive said it before and i'll say it again, the guys that run 800+cc injectors on a SAFC and a chip are quite talented. so this is not something the average joe should try and embark on.

Edit: and i almost forgot. be sure to change all of your fluids in the driveline. Your center diff, your rear diff, and even your transmission. Basically change as much of fluid in your car as you can so your car is getting the best lubrication and heat resistance.