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Setting Timing 1g...

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91TurboTalonFWD

15+ Year Contributor
258
0
Jun 2, 2007
Fort wayne, Indiana
ok couple questions here how would i test a block off the car? how can i test to see if its good or anything? I have a good head and i think i spun a bearing on my newer older engine but i have the origianl block and head from my car and the head is bad and i want to find out if the block is good so how would i do that? also when i put the block and head together how do you set timing???
 
Need...aspirin...to discern...cryptic writing...

Man, that was the most confusing post I've ever seen. Do us a favor and don't type in a hurry:)

And for what it's worth, most questions about testing blocks, and setting timing have been gone over countless times. A simple search wouldn't kill ya :thumb:

Here's a link to get you started:

Setting the Timing: http://www.plymouthlaser.com/timin.htm

Good luck.

:laser:
Eric
 
Sorry ill send some aspirin your way...

ok lets say i just put the head on the block and ready to put on the timing belt... how do i find out where to turn each pulley? do i just line up all the pulleys to their marks and slip the belt on?
 
Well it's not exactly THAT easy... the is a "concentric" (could be wrong) roller, it's either the idler pully or the tensioner pully... and you must set that thing properly when doing the timing as well. If you just "line everything up and slip the belt on" it wouldn't surprise me if you end up with bent valves.

Another VERY important thing to do is once the tbelt is on, use a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar/ratchet with extension and turn the crank "by hand" a couple times to make sure the pistons aren't going to hit valves... once you're confident of that it should be ok to try and start the motor. One of the stupidest things that you can do would be trying to crank the car before hand turning the crankshaft/timing assembly to check for correctness.

Can someone please clarify if you're looking in towards the driver's side wheel well, is the proper rotation to spin the crank clockwise or counter-clockwise? I know the manual says to never spin the crank one or the other, but I cannot recall which one is correct/incorrect.
 
None of you are understanding what im asking...

my pulleys are marked and so is my motor... when i am ready to put the timing belt on are the marks supposed to be lined up or do i just slip the belt on?
 
...more or less, don't blame me if you mess your car up.... that's the kind of thing you must be VERY sure on. I would find someone who's done it before and have them check over your work... but yeah, definitely hand turn the crank first before trying to start the motor.

I'd still like clarification on which direction the crank should be turned.
 
Make sure it's all lined up exactly after turning the crank a few times too. Also make sure that the tensioning is set correctly. If you don't set the hydraulic tensioner properly, the belt could easily skip teeth later and bend valves.
 
Man spend a few $$ pick up a service manual altermarket or better yet a factory one. About 95% of your questions will be in there and how to setup. The service manual should be the first bit of speed equment any DSM owner should buy and keep and use it as a bible for the car.
 
i hate reading books... i have the manual i like computers better so i figured id try here first rather then ###in it all up
 
Also, I cannot stress this enough. Use a straightedge when you're checking the cam gear timing marks. They can 'look' lined up if you're just looking at them with no reference, but they can be two or more teeth off. Which will lead to bent valves.

When viewing the square-drive hole in the crank from the driver's side wheelwell, always rotate the crank CLOCKWISE. The direction of normal engine travel. Rotating it the other way can cause some funkiness with the tensioner, and cause you to skip timing anywhere from immediately to a few hundred miles down the road.

The basic idea is to line up all the timing marks, then get the belt on. But the slack needs to be in one place (near the tensioner), and the belt needs to be taut on the others, or you may fall off a tooth. You REALLY need a Haynes or factory service manual to do the timing belt on these cars. There's a reason the t-belt is usually about $300-450 to have done at any respectable shop that know what they're doing in regards to DSMs.
 
Screw all of that im goign to buy a rebuilt engine i plan on keeping my car so im going to buy a rebuilt engine and get a warranty with it and its gonna cost me but i love the car so im going to do it the right way!
 
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