fuel rail help

[EDM95]

I have a leak on coming from my fuel rail it is on a 2.0n/t. I was wondering if the whole rail had to be changed? the leak is coming from the left side of the rail. on the end of the rail there is a plastic part conecting to the rail this is where the leak is.

 

[EDM95]

Ok i now know where the leak is coming from. The problem is the fuel pressure regulator. Now would i have to change the fuel rail or can i replace it. and how thank you

 

[flyinghighlm]

The fpr can be pulled off the rail. So no, just replce the FPR and it will be snug to tight but just twist it as you pull and it will pop out

 

[EDM95]

I will check it out see what happens.

 

[Cs4g63]

The good news is that if your FPR needs to be replaced they are easy to find in junkyards.

 

[EDM95]

I had orderd one and they sent me one for a turbo. I took it back and they told me it was the right one i was like no it is not this is for a turbo. then they showed me on there computer that it was the right one. i was like wtf so i got my money back and went to a more advanced place and orderd the right one. hopefully it should be here in a couple days and i hope it is replaceable. Because the repair book said it has to be replaced as a unit on a 95 2.0 n/t im not really sure yet.

 

[EDM95]

I had checked out the fr and the fpr is connected to it as one unit. so i was like wtf i called up mitsi and they told me that it has the 420a 2.0 n/t chrysler engine in it and the fr has to be replaced. so if someone can do a write up on how to replace the fr it would help out thank you.

 

[kenamond]

I had checked out the fr and the fpr is connected to it as one unit. so i was like wtf i called up mitsi and they told me that it has the 420a 2.0 n/t chrysler engine in it and the fr has to be replaced. so if someone can do a write up on how to replace the fr it would help out thank you.

My Haynes manual describes the process. Go pick one up. And it confirms what you said: 1995 N/T has integral FPR/FR. It's a pretty easy process to pull the FR. Just don't get sprayed in the face with gas like I did. Depressurizing the fuel system the way they tell you to doesn't seem to work very well. When you pull the high pressure fuel line out of the end of the rail, have it wrapped in a rag to catch the spray and subsequent dripping of fuel. It's a matter of removing a couple of bolts after that. But get a Chilton or Haynes manual and follow their detailed steps rather than just diving into it, or you may end up losing the spacers, dropping gunk into the intake ports, etc. Just realize it's one of the easier parts to replace; no big deal.

 

[boostnbuds]

first pull the relay for the fuel pump or simply disconnect it, then crank the engine a few time to releive all system pressure. then remove your lines(no spray guaranteed) remove the bolts that hold the rail down, you may have to disconnect the plugs on the injectors (label them to avoid any problems) the injectors themselves are held in by the pressure that the fuel rail bolts provide so they will all pop right out, what u should do while your there is get new injector seals. anyways 10 mins and you will have a fuel rail in your hands.

 

[EDM95]

How much do you think the fuel rail shoud cost?

 

[kenamond]

first pull the relay for the fuel pump or simply disconnect it, then crank the engine a few time to releive all system pressure. then remove your lines(no spray guaranteed) remove the bolts that hold the rail down, you may have to disconnect the plugs on the injectors (label them to avoid any problems) the injectors themselves are held in by the pressure that the fuel rail bolts provide so they will all pop right out, what u should do while your there is get new injector seals. anyways 10 mins and you will have a fuel rail in your hands.

I pulled the FP plug off, opened the gas cap, ran the car till it stalled, cranked it over a bit more until it wouldn't fire at all. Then I pulled the fuel line off and still got sprayed in the face. Like I said, that procedure doesn't always work.

To the OP, you could try www.mitsubishiparts.com. Probably a bunch of other sites out there. But I don't have any idea how much it should cost.

Edit: You can replace the injector seals/insulators like boostnbuds recommends, but since this is N/T, you don't have to worry as much about it. On turbo DSMs, the insulators are a common source of boost leak, and I'd definitely recommend replacing them in that case.

 

[kenamond]

Dunno if this link will work; it's pretty damned long. Anyway, $141 OEM 1995 Eclipse N/T fuel rail:

Link

 

[EDM95]

I talked to on the phone and they guy said it would be like $169 to get it replaced. Is this a good price or should i do it myself?

 

[Talesin]

If that includes the part price, $30 seems like a borderline fair amount to not have to hassle with it. If they want $170 just to replace it, parts extra (or labor extra, if that's the part price), screw them. It's easy, and worth that much to get gas everywhere and wait for it to evaporate.

 

[kenamond]

If that includes the part price, $30 seems like a borderline fair amount to not have to hassle with it. If they want $170 just to replace it, parts extra (or labor extra, if that's the part price), screw them. It's easy, and worth that much to get gas everywhere and wait for it to evaporate.

The site I listed above had MSRP as $169, so maybe the dealership was quoting the price of the part alone. Or maybe it was a coincidence that both have $169. And that's for a new OEM FR/FPR.

I think a junkyard would be cheaper.

Edit: My bad, that site had $176 MSRP. I need to lay off the crackpipe .

 

[EDM95]

Does any one know how many bolts hold the fuel rail. Where are they located and what size wrench did you use to remove them? thanks

 

[EDM95]

No one hmmmmm

 

[kenamond]

No one hmmmmm

Seriously, go buy a Haynes manual from your local Autozone. On a turbo motor, it's 2 bolts into the head, and I think it's 2 bolts for N/T, too. You have to unplug things in the way, too. Then the high pressure fuel line bolts to one end with 2 bolts. Since your FPR is built-in, I don't know what the other end looks like. Go take your wrench set to the garage, pop the hood, and find out what size the bolts are. You need to try to help yourself a bit more on this one. The fuel rail is a piece of cake if you just follow the tech article or Haynes manual.

 

[EDM95]

That is what i will do then

 

[EDM95]

so i removed the fr and it looks like the injector might have been leaking and not the fpr. Im not sure if it is the o ring or the injector. what should i do?

 

[kenamond]

so i removed the fr and it looks like the injector might have been leaking and not the fpr. Im not sure if it is the o ring or the injector. what should i do?

You can buy new o-rings for the injectors. They're a helluva lot cheaper than a new FR/FPR. Did you get the Haynes or Chilton manual? You would have had to pull the fuel rail to change the o-rings anyway. I got an o-ring kit for my car along with insulators/seals from the Mitsu dealership. I think it was $30 or something for the o-ring set, but this was for a 2g turbo. Search around or just call the dealership for a quote. Maybe someone on the forum knows if you can use hardware store o-rings; I don't know.

Unless the injector body is cracked, I don't see how it would leak unless it was the o-rings.

 

[Talesin]

O-rings age, and do eventually crack. RRE sells off new sets of four uppers and lowers for $12, IIRC. Usually swap mine out every six months to a year, as it's not hard to do, and prevents an unnoticed fuel leak from happening as easily.

 

[EDM95]

hate to bring this back up. But i have been looking for a fuel rail with the built in fpr for my 95 eclipse n/t 420a. I looked at junk yards they dont have them i called the dealer they told me they dont make that fuel rail any more. They only have the one with the replaceable fpr. what can i do where can i get one from? Help