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last minute things before I put on the new turbo

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airFS

15+ Year Contributor
98
0
Oct 9, 2006
Harrisburg, Pennsylvania
After months of waiting I'm finall ready to install my t-28. From what I read its a fairly simple and straight foward install. My only concern is being able to get the old turbo off and primeing everything correctly. Will it be easier if I take off my front bumper? I'll be putting on a different smic too. Any other suggestions would be appriciated.
 
You just need to take off your passenger splash shield to get to the intercooler, the bumper if you really want to get at it but its not neccesary. A t28 is a direct bolt on so you should be set in that department. As for priming the turbo, put some oil into the center cartridge and spin it clockwise with your fingers to get the oil circulated a little bit, you will notice that the compressor wheel gets very easy to spin then- when that happens you are good to go. Also, some people like to leave oil in the cartridge for a few hours/over night to make sure it seeps into where it needs to go, I personally do not think its neccesary because as soon as it sees oil pressure it will get into where it needs to be quickly.
 
You just need to take off your passenger splash shield to get to the intercooler, the bumper if you really want to get at it but its not neccesary. A t28 is a direct bolt on so you should be set in that department. As for priming the turbo, put some oil into the center cartridge and spin it clockwise with your fingers to get the oil circulated a little bit, you will notice that the compressor wheel gets very easy to spin then- when that happens you are good to go. Also, some people like to leave oil in the cartridge for a few hours/over night to make sure it seeps into where it needs to go, I personally do not think its neccesary because as soon as it sees oil pressure it will get into where it needs to be quickly.

I have never heard that method for priming a turbo. Most members, me included, disable fuel and spark and crank the car for 10 seconds, then let the car rest for ~1 minute, and repeat 3 times.

Depending on the SMIC that you have will dictate whether you have to remove the bumper. Are you using one made for the car such as Dejon or the Hahn sidemount? If so, then they are a direct bolt on and no bumper removal is necessary.

EDIT: Here is a thread that I posted up some pictures of torque specs in that helped me alot with my t-28 install. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=151006386#post151006386
 
That is how I prime a newly rebuilt engine, or after my car has sat for a winter. I didnt think you really needed to prime it like that, but hey it seems like a better way than I use.
 
What is the easiest way to disable the fuel and spark and wheres it all located so I'm not trying to figure it out after I get it installed. I'm also using a lightly used smic that practically looks brand new. I needed to replace it because my stock one has a hole in it thats big enough to stick my finger through.
 
I would go under the back seat and take of the 4 screws that hold the plate cover to gain acces to the fuel tank unplug the fuel pump and just unplug your spark plug wires and you should be good thats what i did,
 
I would go under the back seat and take of the 4 screws that hold the plate cover to gain acces to the fuel tank unplug the fuel pump and just unplug your spark plug wires and you should be good thats what i did,

Rather than pulling the wires and risking burning up a coil or shockin someone I would unplug the triagnel shaped plug in that goes to your coil packs, but his fuel pump idea will work just fine, or you could pull the relay.
 
I dont know if this is true or not, but I heard it's you dont have to really cut off the fuel just the spark. I'm guessing this is wrong if all of you are saying to cut off the fuel.
 
Take a ton of PB blaster to all of your bolts around the turbo way in advance. I did it to mine for about a week before I pulled my turbo, and there were no broken bolts. Replace the crush washers for the oil/water lines on the turbo. Most vendors have them. You may want to replace the turbo bolts, or at least replace the stud with a bolt. Some suggest replacing the washers also. As for priming the car, just pull the MPI fuse and crank the car. This is much easier than anything else I've seen suggested above. You may or may not need to remove the fan, but anything else is probably over doing it. Also I would just unbolt the o2 housing from the downpipe and remove it with the turbo and separate it later. It's much easier to get to the bolts this way and you can spray pb blaster on both sides of the threads. Just put it in a vice if you've got one. It's not hard. Good luck.
 
Spray the bolts down with PB blaster as said, especially the o2 housing bolts, if you run into problems getting bolts off, buy a small propane torch from the parts store and heat them up pretty good, that usually works. You can also remove both of your fans for more clearance, don't forget to drain the oil, and antifreeze before you start.....Inspect all of your gaskets and couplers when they are off, it would be best to replace them while you're in there. To prime the new turbo after your done with the install, simply pull the spark plug wires out, crank the car for a few seconds, repeat twice and you're all set. I
 
I hate to say it but what does PB stand for? Would WD40 work as well?

THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP GUYS. IT ANSWERED MANY OF MY QUESTIONS.
 
If you got a friend that can help you, When I put my new turbo on I just held the wheel and had my friend start the car and I waited a while then let go of the wheel, and gave it a little push and it jus took off.
 
the easiest way i found to disable fuel is to go into the fuse box under the hood and find the fuel injection fuse and pull it. it totally kills your injectors, i did this when i did my comp. test and had no problems
 
You can easily pull the blue fuse to disable spark + fuel, I think the name of it is motor or something of that nature, just look @ your fuse cover.
 
What is the easiest way to disable the fuel and spark and wheres it all located so I'm not trying to figure it out after I get it installed. I'm also using a lightly used smic that practically looks brand new. I needed to replace it because my stock one has a hole in it thats big enough to stick my finger through.


Pull the Crank Angle Sensor plug. Its on the engine by the timing belt ... close to the firewll side of the timing belt cover. After your reattach it when you want spark and fuel, reset the ECU to clear the CEL by removing the negative power from the battery for 2 minutes or so. Same method to do a compression test on 2G's. The ECU will not spark or inject fuel if the crank sensor does not register movement. No need to pull a fuse.

Downside however is that you reset your ECU (if you can't have a code reader to clear the code) and so it must relearn before it idles nice.
 
After months of waiting I'm finall ready to install my t-28. From what I read its a fairly simple and straight foward install. My only concern is being able to get the old turbo off and primeing everything correctly. Will it be easier if I take off my front bumper? I'll be putting on a different smic too. Any other suggestions would be appriciated.

Before you start taking things apart, make sure to disconnect the battery.

Good Luck w/ the install.:thumb:
 
What will happen if I dont disconnect the fuel? I just installed it today and every thing went pretty smooth but it took for ever because I've never put on a turbo. All I need to do is re-torque all the bolts, put in the fluids, and prime everything.
 
It takes all of 3 minutes to disable the fuel system. Just do it. There is no point in taking the risk to save 3 minutes.
 
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