Please help - Clarity - Clutch issues

[Puscifer]

Hey guys. I need a little help, i'm literally pulling my hair out over this situation. Here's the deal.

About a month ago I purchased a 97 eclipse gs-t. (i'm not new to the dsm world but it's the first 4g63 i've owned others were 420a's) The car has tons of mods, I'm still finding stuff out about it so my mod list in the profile is blank until i get a decent bit of knowledge and i can track some part numbers down for consistency. Here's the issue's i'm having to get on topic.

When I got the car it ran fine for the first.. 40 miles. I was told it had a clutch / master / slave freshly installed (and i installed a new master / slave myself via warranty )- Seen invoices for both labor and parts, so i'm going to trust the guy for now. Well, after the first 40 miles the vehicle shut me out of the gears, was in neutral and just refused to let me enter 1-5 / R.

Out of that, I noticed how ticky these vehciles are to bleed, so I bled the car about 4-5 times, pedal seemed to be better with the engagement / disengagement than before. I figured problem was fixed. Nuh uh.

Next issue I was having is I let the car warm up to operating temp, then drove it for about 5 minutes, after 1 small load to the system (about 3000 rpm) the clutch slipped up. Then eventually after it was drove another 5 miles (return trip) the clutch just slipped no matter what the load was. Yes, I mean first gear, 1100rpm, no movement. - So, I read more about our wonderful DSM clutch system.

Pump up? - I could see it. Adjusted the hell out of the top adjustment / master rod til the clutch felt perfect when pressed. Oh my, Same situation. But, I felt improvements. It'd now slip at 3500rpm instead of sooner then eventually wouldn't engage at all.

Rear Main Seal? Working on checking that at the moment. As I have no proper garage and a bunch of dirt to work around I feel uncomfortable about opening any motor up due to debris and just imagine all the sand / grit that could blow inside (shutter).

Seems to me the issue happens when the clutch gets warmed up or even full temp at that matter. Is there something I'm missing? Trust me, I've fully researched this situation as it's going to cost me 400 bucks to have the car towed to let the same guy work on it who ensured me the car is good running condition. So, 400 bucks is roughly the same labor to replace the clutch system and the RMS. Tsk. Stuck, lost and discouraged but damn, I love DSM's. Please if anyone can drop me a couple suggestions that may shine some light on something I'm missing. I feel as though I've covered just about everything so far. Thanks in advanced! Sorry for such a long posting but over detail is never a negative.

 

[mattdev]

This won't answer your question, sorry, but could save you from spending $400.

From what I understand you're paying $400 just for towing, or is he charging you $400 labor?

I JUST got Tipple A. For AAA Plus They give you 4 - 100 mile tows a year, and AAA Premier you get 1 -200 mile tow. as part of the plan. I believe its $95 for your first year, and $75 after that for Plus, and a lil over $100 a year for Premier. When you call to get it towed, just say it broke down and you're taking it to a shop.

If you don't already have it... Just a thought.

 

[kidrabbit84]

Assuming the clutch and cylinders were installed only 40 miles ago, then it sounds like your linkage is adjusted incorrectly. Master cylinders need to come back all the way in order to self adjust. With the adjustment rod turned out excessively the master cylinder can not snap back fully to reset itself. As you pump the petal the master cylinder keeps pushing the slave cylinder in farther and father thus releasing the clutch, thus causing your slip.

To see if the linkage is in the ball park, you need to measure from the firewall (passenger compartment side) to the eye of the yolk. This dimension should be about 4 3/4" to 4 11/16". I know it is a pain to get a ruler in there but you could probably cut a piece of wood or wire to that length to act as a gauge. Pull the pin out of the yolk before measuring, so the master cylinder yolk is not being held in place by the petal. Also measure from the sheet metal and not from the insulation/carpet. Why? See FYI.

Check that out then report back.

Adam

FYI- the factory has you set the length with the master cylinder out of the car. It states it you should have 4.8" from the flange that butts against the firewall to the eye of the yolk. So I assumed the firewall was .09 thick, subtracted the fire wall thickness, and rounded to 4.75.

 

[Puscifer]

good god man, you would think a requirement to having a 4g63 is being a rocket scientist! got it square man. thanks a ton for the measurements and information! needed to pull the rod to the pedal some more for the valve to release the pressure it seems.

- out of more information i noticed it was also considered "pump up". RRE has a nice writeup so i won't hog space. Thanks a ton.

and
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=261593