Oil Leaks

[gsxeclipse97]

OK well this is getting out of hand. I just replaced the gasket on the pan today and it is still leaking oil. the exact same way it looked before It seems to be rolling from the back of the pan in some place and comming forward. and then drops. It alot less now but it still comes out. Any ideas of what else it could be comming from. It didn't seem to be comming from the rear main seal because the flywheel is not covered in oil. I was thinking that i could get something from autozone or something like that to plug the leak. Do they make anything that would plug the leaks from the inside of the motor?

 

[gsxeclipse97]

Also would the removal of the balance shafts cause the oil pressure to be to high and cause oil to leak? I'm running out of causes here

 

[absolute_DSM]

Removing the balance shafts by just plugging the holes where the bearing and shafts were, would cause lower pressure. If you used the stubby shaft and bearing method, pressure shouldnt change. (to my understanding)

Do you have an aftermarket pressure gauge? If so, whats it reading?

Try cleaning off that side off the block and then starting the car to see if you can see where its coming from.

 

[gsxeclipse97]

Its coming out by the transmission and i cant pin point if its comming from the back or whats going on I do have an after market gauge but its not hooked up I'm trying to get a electronic one because the other one leaks to often in the car.

 

[brute]

When you remove the balance shafts, something must be done with the balance shaft bearings. If you leave them the way they are, the oiling hole will allow oil to spew out and cause a drastic drop in oil pressure when compared with before removal. If you pound out the bearings, turn them like 90*, and put them back in (blocking off the holes completely), you will have much higher oil pressure.

To relieve this excess pressure, you can port the oil pressure relief valve in the oil filter housing tree. There are plenty of threads on this, so just do a search of "port relief valve" or something like that.

High oil pressure can cause leaks, but more than likely, it just made the existing leaks more apparent. If I am understanding you correctly, the oil is coming out by where the engine and transmission meet? If so, that could be the rear main seal (behind flywheel in block). You can also try dropping the oil pan again, and make sure both the bottom of the block and the top of the pan are clean. Also, make sure the top of the pan (where it curls over to hold the bolts) is as straight as it can be. Get some Ultra-Grey RTV and apply it on the gasket when you put it on. Let the RTV set-up overnight, then try in the morning and see if it's still present.

 

[Cs4g63]

Its possible, if its not cause by the other things everyone suggested, that the gasket you just installed might be leaking again. It can happen when they are overtorqued or if they just happened to come with a tear in them that can easily be overlooked. I would clean it off really well and check it again. It doesnt hurt to do the free checks over again. Good luck with getting it fixed though.

 

[gsxeclipse97]

Its a syllicone(spelling) they shop called the mitsubishi place and they said that they would use that instead of the stuff you get from autozone or anyother places

 

[romeen]

Do they make anything that would plug the leaks from the inside of the motor?

I would highly recommend NOT using a stop leak product in your motor.

You mentioned that it is still leaking from the same place but less since the new gasket. This suggests to me that there may be a defect/warpage of the oil pan flange at that spot.

As was previously suggested, clean the oil off with brake cleaner. Then start the car and let it idle but don't drive it. Get under there and try to pinpoint the leak. If it is clearly coming from the oil pan gasket then you will have to redo it. When you remove it place it upside down on a table top to check for flatness of the flange. Also look for damage of the flange at that spot, sometimes it can get dinged.

Let us know if you need any tips on redoing the gasket.

 

[gsxeclipse97]

yeah some tips would be good He didn't a thick coat of that stuff from what i can see it looked thin to me and needed more

 

[romeen]

yeah some tips would be good He didn't a thick coat of that stuff from what i can see it looked thin to me and needed more

1) Make sure to clean both surfaces (block and pan flange) really well. Use razor blades initially. For the groove in the pan flange a Dremel with a SS wire brush works good. Follow up with brake cleaner. Give the block one last wipe right before installing pan as oil tends to drip down. If there is any oil present the RTV will not adhere.

2) You really don't need a thick layer of RTV. A 1/8" thick bead is generally enough. Any more and the ecxess will squeeze out. This may in turn get caught in the pick up screen and cause partial blockage. As previously mentioned, use the Permatex Ultra Grey. Don't forget to make a circle around the bolt holes.

3) To help to align the pan to the block you can buy 3-4 6mm x 1.00 studs. Put these in the corners before installing pan. These will keep the pan from sliding around and smearing the RTV. You can leave these in place and secure with lock nuts or once the other bolts have been placed you can go back and remove them and use all oem bolts. Your preference. I use 3 set screws with allen heads then remove them once pan is secured and replace with the stock bolts.

4) After applying the RTV I like to wait about 15 minutes before installing the pan. I will then use a 10mm deep well socket to finger tighten the bolts. I then wait 1-2 hours and then torque to specs. Do not add oil for 24 hours.

5) Some guys use RTV and a pre-made gasket. Mitsubishi doesn't recommend it but it has worked well for some. If you do this apply your RTV bead to the pan flange, lay the gasket in position, use a few bolts through the gasket and pan to hold the gasket in place and then lay another bead on top of the gasket. I'm not saying this is necessary but I have done a couple like this and it worked quite well. If the flange is slightly warped this may provide better results.

I have done 4 or 5 oil pan gaskets and never had a problem doing it this way.

Good luck.

 

[gsxeclipse97]

I'll print this up and give it to the shop but I don't know if they are going to let my car sit there for 24 hrs. not likely but I will do everything else See if that works out.