The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

I filled my mounts with polyurethane

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

SnowBird

15+ Year Contributor
527
0
Jul 9, 2006
Cleveland, Ohio/Tampa, Florida
i know I spelled it wrong but give me a break. I just took a chance and filled all my mounts with PL400 polyerthane, I do hardwood floors and I have a first hand expierience with it knowing its strong and shit and flexes like crazy. Some of you might think I wasted my time, but for $4.00, my engine is out and I figured it was worth a shot. I have an AWD, so after a few launches Ill bring this post up from the dead and let you guys know if it held up.:talon:
 
While were on this, what is the point of those motor mounts type and launching. What do it do for the car. I heard with them it gives you a stiffer mount and makes the car shake a little more. Also how the hell did you do that to your mounts. Inject it into the hole.
 
While were on this, what is the point of those motor mounts type and launching. What do it do for the car. I heard with them it gives you a stiffer mount and makes the car shake a little more. Also how the hell did you do that to your mounts. Inject it into the hole.

On my other car I bought some MM's used. Curing for the Windo-Weld is 3-7 days depending on the weather, so you need spares or down time for the car. It does increase vibrations, but is not nearly as vibrent as solid MM's. Launching in my FWD, I would get wheel hop, filled MM's decreases this.:thumb:
 
I dont know the actual rating of hardness for the PL400, but it flexes like 200%, so say a 3 inch piece will stretch to 6 inch before it snaps. Its strong enough that if you use it to affix a piece of 2 inch wide by 3/4 inch thick piece of oak flooring to concrete and let it dry it will split the wood in half before the PL400 lets go. Like I said, Iknow it will be better than stock, and so what if it flexes a little bit, Im hoping it hits a happy medium between stock and super stiff.

How much does the window weld stuff cost, and where can you get it at? I will consider this PL400 stuff sucks.
 
I dont know the actual rating of hardness for the PL400, but it flexes like 200%, so say a 3 inch piece will stretch to 6 inch before it snaps. Its strong enough that if you use it to affix a piece of 2 inch wide by 3/4 inch thick piece of oak flooring to concrete and let it dry it will split the wood in half before the PL400 lets go. Like I said, Iknow it will be better than stock, and so what if it flexes a little bit, Im hoping it hits a happy medium between stock and super stiff.

How much does the window weld stuff cost, and where can you get it at? I will consider this PL400 stuff sucks.

Napa $14.95 a tube ...good luck :thumb: BTW If you do use it, its messy. Try not to get it on you, it spreads like the plauge. Rubber gloves for smoothing it out are your friend.:)
 
Launching in my FWD, I would get wheel hop, filled MM's decreases this.:thumb:

Exactly! windshield wipers would come on, radio would cut out, and I chipped a tooth once:D ! All that engine rocking in the bay makes the wheel contact patch inconsistant.

I used the PL polyurethane adhesive in the caulk section of Home Depot. Gets rock solit and can take a 24 ounce hammer beating w/ out breaking. Just flexes SLIGHTLY and holds. It took 24 hours to cure. I put it on in layers to make sure it hardened properly (the center of the "goo" will stay soft if you put it on too thick. I paied 2 something for the stick and one stick will do all the mounts.
 
Exactly! windshield wipers would come on, radio would cut out, and I chipped a tooth once:D ! All that engine rocking in the bay makes the wheel contact patch inconsistant.

I used the PL polyurethane adhesive in the caulk section of Home Depot. Gets rock solit and can take a 24 ounce hammer beating w/ out breaking. Just flexes SLIGHTLY and holds. It took 24 hours to cure. I put it on in layers to make sure it hardened properly (the center of the "goo" will stay soft if you put it on too thick. I paied 2 something for the stick and one stick will do all the mounts.

I did the EXACT same thing...
They're are rock solid. I really had my doubts until they cured... Amazing for nearly 1/50th the cost!:thumb:
 
I read somewhere that you can use the prothane inserts as caps kinda and you seal the in with this polyurethane. DO you think it would be better to just fill the whole mount with this stuff or to do that. I don't care about vibration or any of that crap I want the best performance period without going solid. I have down time too as I'm waiting for money to finish my build anyway.
 
can u do the windo weld on old worn out motor mounts or would there be no purpose to do old mounts? also how hard is it to cut that stuff out if it doesn't go right so I could just go with some energy or prothanes?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2g auto shift inhibitor with plug
    2g auto shift inhibitor with weather pack plug. Price is shipped USPS. Message 702-741-6987
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale 1g Used 1991 Turbo Engine Control Harness, Auto, with ABS
    Used engine control harness for a 1G turbo, automatic with ABS vehicle, replaced any broken...
    • 19Eclipse90
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale '90 Laser turbo
    115,000 miles. Bought new, lovingly cared for. Very low miles in recent years, mostly in storage...
    • GregPLT
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g factory torque converter
    2g Auto GSX factory torque converter
    • pottersgst
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale JFH REAR
    JFH Auto LSD REAR
    • pottersgst
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top