Educate me: 4g63 2.3L Vs 4g64 2.4L

[Mexirican007]

If it was the same AWD car with the same mods which one would you pick and which one is more reliable?

 

[j_eclipse96]

If it was the same AWD car with the same mods which one would you pick and which one is more reliable?

So are you talking about a stroked 4g63 vs. a built 4g64? Or what?

I don't think its really possible for them to have the same mods. The 4g64 would have to be made turbo and converted to AWD, whereas the 4g63 comes turbo'd and has available AWD.

 

[1g_tsi_awd]

+1 ^^^^ We need more clarification...

 

[v2ner]

Just take a 4G64 crank and use a 2.0L, that is if you love 10K redlines.

 

[Cs4g63]

He means that he would install either a sroked out 4g63 or a 4g64 into the AWD. He wants to know which engine setup would be more reliable.

 

[j_eclipse96]

He means that he would install either a sroked out 4g63 or a 4g64 into the AWD. He wants to know which engine setup would be more reliable.

In that case I would say the 4g63, as you wouldn't have to dick around with the drivetrain to get it to work. That and built 4g63s are known to be quite reliable under high performance applications.

 

[1g_tsi_awd]

In that case I would say the 4g63, as you wouldn't have to dick around with the drivetrain to get it to work. That and built 4g63s are known to be quite reliable under high performance applications.

+1

 

[Cs4g63]

In that case I would say the 4g63, as you wouldn't have to dick around with the drivetrain to get it to work. That and built 4g63s are known to be quite reliable under high performance applications.

What part of the drivetrain would you have to mess with?

 

[boostedtsi0069]

Just take a 4G64 crank and use a 2.0L, that is if you love 10K redlines.

You can put a 4g64 crankshaft in a 4g63t with no problem just direct swap? And will it really redline at 10k

 

[Splitpi]

You can put a 4g64 crankshaft in a 4g63t with no problem just direct swap? And will it really redline at 10k

No, the 2.3L 4G63 (i.e. a 2.4L 4G64 crank in a 2.0L 4G63 block) does not due well at high RPM's. It makes nice oval shapes out of the cylinder walls which causes catastrophic failure.

However a 2.0L 4G63 crank in a 2.4L 4G64 block makes a 2.1L 4G64 that just loves to revved.

 

[dsm-onster]

Just take a 4G64 crank and use a 2.0L, that is if you love 10K redlines.

Stroked 63s have terrible rod to crank ratios. A connecting rod would fly through the block at that speed even w/ forged internals and arp hardware . Do you mean a 4g64 block and 63 crank w/ longer rods? then yes, perhaps... w/ the right build.

In that case I would say the 4g63, as you wouldn't have to dick around with the drivetrain to get it to work. That and built 4g63s are known to be quite reliable under high performance applications.

All 4G blocks and cranks seam quite reliable... All the cranks seam to take the same amount of enormous beating and all blocks are fromthe same casting from what I've heard... Where is the 63 more durable/reliable/stronger than to 64?

Bullets of what I can remember off the top of my head:

-A g4cs is a 6 bolt 2.4 version of the 4g64. W/ the same style "super duper" connecting rods as the first generation A 6 bolt 4g63. Also the crank seams to be the same style w/ less tendancy to crankwalk
-Straight unmolested 4g64/g4cs blocks have longer rods to match the longer stroke. Therefore it is more "rev capable".
-Straight unmolested 4g64/g4cs blocks have higher compression pistons, like the n/a 4g63
-G4CS = 90s hyunday; 4G64 = 3G Mitsubishi
-I don't think you need to modify the drivetrain. I am pretty sure the casting is the same as the 63.

I would choose a G4CS complete block w/ 1G 4G63 Head and Intake Manifold over a 2.3 4G63 w/ 1G 4G63 Head and Intake Manifold. Better rev capabilities, same stamina. No need to bore out that extra little .1 liter. In fact there is no need to go into the block at all, as the 6-bolt seem to handle 500+ whp quite well.

A 2.0 4G63 6/7bolt block can handle significantly higher rpms than a 4G64/G4CS, and rediculously higher revs than a 4G63 2.3.

However everything I have discussed is conclusions and changes can be made to make anything handle everything. Please see: Stroker Tech sub-forum. Read the entire God Blessed thing. And you 'll know what you want. There is a wealth of info. And everything that CAN be done probably has with respect to the stroker set up...

Many usually go w/ a stroker set up in 63 block because they're getting forged internals anyhow and that changes the potential hp output and rpm capability of any of the blocks mentioned.

 

[Mexirican007]

I am thinking of buy a vechile with the work done for me and go from there.....these are what I find in the FOR SALE ads on here

Take these two engine set-ups for a 4g64:

95 GSX
Engine:
2.4 4G64 Block
Hot Tanked & Magnafluxed
Balanced & Blueprinted
Assembled in clean room w a custom torque plate
by Mothers Machine Shop and Dowel pinned to prevent any possibility of crank walk
Wiseco pistons @8.8-1 compression
No oil Squirters
Bored .20over
Forged crower rods
Polished 2.4 crank
Removed Balance shafts
ARP rod bolts
ARP main studs
ARP head studs
Clevite 77 main bearings
Clevite 77 rod bearings
Ported head
1mm oversize valves
Cometic Head Gasket
Forced Performance FP3 stroker cams
Forced Performance Dual valve springs
Venom Intake Manifold
Dual 12" Spal Slimline Fans


Fuel:
880cc injectors
Walbro 255 lph high pressure fuel pump
Megan Racing Fuel Pressure Regulator


Intake:
K&N cone filter
4" dejontool intake pipe
1G 60mm Throttle Body
Custom 2.5" intercooler piping
24"x12"x3" Front Mount Intercooler
HKS SuperSequential Blow Off Valve

Exhaust
Ported 2g exhaust manifold
Precision SCM61 turbo
Punishment racing 3" O2 housing
3" apexi Downpipe
3" custom exhaust no cats
Megan N1 muffler w 3" inlet


Drivetrain:
Fidanza flywheel
SBR4000clutch
Shepard Racing rebuilt 5 speed transmission


Suspension:
Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs
Tokico Illumina Adjustable shocks
Front and rear tie bars
Symborski shift kit
B&M short shifter


Electronics:
ProfecB Electronic Boost Controller
DSMLink Version 2.5.2.21
Autometer Boost and EGT guages

95 TSI
Engine:
2.4L crank
Eagle Rods
JE-Pistons, 8.5:1
All ARP hardware (head, main, rod bolts)
Ported Cylinder Head
Stock 1g Camshafts
Unorthodox Ultra SS lightweight Crank Pully
Sheet Metal Intake Manifold
1g Throttle Body
2.5 Inch I/C piping
28x8x3 I/C Core with 2.5inch Inlet/outlet
Apexi BOV
Turbonetics T3 60-1 Turbo
-Stage 5 Turbine
-.63 A/R
-Super 60 Wheel
Tubular SS Exhaust Manifold
TIAL 38mm External Wastegate
2.5inch Custom O2 Housing
FULL 3inch Exhaust from O2 Housing Back
750cc FIC Injectors
Apexi SAFC
AutoMeter Gauges Mounted on dual piller pod:
-Boost
-A/F Ratio
Fidanza Lightweight Flywheel
SBR4000 Clutch w/3500lb pressure plate


TRE Stage III Tranny:
New high friction 1-5th synchros
New 1st-2nd hub & sleeve
New 3rd/4th hub & sleeve
New 1st-2nd shift fork
New 3rd/4th shift fork
New input shaft bearings
New intermediate shaft bearings
New needle bearings under 1st -5th gears
New oil seals
New synchro keys
New synchro key springs
New front differential shims
New heavy duty Neodymium trash magnet, oil filter and magnetic drain plug.
New snap rings, roll pins, end nuts, bearing shims.
Welded center differential w/ output shaft retainer
New input shaft oem
New HD intermediate shaft
New double synchro 1st gearset oem
New double synchro 2nd gearset
New double synchro 3rd gearset. close ratio
New double synchro 4th gearset. close ratio
New 1st-2nd steel shift rail w/ forged rail end
New 3rd/4th steel shift rail w/ forged rail end
Enlarged oil passages.


Suspension:
Tokico Struts on all 4
Eibech Sportline Springs

 

[j_eclipse96]

All 4G blocks and cranks seam quite reliable... All the cranks seam to take the same amount of enormous beating and all blocks are fromthe same casting from what I've heard... Where is the 63 more durable/reliable/stronger than to 64?

I don't recall saying 4g63s are more durable, reliable, or stronger than 4g64s. I said 4g63s are reliable engines built, and as you added, from the factory as well. I don't know much about the 64 block, which is why I kept my mouth shut about it.

What part of the drivetrain would you have to mess with?

I would assume he would have to change something to get the 64 to bolt up to the 2g AWD transmission, but like I said, I'm not familiar with the 64. Maybe dsm-onster can answer this.

 

[Mexirican007]

Stroked 63s have terrible rod to crank ratios. A connecting rod would fly through the block at that speed even w/ forged internals and arp hardware . Do you mean a 4g64 block and 63 crank w/ longer rods? then yes, perhaps... w/ the right build.



All 4G blocks and cranks seam quite reliable... All the cranks seam to take the same amount of enormous beating and all blocks are fromthe same casting from what I've heard... Where is the 63 more durable/reliable/stronger than to 64?

Bullets of what I can remember off the top of my head:

-A g4cs is a 6 bolt 2.4 version of the 4g64. W/ the same style "super duper" connecting rods as the first generation A 6 bolt 4g63. Also the crank seams to be the same style w/ less tendancy to crankwalk
-Straight unmolested 4g64/g4cs blocks have longer rods to match the longer stroke. Therefore it is more "rev capable".
-Straight unmolested 4g64/g4cs blocks have higher compression pistons, like the n/a 4g63
-G4CS = 90s hyunday; 4G64 = 3G Mitsubishi
-I don't think you need to modify the drivetrain. I am pretty sure the casting is the same as the 63.

I would choose a G4CS complete block w/ 1G 4G63 Head and Intake Manifold over a 2.3 4G63 w/ 1G 4G63 Head and Intake Manifold. Better rev capabilities, same stamina. No need to bore out that extra little .1 liter. In fact there is no need to go into the block at all, as the 6-bolt seem to handle 500+ whp quite well.

A 2.0 4G63 6/7bolt block can handle significantly higher rpms than a 4G64/G4CS, and rediculously higher revs than a 4G63 2.3.

However everything I have discussed is conclusions and changes can be made to make anything handle everything. Please see: Stroker Tech sub-forum. Read the entire God Blessed thing. And you 'll know what you want. There is a wealth of info. And everything that CAN be done probably has with respect to the stroker set up...

Many usually go w/ a stroker set up in 63 block because they're getting forged internals anyhow and that changes the potential hp output and rpm capability of any of the blocks mentioned.

Thank you

 

[dsm-onster]

I don't recall saying 4g63s are more durable, reliable, or stronger than 4g64s. I said 4g63s are reliable engines built, and as you added, from the factory as well. I don't know much about the 64 block, which is why I kept my mouth shut about it.

Oh! I thought that when you said "That and built 4g63s are known to be quite reliable under high performance applications" meant that meant that such was another plus over the built 4g64s. Sorry about that. I'm only trying to insure there's no misinfo spread based on my research. 'tis all

The 4g63 block can handle absolute murder!

 

[Cs4g63]

Stroked 63s have terrible rod to crank ratios. A connecting rod would fly through the block at that speed even w/ forged internals and arp hardware . Do you mean a 4g64 block and 63 crank w/ longer rods? then yes, perhaps... w/ the right build.



All 4G blocks and cranks seam quite reliable... All the cranks seam to take the same amount of enormous beating and all blocks are fromthe same casting from what I've heard... Where is the 63 more durable/reliable/stronger than to 64?

Bullets of what I can remember off the top of my head:

-A g4cs is a 6 bolt 2.4 version of the 4g64. W/ the same style "super duper" connecting rods as the first generation A 6 bolt 4g63. Also the crank seams to be the same style w/ less tendancy to crankwalk
-Straight unmolested 4g64/g4cs blocks have longer rods to match the longer stroke. Therefore it is more "rev capable".
-Straight unmolested 4g64/g4cs blocks have higher compression pistons, like the n/a 4g63
-G4CS = 90s hyunday; 4G64 = 3G Mitsubishi
-I don't think you need to modify the drivetrain. I am pretty sure the casting is the same as the 63.

I would choose a G4CS complete block w/ 1G 4G63 Head and Intake Manifold over a 2.3 4G63 w/ 1G 4G63 Head and Intake Manifold. Better rev capabilities, same stamina. No need to bore out that extra little .1 liter. In fact there is no need to go into the block at all, as the 6-bolt seem to handle 500+ whp quite well.

A 2.0 4G63 6/7bolt block can handle significantly higher rpms than a 4G64/G4CS, and rediculously higher revs than a 4G63 2.3.

However everything I have discussed is conclusions and changes can be made to make anything handle everything. Please see: Stroker Tech sub-forum. Read the entire God Blessed thing. And you 'll know what you want. There is a wealth of info. And everything that CAN be done probably has with respect to the stroker set up...

Many usually go w/ a stroker set up in 63 block because they're getting forged internals anyhow and that changes the potential hp output and rpm capability of any of the blocks mentioned.

Thank you for all of the very informative information.
I believe boostedtsi0069 and I were trying to accomplish the same thing by getting these guys to explain why they thought what they thought. That way it could be explained away like what you did instead of having misinformation floating around.

 

[Cs4g63]

I don't recall saying 4g63s are more durable, reliable, or stronger than 4g64s. I said 4g63s are reliable engines built, and as you added, from the factory as well. I don't know much about the 64 block, which is why I kept my mouth shut about it.



I would assume he would have to change something to get the 64 to bolt up to the 2g AWD transmission, but like I said, I'm not familiar with the 64. Maybe dsm-onster can answer this.

The 4g64 will bolt directly in place of the 4g63.

 

[98gsspy]

4g64s are not hard to make in to awd at all.

4G64 = 3G Mitsubishi

4g64 are also found in 2g n/a spyders