Hub/Bearing Knocking Sound?!?

[Chris004]

Hello, I have been trying to resolve this issue for some time now. On the front passenger side of my 99gst there is a "clunk/knocking" sound whenever I go over a hard bump at slow speeds. (Ex: going over a small speed bump or going over multiple little bumps). If the road or bump/speed bumps are smooth there is no noise. So I did some research and most of it pointed to a new strut. Replaced the strut, nothing happened. Then I was told the tie rod can cause this type of problem. I looked at my tie rod and it looked pretty worn out, so I replaced the tie rod... nothing happened... problem still exists. After doing some testing I came to notice movement of the tire rocking back and forth. While the car was on the ground, I grabbed the tire and tried rolling it forward and backward and noticed a very good amount of play. On the driver side, I did the same test and there was no play, it was solid. I was able to target the noise on the passenger wheel and it seemed as if it were coming from the hub/bearing/rotor area. What is the problem here? I need a final solution to this never ending problem.

Thank you,

Chris

 

[j_eclipse96]

Hello, I have been trying to resolve this issue for some time now. On the front passenger side of my 99gst there is a "clunk/knocking" sound whenever I go over a hard bump at slow speeds. (Ex: going over a small speed bump or going over multiple little bumps). If the road or bump/speed bumps are smooth there is no noise. So I did some research and most of it pointed to a new strut. Replaced the strut, nothing happened. Then I was told the tie rod can cause this type of problem. I looked at my tie rod and it looked pretty worn out, so I replaced the tie rod... nothing happened... problem still exists. After doing some testing I came to notice movement of the tire rocking back and forth. While the car was on the ground, I grabbed the tire and tried rolling it forward and backward and noticed a very good amount of play. On the driver side, I did the same test and there was no play, it was solid. I was able to target the noise on the passenger wheel and it seemed as if it were coming from the hub/bearing/rotor area. What is the problem here? I need a final solution to this never ending problem.

Thank you,

Chris

This is a common problem with all 2g DSM's. There is a factory recall on the passenger side ball joint. Take it to a dealership and get it fixed free of charge.

P.S. Don't put it off, either: http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180623

I got owned by Defiant back in my DSM noob days.. at least he said it was worth reading

 

[wret]

I would look at the sway bar end links.

 

[v2ner]

Wheel bearings will whine when they're shot. I don't quite get what you mean about the play. Do you mean when you rock the wheel back and forth side to side? If that is what you mean than your tie rod ends are shot. Did you replace the inner tie rod, outer tie rod or both?

 

[Chris004]

Ok, so 'j_eclipse96', you're sure this is the problem here? If its that easy and the ball joint is on recall excellent. Im going today to mitsubishi to check it out. So this couldnt be the hub right?

For 'v2ner'. On my test, the car was on the ground, no jacks. I put my hands around the tire and tried rolling it forward and backward. Turned is right then left like you would with a steering wheel. When I do that it makes that clunking noise and there is considerable play back and forth. The driver side is fine, solid, no noise, no movement. Its something behind the rotor. Something within that area.

I'm going to mitsubishi today to have someone check it out. Is there something I need to show in order to get the recall? If it even is the ball joint... im not sure.

Ill let you know.

 

[v2ner]

For them to do the recall, all you need is your VIN# to be visible. They'll just type in your VIN and all the recalls that were ever done to it will pop up. Keep us informed.

 

[j_eclipse96]

Ok, so 'j_eclipse96', you're sure this is the problem here? If its that easy and the ball joint is on recall excellent. Im going today to mitsubishi to check it out. So this couldnt be the hub right?

For 'v2ner'. On my test, the car was on the ground, no jacks. I put my hands around the tire and tried rolling it forward and backward. Turned is right then left like you would with a steering wheel. When I do that it makes that clunking noise and there is considerable play back and forth. The driver side is fine, solid, no noise, no movement. Its something behind the rotor. Something within that area.

I'm going to mitsubishi today to have someone check it out. Is there something I need to show in order to get the recall? If it even is the ball joint... im not sure.

Ill let you know.

My car had similar symptoms before my ball joint went. My car was on a lift, though, and the way they checked was to put your hands on the tire at 12 and 6 oclock, and try to move the wheel back and forth to check for play.

I'm no suspension expert, but it couldn't hurt to see if you had the recall done before anyways

If it turns out its not your ball joints, I would take wret's advice and check your sway bar end links.

Good luck.

 

[Chris004]

Ok, so I just got back from Mitsubishi. I told them about the recall, they got my VIN and looked it up. They said there were no open recalls for me. There was one in 2003 but for something else. Then they wanted to charge me $100 just to look at the wheel. Considering the money I had already spent on the strut and tie rod I passed on this. I need to figure this out on my own. I did the test again and I have to correct myself on what exactly is happening. When I try rolling the wheel back and forth it moves just like the driver side does but the only difference is the clunk sound. So both sides will move a little when being forced, but on the passenger side when you move it in a forward motion hard enough... you hear the clunk sound (metal on metal).

Later today I am going to jack up the car and do the 12-6 o'clock test. And ill look at my Haynes manual to check on the 'sway bar end links'. I may even try to record some video of whats going on. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for the help so far guys, I really appreciate it.

 

[Chris004]

Ok!! Well.!!.. after lots of research and not being able to find a solid answer I had no choice but to take it to mitsubishi for them to look at. They hooked up some sound amplifiers to target the problem. The problem they said is the 'Lower Compression Arm'. They said the part alone is about $270. The diagnostic, part, & labor all together would come out to $450 + tax. This is too much for my budget right now. My questions is... Is the 'Lower Compression Arm' the same as a 'Lower Control Arm'? Because if it is... I found one for $50 and I will install it myself. How difficult is this to install? It seems pretty simple and straight forward. Checkout this ebay listing...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/dsm-front-lower-control-arm-set-eclipse-95-99_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33583QQihZ018QQitemZ280105267346QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

What do you guys think?

Thanks

 

[Rippinstock]

Do you get the same noise during breaking? Because that would lead me to believe its your ball joints.

 

[wret]

Ok!! Well.!!.. after lots of research and not being able to find a solid answer I had no choice but to take it to mitsubishi for them to look at. They hooked up some sound amplifiers to target the problem. The problem they said is the 'Lower Compression Arm'. They said the part alone is about $270. The diagnostic, part, & labor all together would come out to $450 + tax. This is too much for my budget right now. My questions is... Is the 'Lower Compression Arm' the same as a 'Lower Control Arm'? Because if it is... I found one for $50 and I will install it myself. How difficult is this to install? It seems pretty simple and straight forward. Checkout this ebay listing...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/dsm-front-lower-control-arm-set-eclipse-95-99_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33583QQihZ018QQitemZ280105267346QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

What do you guys think?

Thanks

It's not a high-wear item but I really don't like to replace worn out parts with used parts. I think I would try some of the new ones on ebay before going with used.

As long as you have a method to separate the ball joint, the rest is pretty easy.

 

[Rippinstock]

I wouldnt buy a used ball joint throw in a new one and know that you'll probably never need to fix it again. Getting the arm off wont be hard like wret said but i would take it to a local trustworthy shop, say like a Napa. They would have the tools to knock out the ball joint and it woudn't cost you much to get done.

 

[Chris004]

Great! Thanks for the feedback everyone. Ill go ahead and purchase a new one as well as look into the installation process and ball joint removal.

There isnt a tool I can rent from Advance Auto Parts to do the job, is there? Ill check it out.

Thanks again!

 

[wret]

Many have gook luck with no extration tool at all. Just give the knuckle a good wack near the joint with a BFH. You can do the job with the standard fork which is quite cheap, if you don't mind shredding the ball joint boot. The best tool though is this one:

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[pickens]

I have the same problem on my gsx. Did you figure it out and solve it?

 

[pickens]

Found my problem. Its the ball joint in the Lower control arm. Dealer said recall was done in 2003 already and they won't replace it unless I pay.

 

[tenn-gsx]

Fight them on this. It is a federal recall due to an unsafe faulty factory component. They may have replaced it already but they replaced it with a mitsu part that was never revised or fixed in design. They are responsible for this again and again as long as you own the car. if you dont want to go through it though you can get noth arms for about 60 shipped brand new off ebay. They are oem replacements and i have them on my car with no issues. Easy install. took about an hour for me to replace all 6 front arms.