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So my cars finaly running, but...

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wolvee123

15+ Year Contributor
82
0
Nov 23, 2003
granada, South Dakota
So my cars finaly running, but...
I just did my head gasket, then alt, then Batt, then Ign. Modual, then finaly ECU. Each and every item had a effect on my car but now after I put in the new ECU there's a weird idle. I turned the Biss screw all the way in to turn down the idle, but it still pulsates. It goes from about 1100-1600 over and over a again. It does settle a little bit after it's been out of gear for a while but you can tell she's still pulsing up the idle.

Before you tell me it's my IAC or TPS, It doesn't do it with the old ecu only the new one.

Thanks
 
It wasn't good... I replaced my caps and it was still messed up. It would shut of and reset while i was driving. Clicking and stalling. But I just bought a brand new ECU from Mitsubishi dealer. I paid through the nose for a real warrenty, "life".
 
Could setting my idle without doing it the correct way with the jumper wires be reacting with the ECU and the IAC trying to bring it down/up?
 
hopefully here's your answer. on the back of the throttle body there's a small sensor... it's got a single wire coming out of it and it sends a signal to the ECU when the tb is closed...

page 6-16 of the Haynes manual for the car lists it as a "Closed throttle position switch"

that's what's wrong with my car now, the idle oscillates a little bit in exactly the manner you're describing. i unplugged the "CTPS" and while it idles higher, it idles steadily.
 
None at all? Hard to believe. And come on, der, if it's doing it with the new ecu but not the old. . . Get another ecu?

I bought this one from Mitsu, and at least this one keeps the car running. This one is brand new and nothing is wrong with it.
 
OK so I disconnected the "Closed throttle position switch" like Blue92 suggested and the idle was high while cold (like expected) but as she warmed up the idle dropped and it didn't have surging. Anyone know how to fix this? Thanks for your help...


WHat could I have done wrong with my mods? When I put the head back together I decided to take off the vacum lines, would that have anything to do with the 1 wire connecter thing going nuts? But onthe same note, it didn't do it with the old ECU.
 
So I'm throwing 3 longs and a short, which would be a 31. Which my manual tells me is a detonation sensor. Thats the knock sensor right? This couldn't be causing my eratic idle cause the code isn't thrown until the car is being driven. Am I correct in this assumtion?

PS that 12v busser is the coolest thing ever....
 
Good as new... maybe! Well I gounded out the sensor wires and reset my BISS and I don't seem to be having anymore issues. My code was being thrown because the plug on my knock sensor wasn't pluged in all the way. So now my WOT doesn't ping and it seems to be running a lot smoother. I do on the other hand seem to notice a little extra occilating when the fan kicks on but that could be due to the age of my alternator. I guess we will see what the outcome will be once It cools off totaly and it's started for the first time in the morning. Thanks for your help everyone.
 
She's perfect... Raced a Fox body last night, toasted him off the line but then it was dead even. Can't wait to dial in the car and finaly turn up the boost...
 
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