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recommended clutch, flywheel, and shortshifter

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deeez2g

15+ Year Contributor
42
0
Feb 12, 2007
Arcadia, California
my clutch is just about to die out on me so i need to replace it. i have an intake exhaust and i plan on upgrading to evoIII 16g turbo. this car is more of a weekend warrior than a dd. what is a good clutch and flywheel thats not too stiff. for a shortshifter i heard that b&m with symborski bushings are good, correct?
 
I have a B&M short shifter and bushings and I love it, the throw is unbelievably short and the whole thing just feels solid and its not too clunky even with the counterweight removed. The previous owner also installed an ACT clutch, I don't know what one, but its really stiff and the total disengaged to engaged movement of the petal is about an inch and a half. I've never had anyone be able to drive the car without stalling it the first try but at the same time I don't think it has ever slipped on me.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
probably the most popular choice these days is an act clutch w/ a fidanza flywheel. im gonna go that route but im gonna grab an ebay short shifter....same thing as b&m, half the price. theres a thread on here about them just search and youll find it.

*EDIT: heres the link to the ebay short shifter thread*

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=253115
 
This is what im going to do when my shepard tranny gets done. Act flywheel, Spec stage 3 clutch, and ebay short shifter, Extened slave cylinder rod, stainless steel lines. I previously had a spec stage 1 and love it!!
 
would stage one be too weak? are fidanza flywheels any good? i read in some threads that they can cause problems.
 
I'm getting a CF Dual Friction Clutch, (but act 2100 or 2600 are most common) and Fidenza Flywheel (my clutch slips like a mofo, w/ no cash!!). I also have an eBay B&M knock-off shifter. Works great for me.
 
After seeing my mechanics shred ACT clutch's just from launching it hard, I will not get one anymore. Along with the TOB failures. I would save up and get the devo tuning 7.25" twin disc. It has the feel of a stock clutch but grabs insanely hard. Not to mention the fastest shifting possible up to 10,000rpm. And can handle any power throughn at it.
 
what bushings go under the hood? where are they located? and how about exedy clutches? are they any good?
 
After seeing my mechanics shred ACT clutch's just from launching it hard, I will not get one anymore. Along with the TOB failures. I would save up and get the devo tuning 7.25" twin disc. It has the feel of a stock clutch but grabs insanely hard. Not to mention the fastest shifting possible up to 10,000rpm. And can handle any power throughn at it.

Thats interesting, and here I have only heard good things about ACT.
 
The shifter bushings I was talking about are in the car, under the shifter assembly, where the shifter plate mounts to the car. There are 4 corners to the assembly, but each corner has two bushings.....one on top that you can see, and one underneath it......

And, these bushings are not just rollerskate bearings that you can throw in, and I wouldn't suggest trying it...
 
This is what I run & would recommend 100%

Centerforce dual friction clutch (break it in properly)
Xact streetlight flywheel (~12 lbs vs stock 18 but not light enought to cause driveability issues)
B&M Shifter
Urthane shifter plate bushings
Ball bearings on shifter cable at tranny end (like skateboard wheel bearings)
 
I'm using a Centerforce DF 2500# and a Fidanza flywheel. Much better than the ACT 2100 I used to have, especially in traffic. It grips harder, is easier to slip when you want to, and in general is just awesome. The down side is that you need to let them cool between runs if you go to a drag strip much, or they'll self-destruct. I use mine for canyon driving, and it kicks ass. It has the same pedal pressure as a stock plate, so no world's-strongest-leg syndrome.

Also already have the shifter base bushings and the underhood shifter cable bushings replaced with skate bearings.. they work great. You just have to take about an hour to calibrate your shift cables perfectly, and the shifting becomes almost surgically smooth. No short shifter for me, prefer knowing what gear I'm in with a touch, and no chance of over-extending a shift fork and breaking it (as short shifters without integrated bump stops are likely to have happen... our trannies do NOT have internal stops, and it's really easy to bone one by forcing it too far).
 
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