14b wastegate flapper Q

[always_broken]

I noticed my flapper doesn't seal the entire hole. I hooked a piece of vacuum hose to the wastegate nipple and put a cig. lighter air compressor to it. I figure it isn't that strong.The flapper vibrates but I manuall open it and it barely opens also. Will this affect spool up time? I plan on porting it...

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[c4uldr0n]

You could port it out and put a larger flapper on there to cover it up or you could buy a new exhaust housing for cheap too... either won't be too expensive

 

[boosting_laser]

Regarding the flapper not covering the hole:

Sometimes the flapper assy. pushes outward. Try tapping the arm, (where it pivots) in. It's either that or some of the material around the wastegate hole's fallen off.

 

[always_broken]

The arm is tough as shlt to move. I tried on the t25 and it's so easy. What gives?

 

[kenamond]

The arm is tough as shlt to move. I tried on the t25 and it's so easy. What gives?

If you mean that it's hard to move the WGA arm, that's because it's spring-loaded to hold the flapper closed until the WGA signal overcomes that preload. But if this is what you're talking about, it should be just about as hard with a T25 WGA.

If you're talking about turning the WG lever on the housing, it will be very hard with the WGA arm still attached but should turn freely with the arm disconnected. If it's binding there, you may creep (if it's not opening properly due to the binding) or you may spool more slowly (if it's not closing properly due to the binding) or both.

If there's a problem with the flapper that you can't fix, I agree that you should try to find a new housing; you'll have to (or should) pull it off the center section to port it anyway.

Are those cracks I see in the picture (two black lines in the housing radiating out from the flapper)? I can't see where the flapper isn't covering the passage. Hard to tell what's going on from the picture.

 

[always_broken]

I understand what you're saying. I just noticed a difference, with everything attached, that the wastegate arm is hard to pull out. Like manually opening the flapper. As compared to the t25 it really isn't difficult.

Pic isn't all that great, but where you see the two lines theres a gap half the size of a penny.

 

[romeen]

I understand what you're saying. I just noticed a difference, with everything attached, that the wastegate arm is hard to pull out. Like manually opening the flapper. As compared to the t25 it really isn't difficult.

Pic isn't all that great, but where you see the two lines theres a gap half the size of a penny.

The spring tension of the WGA on a T25 is designed to start opening the flapper at around 10 psi compared to a 14b which has a stiffer spring intended to start opening at approximately 12 psi. So yes, with the flapper attached to the WGA lever arm it should feel stiffer compared to the T25, but the difference should not be huge.

This gap that you mention, do you mean that there is a gap between the flapper and the seat where it normally seals with when closed? If so then that is a problem. It will slow turbo response and total boost output as it is, in effect, a pre-turbine leak.

 

[kenamond]

It's odd that the flapper doesn't align with the port. Perhaps the flapper shaft hole or the port weren't machined to spec. Regardless, romeen's right; that'll slow turbo spool. It's not going to limit boost in any practical sense, but it'll take longer to get there. If you can't figure out a way to fix the leak, consider getting a different housing - before you port. You can practice on the old housing if you've never ported. I practice-ported on my T25 housing before doing my FPB28.

So are those two black lines cracks? If so, they look HUGE, and I'd urge you to get a new housing.

 

[always_broken]

I've done research. The flapper does not cover the enitre hole, I've taken another picture which I'll be uploading later this evening. So check back into this thread for an update.

Can i buy a larger flapper? It seems that'll solve the gap issue. And I've read about putting a bike pump to the wga to see if it opens. It still bugs me, The wga arm is attatched to the housing, I can barely move the arm in and out of the actuator. When the wga arm is not attached to the housing I can move it a little easier, but still with some effor applied. Is this a good sign?