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exhaust help..

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dommk

15+ Year Contributor
36
0
Jan 22, 2006
Earth, Alabama
I'm in the need of a new exhaust, since my stock one is pretty bad(long story). I was looking at the Apexi n1 with the n1 downpipe and also the megan exhaust, downpipe and Resonator. With either of those combos, would i need anything else such as an o2 simulator or anything? car is a 98 gst....

thanx in advanced!:)
 
No, as lon as you get the one made for your car you don't even need the downpipe. Its all bolt together pretty simple. If you are getting the downpipe and exhaust I would recomend saving some pennies and get the turbo back exhausts.
 
The only way you'd need an O2 simulator is if the exhaust didn't have a bung for the O2 sensor. And even if it doesn't, you can always take it to your local exhaust shop and have them weld one in for you.

As pooker stated, as long as you get the right exaust pieces for your car, you'll be set to go. Although, I don't know if you have emissions or not, so that could be a factor in what parts you buy. Definitly want a 2.5" or 3" catback exhaust. A downpipe would also help, as would a high flow cat (diameter matched to the catback). If you don't need emissions, you can get a downpipe that eliminates the cat or just put a test pipe in place of the cat. Both of the downpipes you're looking at (the N1 and the Megan) are both cat eliminators, which means you would no longer be running a cat. Again, if you have emissions, get a cat! They're are a few pipes out there that don't eliminate the cat such as Buscher, HRC, and RRE. Those are just a few off the top of my head.

Hope this helps!
 
You won't need an O2 simulator unless you get an exhaust that doesn't have a hole for the O2 sensor. Even then, you can just take it to your local exhaust shop and get one welded in.

As for exhaust advice, there are a lot of factors.

Do you have emissions? If you do, then the downpipes you're looking at will not work because they eliminate the cat. If you have emissions, you could look at Buscher, HRC, or RRE, just to name a few, that don't eliminate the cat. If you have emissions but don't want to run a cat (other than for the inspection), you can get one of these downpipes and just substitute a test pipe in for the cat.

What are your power plans for the car? I see you have a 50 trim so I'd recommend doing at least a 2.5" downpipe and a 3" catback, if not a 3" turbo back system (downpipe, cat, and catback).

If you don't have emissions, I'd recommend looking into the Megan dp and catback system. Good system for the price as far as I've read. And all SS and polished.
 
You won't need an O2 simulator unless you get an exhaust that doesn't have a hole for the O2 sensor. Even then, you can just take it to your local exhaust shop and get one welded in.

As for exhaust advice, there are a lot of factors.

Do you have emissions? If you do, then the downpipes you're looking at will not work because they eliminate the cat. If you have emissions, you could look at Buscher, HRC, or RRE, just to name a few, that don't eliminate the cat. If you have emissions but don't want to run a cat (other than for the inspection), you can get one of these downpipes and just substitute a test pipe in for the cat.

What are your power plans for the car? I see you have a 50 trim so I'd recommend doing at least a 2.5" downpipe and a 3" catback, if not a 3" turbo back system (downpipe, cat, and catback).

If you don't have emissions, I'd recommend looking into the Megan dp and catback system. Good system for the price as far as I've read. And all SS and polished.
 
yea we have emissions but ill be moving to FL before i have to take emissions again, and where im moving to there is no emissions testing from what ive heard.
 
If you eliminate your cat then the rear O2 sensor may throw a CEL. An O2 simulator is one way to defeat this. But a MUCH easier and more inexpensive way (free!) to avoid the CEL is to:

1) Remove rear sensor.
2) Wrap it with several layers of aluminum foil so that the holes on the sensor body are covered
3) Use a single strand of small guage wire to wrap around the base like a twist tie to hold the foil on
4) Replace sensor

This has worked for me although you will need to occasionally replace the foil since the exhaust heat will break it down over time.
 
If you eliminate your cat then the rear O2 sensor may throw a CEL. An O2 simulator is one way to defeat this. But a MUCH easier and more inexpensive way (free!) to avoid the CEL is to:

1) Remove rear sensor.
2) Wrap it with several layers of aluminum foil so that the holes on the sensor body are covered
3) Use a single strand of small guage wire to wrap around the base like a twist tie to hold the foil on
4) Replace sensor

This has worked for me although you will need to occasionally replace the foil since the exhaust heat will break it down over time.


How is all that easier than spending a few bucks to set up the bypass? It only takes a few minutes and you never have to touch it again.
 
How is all that easier than spending a few bucks to set up the bypass? It only takes a few minutes and you never have to touch it again.

You're correct about the O2 simulator being a more permanent fix. But wrapping something in foil is undoubtably easier than cutting, splicing, soldering, insulating wiring while under the car. I never said the simulator is hard to do but clearly the foil method is easier. Plus you can just remove the foil if you ever need to return to the stock setup for some reason.

Both are viable options with pros and cons.:thumb:
 
They both have pro's and con's true,


But you don't have to go under the car to do the bypass..........the wiring harness is under the driver's seat.

True, in which case you have to remove/replace your drivers seat and partially pull up the carpeting.:p

Honestly, I'm not arguing that one is necessarily better than the other. As you pointed out the simulator is permanent, "set it and forget it" if you will. But I still maintain that the foil method is considerably easier (not that either one is particularly hard), we all have aluminum foil in the house and it's super easy to undo if you so desire.

Options are always good.:thumb:
 
True, in which case you have to remove/replace your drivers seat and partially pull up the carpeting.:p

No you don't. There's a oem slot already in the carpeting under the seat right above the rear 02 line grommet. Why? For the wiring that used to run to the factory amp.
 
sorry for the noob question but if you have a straight pipe where do you put the o2 sensor since theres not bung for it. tie it somewhere?
 
sorry for the noob question but if you have a straight pipe where do you put the o2 sensor since theres not bung for it. tie it somewhere?

The bung for the rear O2 sensor should be in that portion of the exhuast immediately after the catalytic converter or, in your case, the test pipe. If your cat back has no bung you have a few options:
1) Have an exhaust shop weld one in (cheaper than you might think). This will likely cause a CEL and ties in to what we have been discussing.
2) Wrap it in foil or some other heat resistant insulating material (I've been told the heating element gets quite hot) and zip tie it out of the way.
3) Use an O2 simulator as suggested above. This will allow you to cut the wires (where you will be splicing in your simulator) and remove the sensor altogether.
 
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