Slave cylinder issue...

[jessdogg]

well... i have a leaking slave cylinder. so i ordered a aftermarket one... the piston size was aprox. 1/8" difference. i got another one from somewhere else same thing. tried getting a mitsu slave rebuild kit. piston was same size. the piston off of the orignal slave cylinder was red and the one from the rebuild kit was blue, not sure if that matters. that is the only kit they offer through mitsubishi. the slave cylinder has not changed part numbers and i checked the differnce for them for fwd/awd, etc. the rebuild kit fits in each of the slave cylinders listed. they only show one slave cylinder push rod.

now the clutch is not being disengaged all the way with the new slave cylinder installed. but works fine with the orginal slave cylinder.

my car is a 1991 eagle talon 2.0l turbo awd. not sure if the slave cylinder was ever replaced or not. any ideas?

 

[oldman]

Follow the bleeding procedure exactly as prescribed in this article.

 

[jessdogg]

i didn't mean how to bleed the system... my question was has anyone had a problem getting the right slave cylinder? the bore is bigger in the both of the slave cylinders i bought so the piston doesn't travel as far with the new one.

 

[shaunman1979]

The bore is bigger by 1/8" ? What about the length of the cylinder how does that compare to stock? As long as it bolts up I dont think having a bigger bore on the cylinder is going to hurt you at all.

 

[jessdogg]

the length of the piston appears to be the same. since the piston has a bigger diameter, it takes more fluid to push the piston the same amount. so its not gonna get full travel. the only thing i can think of is maybe that slave cylinder is from something else and perhaps the pushrod is custom maybe. but its getting old ordering parts unsure if its gonna help.

 

[shaunman1979]

Well they do sell longer slave rods so you can try that, or you could try adjusting your clutch pedal. Thats where I would start and go from there.

 

[kronus]

Well they do sell longer slave rods so you can try that, or you could try adjusting your clutch pedal. Thats where I would start and go from there.

I've never myself looked at the differences in piston differences, but if a difference of 1/8th of an inch is causing that much trouble, I'd say you have some other areas of your hydraulic system to look at. Depending on whether or not the other items have been replaced recently, you have a few things to look at.

-New Master Cylinder
--This one will make a world of difference if your old one is dying/dead.
-New Slave
--Obviously you've taken care of that
-New clutch line
--If it's old enough, chances are that it can now swell and absorb some of the pressure you need to actuate the clutch.

I'd say take a look at those. And if you don't feel like replacing the Master (it's a PITA) or the clutch line, you should definitely COMPLETELY flush your system. Old fluid that may contain even a bit of water can compromise your hydraulics.

However, I would not recommend a longer slave rod. There is just enough travel in all aspects of the hydraulic system that you should not need a longer slave rod. Also, if your transmission is older than you can recall, you might want to shim the clutch fork pivot ball with a washer or two, and/or replace the Pivot ball and fork.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm