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14B flapper hole

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want_a_gsx

15+ Year Contributor
257
3
Apr 3, 2006
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Ok so I removed the turbo (14B) just now and noticed that the flapper does not cover the flapper hole completely. There is about 3-4mm uncovered.

Does that affect performance in any way? Is the turbo trash?

There is pretty much no shaft play what so ever, but when I spin the wheel, there is somewhat of a sound being made. Neither of the wheels are touching the housings. Its kind of a sound made when you are unscrewing a rusty bolt, any ideas? is this how it sounds when it doesn't have oil through it?
 
Ok so I removed the turbo (14B) just now and noticed that the flapper does not cover the flapper hole completely. There is about 3-4mm uncovered.

Does that affect performance in any way? Is the turbo trash?

There is pretty much no shaft play what so ever, but when I spin the wheel, there is somewhat of a sound being made. Neither of the wheels are touching the housings. Its kind of a sound made when you are unscrewing a rusty bolt, any ideas? is this how it sounds when it doesn't have oil through it?

If your flapper doesn't close completely you wont build boost as fast as everyone else with a closed flapper. It doesn't hurt the car to run it at low boost levels but if you get any higher than stock you're likely to overwork your turbo.... This is all if you even build boost at all AND if its not that bad... if its huge then figure out what to do...
On what to do... I would look for a larger flapper or have one made....or hell make one yourself. Cut the old one off and weld a new one on that seals completely. Why do you have such a gap in the first place?

What were you spooling at before you took it off?
 
He dosent need a new exhaust housing. I had the same thing when I just had my 14b out. There a little shaft that the flapper arm runs through to connect to the flapper, Tap that with a hammer lightly and see if it will move the flapper to the proper location. I dont know what would cause it to move out of alignment. My car had 280k on it so that might have a little somthing to do with it. Now if the flapper is burnt that is another story. Try that and see if it moves any. My car feels like it is hitting boost alot sooner now, Havent done too many pulls yet. Still going easy on new parts.
 
It was hitting full boost around 5K :barf: The motor had VERY low compression, so I figured thats why it hit boost so late. I ran up to 16.5 psi and it boosted fine just very slowly.

I will see if I can take some pics of the turbo today and post them up. Hopefully tapping the flapper into place works because I don't want to run the other turbo, since I have absolutely no supporting mods yet.
 
Thats the same story as mine. I was hitting boost way late. I have yet to do a boost leak test, to make sure there are no other things wrong. But on the ol' butt dyno it feels much better. Give it a little tap its not going to hurt anything just dont wail on it. Now just to clarify, does the flapper need to be pushed in (twords the back side) or pulled out? I just dont want you to make the gap bigger. Mine needed to be pushed in.
 
He dosent need a new exhaust housing. I had the same thing when I just had my 14b out. There a little shaft that the flapper arm runs through to connect to the flapper, Tap that with a hammer lightly and see if it will move the flapper to the proper location. I dont know what would cause it to move out of alignment. My car had 280k on it so that might have a little somthing to do with it. Now if the flapper is burnt that is another story. Try that and see if it moves any. My car feels like it is hitting boost alot sooner now, Havent done too many pulls yet. Still going easy on new parts.


Yes he might, if a crack developed into a bigger problem through time.
 
Ok yes you would need a new housing if you have a crack that gets bigger. What I was saying is he dosent need a new housing just because the flapper is out of place. Now if he has some monster crack that is the cause of all his woes hands down get a new housing.
 
Thats the same story as mine. I was hitting boost way late. I have yet to do a boost leak test, to make sure there are no other things wrong. But on the ol' butt dyno it feels much better. Give it a little tap its not going to hurt anything just dont wail on it. Now just to clarify, does the flapper need to be pushed in (twords the back side) or pulled out? I just dont want you to make the gap bigger. Mine needed to be pushed in.

Well I dont think the flapper needs to be pushed in or out. It seems as if it's shifted to the left side a bit. Having a hrd time finding the camera, but as soon as I do, I'll post some pics...

Btw, there are some minor cracks on the flapper hole, but from what it looks like, thats not the cause the problem. I will measure the flapper hole and the flapper to see they are the same size and to make sure that it's not the hole getting bigger because of the cracks.
 
Yea mine had some cracks as well. By what I have read they are pretty common. I think I get what you saying about it being to the left. If your looking at it from the o2 housing side (looking at the back of the flapper) it is off to the left? Thats just like mine. Tapping the shaft in will move it to the right putting it in better alignment. Just by looking at it you should be able to tell if by moving it it will cover the entire hole. Just look on the opposite side of where the gap is and see if there is that much over hang on the other side.
 
I am still not able to get some pictures but I did look at it and its definitely shifted to the right. I decided not to tap anything because I am unsure of what exactly I have to beat the hell out of so the flapper moves...

Can anyone post some pics showing what I have to tap?
 
Ok so about the grinding sound when I turn the wheel, I found out what it is. It's the wheel scraping against the sheetmetal guard on the exhaust side. There seems to be like dirt where the sheetmetal guard attaches to the centersectiol and seems to be sticking out a bit.

any ideas on how to fix this?
 
Whats the compression on each cyl.?

Cracks are normal same with 16Gs. I do know what you are speaking of. Se if you can move the flapper/arm assembly with your finger, or by prying with a screw driver, if it does move over the hole some does it stay?
 
If I remember right, compression was something around 120, 90, 15, 75. It went down everytime I checked it (over time), but that was the lowest it got to before the motor bit the dust.

The flapper is definitely not moving. Tried using a srewdriver to force it to move to the right side, so I can cover the whole. Didn't move one mm...
 

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