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electronic boost gauge problem

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thefakie25

Probationary Member
15
0
Sep 16, 2006
Tower City, Pennsylvania
Ok first i bought autometer C2 boost gauge (electronic) and it says to hook one wire to a 12v source which i spliced into the parking light wire and then the other which puzzles me is 12v source while cranking now i found one but i got a check engine light now (im not completely done yet i still have to hook the map sensor and tap into the regulator) wondering if that is the cause or if i possibly picked a bad wire to splice with but it was the only source that i could find that stay on while cranking...any suggestions :(
 
well, when i bought the car, it had the plain autometer boost gauge. sometimes when i press the brakes, the check engine light comes on, and then goes off when i let the brake out. i'm positive it is a bad ground, i would check the ground wire, if it has one, im not sure since i never installed mine, and havent had time to look at it figure out where it is comming from. Dont know if this helps, but good luck:thumb:
 
I bet you could just hook up the ground and then hook the power source to a switched source and you wouldnt have to worry about the other wires
 
I bet you could just hook up the ground and then hook the power source to a switched source and you wouldnt have to worry about the other wires

im not sure what you mean the check engine light lights up red instead of the orangish color like when you first start the car
 
im not sure what you mean the check engine light lights up red instead of the orangish color like when you first start the car
What I mean is......On a mechanicl boost gauge there is two wires. one is for the power source and one is for teh ground. With the greddy electronic gauges you have four wires.....1)power wire....2)ground wire.......3)ignition wire......4)parking light wire

OK, Really to get lights, you should only have to have connected the 12v power source and the ground wire. In Theory...

When you connect the 12v power source, make sure that it is connected to something that only lights up when you turn you lights on. Also it may not be a bad idea to get a painless wiring distribution block and save some troubles.

Like i said, Im not 100% positive if this will work, but in theory it should IMO.

-Kevin-
 
well found out what was triggering the check engine light i guess we wired it to a sensor and it was pissing the sensor off and making the light come on so we just wired it right to the ignition wire and it works perfect i think runs -20 vac and to like 11.5 boost think thats right for stock am i right thanks for the help
 
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